What are you guys doing on the modded M6 transmissions?
RSG is one that a few like
There's another I believe - Tick Performance?
I would really like to find a used M6 tranny to send out an have built... If anyone knows of one... Let me know??
I am running the McCleod 1200 hp clutch. Not a fan so far, but it hasn't slipped at current whp.
I've looked at the graphs.
If a person leaves their rear diff stock at 3.70
Would it make sense to run the 2.98 / 2.1 / 1.43 gear setups?
If a person goes to 3.90 rear diff - Is that too low?
I'm running 305/45/17 MT ET Street/r
2.98, 2.10, 1.43, 1.0 was my first Tranzilla and I ran it with the stock 3.70 rear and stock clutch. 2.85 upper, stock lower, Held 855 wheel for 2 years, had a 9.998 track pass with that combo. Built engine, Went to E85, 925 wheel, broke the 2.98 Tranzilla, 2-3 shift took the input cluster out. The 2.98 from RSG is only available in 4340 steel gear material, 9310 was recommended but it’s only available in the 2.66, 1.90, 1.34, 1.0 gear combo, went with it, liked 1 and 2 but didn’t like third, third was my on the street hard pulling gear, so I changed the rear to a 3.90 to get third pulling better, helped 4th as well but cut top end of 4th down to right at my 1/4 mph of 142-145, which is good for 1/4 mile stuff but not street roll racing as a 4-5 shift is required and you must be very careful with that as a 4-3 shift instead of a 4-5 shift will ruin your day and the Barton shifter centers very heavy on the 3-4 gate, even with a spring removed. I’m now on a +10 lower and 2.72 Litens upper and at 950-960 wheel now but torque up a bunch as that pulley combo makes instant 21-22 psi of boost on billet inlet plate blower with a port matched snout hogged out to match up to a 100mm BBK TB. But Spun the blower coupling soon after with that +10 2.72 combo so pinned the coupling, both sides, I highly recommend doing such as it’s the same as the crank, only held on by clamp load of the bolt head, no key way, so it’s pin it or spin it same as the crank. luckily the coupling hub is much softer than the rotor shaft and a new coupling hub fixed things. When I took the snout off the bolt head from the blower side coupling fell out onto my secondary blower blanket, the stock bolt is a grade 10.9 bolt, upgraded it to a grade 12.9 bolt, had a ARP bolt but the head is too high to use it. I sometimes take the rpm up to 7-7200 so I won’t go any smaller on the upper, the blowers on its hairy edge now, without a Killer Chiller the IAT’s are pretty high from spinning the blower that fast, you may run into a heat issue and timing pull from too high of IAT so you may want to start looking for a 2.7 blower, or a Whipple upgrade, or at the very least a inter chiller of some sort. Once you start getting close to 1000 wheel the game starts changing with how much $ each additional 50 hp is going to cost you.
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