[Searchman]

Hello all, I have a 2018 widebody ChallyCat A8 and just recently it started giving me an issue where when I'm driving if I go to get on the throttle or sharp turn where the power steering pump has to work, then my cluster guage, door controls and sometimes my headlights all lose power and then it gives me the "service active dampening system" message but the radio stays on just fine. None of the wires for the dampening system are frayed by the wheels, no fuses blown, and all connections at the fuse boxes, battery, PCM and ECU are all firm. I feel like it's an alternator issue but the car is only a 2018 with just 42k miles on it. All of this started of stop and go driving around town the other day. Any help thoughts are appreciated. Trying to avoid the stealership because I only have the power train warranty on their used vehicles.

 

[Blickie]

Hello all, I have a 2018 widebody ChallyCat A8 and just recently it started giving me an issue where when I'm driving if I go to get on the throttle or sharp turn where the power steering pump has to work, then my cluster guage, door controls and sometimes my headlights all lose power and then it gives me the "service active dampening system" message but the radio stays on just fine. None of the wires for the dampening system are frayed by the wheels, no fuses blown, and all connections at the fuse boxes, battery, PCM and ECU are all firm. I feel like it's an alternator issue but the car is only a 2018 with just 42k miles on it. All of this started of stop and go driving around town the other day. Any help thoughts are appreciated. Trying to avoid the stealership because I only have the power train warranty on their used vehicles.

Your battery is coming up on 4 yrs old and could be the issue. And yes, they can fail that quickly with zero warning.

What is the battery voltage just sitting still, engine off? Should be 12.4 volts.

If the above is good, put the start button in the Run Position, engine off. Bring up the Performance Pages. Select Battery Voltage. What is the battery voltage?

If all this is good, start the engine and again get back to the Performance Pages, Voltage. Bring the engine up to and hold at 1,500 RPM. Turn on the headlights high beam, fan blower on high and rear window defogger On.... what is the voltage?? Should be around 14.0.

 

[Searchman]

Your battery is coming up on 4 yrs old and could be the issue. And yes, they can fail that quickly with zero warning.

What is the battery voltage just sitting still, engine off? Should be 12.4 volts.

If the above is good, put the start button in the Run Position, engine off. Bring up the Performance Pages. Select Battery Voltage. What is the battery voltage?

If all this is good, start the engine and again get back to the Performance Pages, Voltage. Bring the engine up to and hold at 1,500 RPM. Turn on the headlights high beam, fan blower on high and rear window defogger On.... what is the voltage?? Should be around 14.0.

So after sitting overnight the voltage with the button in the run position was 12.3. I started the car and turned everything on, headlights, high beams, radio, internal lights, seat and steering wheel warmer, ac, and rear defogger. And with all that on the voltage read anywhere from 13.8-14.5. I noticed when taking turns the battery voltage would shoot up to 14.5 and back down. I tried to replicate the issue but as far as the doors and cluster guage losing power I couldn't get it to happen. I'm not sure if it's an issue at night with the active lighting sensors or what, but I couldn't get it to lose power or give me the dampening system check message just now during the day. I will troubleshoot it later again when the sun goes down, but this is a crazy issue...I just don't want my airbag deploying or power steering or anything to go out while driving.

 

[Blickie]

So after sitting overnight the voltage with the button in the run position was 12.3. I started the car and turned everything on, headlights, high beams, radio, internal lights, seat and steering wheel warmer, ac, and rear defogger. And with all that on the voltage read anywhere from 13.8-14.5. I noticed when taking turns the battery voltage would shoot up to 14.5 and back down. I tried to replicate the issue but as far as the doors and cluster guage losing power I couldn't get it to happen. I'm not sure if it's an issue at night with the active lighting sensors or what, but I couldn't get it to lose power or give me the dampening system check message just now during the day. I will troubleshoot it later again when the sun goes down, but this is a crazy issue...I just don't want my airbag deploying or power steering or anything to go out while driving.

Ok, the Voltage in the Run Position is great as is the voltage output with those accessories on is great as well. That tells me charging system is fine handling all those accessories @ 1500 RPMs. You might do an actual Battery Load Test (3 times the CCA value which is roughly a 300 Amps Load for 15 seconds) to see if the battery can handle that load and never go below 9.6 volts during the 15 second test.

No other mods, correct??

I'm still not convinced your battery is not the issue cause the charging voltage changes on turns. Are the cell plates shifting on turn?? Sounds like....

Don't panic about losing Power Steering. You can still always steer mechanically with more effort and focus.... not a joke.

 

[DodgeCares]

Hello all, I have a 2018 widebody ChallyCat A8 and just recently it started giving me an issue where when I'm driving if I go to get on the throttle or sharp turn where the power steering pump has to work, then my cluster guage, door controls and sometimes my headlights all lose power and then it gives me the "service active dampening system" message but the radio stays on just fine. None of the wires for the dampening system are frayed by the wheels, no fuses blown, and all connections at the fuse boxes, battery, PCM and ECU are all firm. I feel like it's an alternator issue but the car is only a 2018 with just 42k miles on it. All of this started of stop and go driving around town the other day. Any help thoughts are appreciated. Trying to avoid the stealership because I only have the power train warranty on their used vehicles.

Hi Searchman,
Sorry to hear you are experiencing this, we certainly understand why this would be concerning. If you end up addressing this with your local Dodge dealer, please let us know via PM. We'd be more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Rob
Dodge Cares

 

[Searchman]

Ok, the Voltage in the Run Position is great as is the voltage output with those accessories on is great as well. That tells me charging system is fine handling all those accessories @ 1500 RPMs. You might do an actual Battery Load Test (3 times the CCA value which is roughly a 300 Amps Load for 15 seconds) to see if the battery can handle that load and never go below 9.6 volts during the 15 second test.

No other mods, correct??

I'm still not convinced your battery is not the issue cause the charging voltage changes on turns. Are the cell plates shifting on turn?? Sounds like....

Don't panic about losing Power Steering. You can still always steer mechanically with more effort and focus.... not a joke.

I attached an image of the battery, I couldn't find an expiration date on it anywhere. I'll have it tested or just drop a better one in regardless, the cells could be degraded. I bought it used about 6-7 months ago from a dodge dealer out here in Texas, the car was shipped over from California. As far as mods, I have yet to do anything to it personally, I got under the dash last night to check the wiring and found a StarGard GPS to the OBD but so far that's it. The car is bone stock from front to back as far as I know. I did have the gas build up issue for the power steering a little while back but that's only happened once.

 

[Searchman]

Hi Searchman,
Sorry to hear you are experiencing this, we certainly understand why this would be concerning. If you end up addressing this with your local Dodge dealer, please let us know via PM. We'd be more than happy to provide you with an additional layer of assistance for that process.

Rob
Dodge Cares

Of course. If this is something the dealer can look at and fix for no cost I would have no issue dropping it off to them, they weren't too friendly last time I went up there. But I bought it as certified used and it only came with a power train warranty.

 

[Blickie]

I attached an image of the battery, I couldn't find an expiration date on it anywhere. I'll have it tested or just drop a better one in regardless, the cells could be degraded. I bought it used about 6-7 months ago from a dodge dealer out here in Texas, the car was shipped over from California. As far as mods, I have yet to do anything to it personally, I got under the dash last night to check the wiring and found a StarGard GPS to the OBD but so far that's it. The car is bone stock from front to back as far as I know. I did have the gas build up issue for the power steering a little while back but that's only happened once.

If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

 

[DodgeCares]

Of course. If this is something the dealer can look at and fix for no cost I would have no issue dropping it off to them, they weren't too friendly last time I went up there. But I bought it as certified used and it only came with a power train warranty.

Unfortunately an inspection by a trained technician is required to determine if something is going to be covered under the applicable warranty. If you end up addressing this with your local Dodge dealer, please let us know via PM.

Rob
Dodge Cares

 

[Searchman]

If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

I know it's late but I wanted to post before I forgot. On the drive to work tonight I was able to catch the voltage while driving and right before all the electronics go out the battery voltage is reading an overcharge. It was cutting out at 15.9 most the time but I got it on video and seen it go up to 16.4 ... could the alternator regulator be going out or is everything controlled though the PCM on these cars?

 

[Blickie]

I know it's late but I wanted to post before I forgot. On the drive to work tonight I was able to catch the voltage while driving and right before all the electronics go out the battery voltage is reading an overcharge. It was cutting out at 15.9 most the time but I got it on video and seen it go up to 16.4 ... could the alternator regulator be going out or is everything controlled though the PCM on these cars?

The PCM controls charging, but would not go there until you have a known good battery. The PCM has the Voltage Regulator & senses battery voltage and sets the charging rate. If the battery momentarily/intermittently has a poor internal connection & its voltage drops, the voltage regulator senses the drop & pushes up the voltage output to compensate. It's called EMF & Counter EMF.

Maybe the dealer could loan you one or you could borrow one from one of ur other cars.

You really have no idea of ur battery's age or it's history, i.e. accident.

EVERYTHING starts at the battery!

 

[Searchman]

The PCM controls charging, but would not go there until you have a known good battery. The PCM has the Voltage Regulator & senses battery voltage and sets the charging rate. If the battery momentarily/intermittently has a poor internal connection & its voltage drops, the voltage regulator senses the drop & pushes up the voltage output to compensate. It's called EMF & Counter EMF.

Maybe the dealer could loan you one or you could borrow one from one of ur other cars.

You really have no idea of ur battery's age or it's history, i.e. accident.

Yeah, I have no clue. I can pull it out later today and see if it's dated anywhere on the battery, I've just been busy with work. It's just crazy to me that only my headlights, doors, and cluster guage are affected and that the radio, A/C controls and steering wheel stay fine. Thank you for all of your input, I'll check the battery later today and keep you posted.

 

[Blickie]

Yeah, I have no clue. I can pull it out later today and see if it's dated anywhere on the battery, I've just been busy with work. It's just crazy to me that only my headlights, doors, and cluster guage are affected and that the radio, A/C controls and steering wheel stay fine. Thank you for all of your input, I'll check the battery later today and keep you posted.

I hear you & agree, but I am concerned about the voltage changing on turns & it's repeatable. That should not happen, ever! The whole car & its systems require a proper & stable battery voltage.

 

[Searchman]

I hear you & agree, but I am concerned about the voltage changing on turns & it's repeatable. That should not happen, ever! The whole car & its systems require a proper & stable battery voltage.

Just got it home and its idling at 16v and now it's killing my park sense, the dampening system, making my windshield wipers move up, and my windows act like I'm opening the door. Also when it spikes it drops to low 13v and the car feels like it misfires until the voltage normalizes....idk what the hell is going on. I called the dealer and made an appointment for Tuesday, but I don't have the funds to pay them so I don't I ever get the car back from the service dept.

 

[fltru103]

Sorry to hear of your problems. Having an expensive vehicle sometimes requires expensive repairs.
I have heard from several Challenger owners about a wiring harness issue that is shorting out when people use ( or have used ) the power tilt and telescoping steering column.
Someone else complained on the board, but never returned to say what their problem was.

power/tilt/telescoping steering colum has stopped working

my 2018 challenger hellcat widebody's power/tilt/telescoping steerng colum has stopped working in the worst position anyboby could every want. Anyone know off the bat which fuse it is, thank you!!

www.hellcat.org

 

[Searchman]

If there is no date on the top or sides, then obviously no way to know the age. You can see of it will pass a load test, but still don't like the voltage changing on turns.

If you replace the battery, consider an AGM H7. The H7 is the Police Version with a longer case and more CCA and capacity. Here is the P/N for the Police Hold Down Bracket you'll need if you go that way.

2006-2021 Mopar Battery Bracket 5112059AB | Steve White Parts

I did some troubleshooting before I go off to bed, but I pulled the battery and it's not dated, it is sloshing on the inside, I've never heard that before. But the bracket you linked is already installed however the hose I'm holding in the picture wasn't plugged in to the battery and I noticed there is a small hole on the positive side of the battery, should those be connected?

 

[Searchman]

Sorry to hear of your problems. Having an expensive vehicle sometimes requires expensive repairs.
I have heard from several Challenger owners about a wiring harness issue that is shorting out when people use ( or have used ) the power tilt and telescoping steering column.
Someone else complained on the board, but never returned to say what their problem was.

power/tilt/telescoping steering colum has stopped working

my 2018 challenger hellcat widebody's power/tilt/telescoping steerng colum has stopped working in the worst position anyboby could every want. Anyone know off the bat which fuse it is, thank you!!

www.hellcat.org

Thanks for the info, the steering column is unaffected however. It's basically everything else that's surging out, the A/C, both doors, cluster guage, interior and exterior lighting controls, and the wiper blades. The radio and steering controls all still work and I can paddle shift and move the column while it's power surging.

 

[Searchman]

I'll attach a link to a tiktok I made of it surging earlier on my drive to work today, you can see I was barely moving 10mph and it's just doing its thing.

 

[Searchman]

TikTok

vm.tiktok.com

Here's the link

 

[Blickie]

I did some troubleshooting before I go off to bed, but I pulled the battery and it's not dated, it is sloshing on the inside, I've never heard that before. But the bracket you linked is already installed however the hose I'm holding in the picture wasn't plugged in to the battery and I noticed there is a small hole on the positive side of the battery, should those be connected?

Yes, the elbow should be inserted into the hole exposed when you remove the rubber plug. There's a rubber plug on each end of the battery, so remove the plug on the backside/rear passenger side and then insert the elbow. This tube vents battery gases/gassing outside the trunk and is needed.

My belief is you will chase your tail until you test with a known-good battery. Then, you can properly diagnose.