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Got a CEL at morning and it went away by noon, do I still need to care about it?

9305 Views 43 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Tee pho
I'm new here with my 8at 16 Cat, yesterday morning(it's freezing cold outside) when I cold start the engine, CEL came up and there was a code P0EA7. I went to Dodge dealer and they told me my Auxiliary Coolant Pump needs to be replaced, and they give me a quote for 1300. After I drove for about 1 hour home, CEL disappeared by itself, but when I use the onboard diagnostic system to check code it still shows the code. What should I do now, go change the pump? or just go clear the code and see if the code will come back?
Thanks guys, I really need some advice:cry:
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A paste:

P0EA7-LTR PUMP PERFORMANCE

Theory of Operation
To improve engine performance the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) system is used to cool the charge air. The Charge Air Cooler (CAC) reduces the charge air temperature increase caused by the supercharger. The CAC system consists of an electric CAC Pump, Charge Air Coolers, Coolant Reservoir, Charge Air Cooler Radiator, Charge Air Cooler Coolant Temperature Sensor and plumbing. The CAC system operates independent of the vehicle’s primary cooling system.

The CAC Pump is a smart device that contains a LIN Bus communication module and a coolant pump. To maintain a desired charge air temperature, the PCM sends a pump speed command over the LIN bus to the internal CAC pump module. The internal CAC pump module controls the pump speed/coolant flow rate using Pulse-width modulation (PWM). The CAC Pump assembly monitors for internal system circuit and performance failures. If a fault occurs the CAC Pump module sends the fault information to the PCM through the dedicated LIN Bus. The PCM processes the information received, then sets the correlating fault.


When Monitored and Set Conditions
When Monitored:
This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met:



    • With the engine running.
    • No active circuit faults for the Charge Air Cooler Pump Assembly.
    • Charge Air Cooler Pump Assembly above a minimum calibrated threshold.

Set Conditions:


    • The PCM receives a LIN bus message from the Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump that the pump current is either much greater than, or less than expected at a particular rpm.

Default Actions:


    • The MIL light will illuminate.
Possible Causes
BLOCKAGE IN THE COOLANT FLOW
LOW COOLANT / NO COOLANT
EXCESSIVE AIR IS MIXED WITH THE COOLANT
CHARGE AIR COOLER COOLANT PUMP
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A paste:

P0EA7-LTR PUMP PERFORMANCE

Theory of Operation
To improve engine performance the Charge Air Cooler (CAC) system is used to cool the charge air. The Charge Air Cooler (CAC) reduces the charge air temperature increase caused by the supercharger. The CAC system consists of an electric CAC Pump, Charge Air Coolers, Coolant Reservoir, Charge Air Cooler Radiator, Charge Air Cooler Coolant Temperature Sensor and plumbing. The CAC system operates independent of the vehicle’s primary cooling system.

The CAC Pump is a smart device that contains a LIN Bus communication module and a coolant pump. To maintain a desired charge air temperature, the PCM sends a pump speed command over the LIN bus to the internal CAC pump module. The internal CAC pump module controls the pump speed/coolant flow rate using Pulse-width modulation (PWM). The CAC Pump assembly monitors for internal system circuit and performance failures. If a fault occurs the CAC Pump module sends the fault information to the PCM through the dedicated LIN Bus. The PCM processes the information received, then sets the correlating fault.


When Monitored and Set Conditions
When Monitored:
This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met:



    • With the engine running.
    • No active circuit faults for the Charge Air Cooler Pump Assembly.
    • Charge Air Cooler Pump Assembly above a minimum calibrated threshold.
Set Conditions:


    • The PCM receives a LIN bus message from the Charge Air Cooler Coolant Pump that the pump current is either much greater than, or less than expected at a particular rpm.
Default Actions:


    • The MIL light will illuminate.
Possible Causes
BLOCKAGE IN THE COOLANT FLOW
LOW COOLANT / NO COOLANT
EXCESSIVE AIR IS MIXED WITH THE COOLANT
CHARGE AIR COOLER COOLANT PUMP
but there is no check engine light on right now, does that means everything is good now?
Given the info that Rockster posted I'd drive the car for a while. If the code doesn't set again, the stored one will clear automatically after a certain number of start cycles. I don't know how many for these cars. In any event the code will not prevent driving the car, and no damage will occur. Probably the cold weather had something to do with a current draw outside the "expected" range. For sure I would not spend that kind of money at this point.
Given the info that Rockster posted I'd drive the car for a while. If the code doesn't set again, the stored one will clear automatically after a certain number of start cycles. I don't know how many for these cars. In any event the code will not prevent driving the car, and no damage will occur. Probably the cold weather had something to do with a current draw outside the "expected" range. For sure I would not spend that kind of money at this point.
thanks!
but there is no check engine light on right now, does that means everything is good now?
Can't make that call.

Possible Causes
BLOCKAGE IN THE COOLANT FLOW
LOW COOLANT / NO COOLANT
EXCESSIVE AIR IS MIXED WITH THE COOLANT
CHARGE AIR COOLER COOLANT PUMP


However, it doesn't appear like the fault can just pop because the engine controller is having a bad day.

I think you should consult with a professional tech. Now it may very well be he will clear the code and then direct you to drive the car normally and if the code appears bring the car in. But you should hear that from him, not me.

Based on the possible causes, before you take the car in you can at least check the coolant level to see if it is low or observe the coolant tank while the engine is running to see if you see air pockets/bubbles in the coolant flow or possibly no coolant flow.
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Can't make that call.

Possible Causes
BLOCKAGE IN THE COOLANT FLOW
LOW COOLANT / NO COOLANT
EXCESSIVE AIR IS MIXED WITH THE COOLANT
CHARGE AIR COOLER COOLANT PUMP


However, it doesn't appear like the fault can just pop because the engine controller is having a bad day.

I think you should consult with a professional tech. Now it may very well be he will clear the code and then direct you to drive the car normally and if the code appears bring the car in. But you should hear that from him, not me.

Based on the possible causes, before you take the car in you can at least check the coolant level to see if it is low or observe the coolant tank while the engine is running to see if you see air pockets/bubbles in the coolant flow or possibly no coolant flow.
Thanks!
Thanks a lot! My coolant level is normal. Also when I observe the coolant tank, the coolant level is definitely higher when the engine is hot, and after the engine cools down the coolant level turns back to normal. Does that mean my pump is working?
Thanks a lot! My coolant level is normal. Also when I observe the coolant tank, the coolant level is definitely higher when the engine is hot, and after the engine cools down the coolant level turns back to normal. Does that mean my pump is working?
The I/C pump tank is the small tank on the passenger side of the supercharger. It feeds the LTR Intercooler Pump located in the front bumper, driver side. If you pinch off the main line next to the tank, coolant will flow into the tank if the pump is on. The pump only comes on during certain conditions.

Based on the intermittent code, and dealership diagnosis, you likely have a I/C pump failure. After driving, what are your intercooler temperatures? If they are high (50+ deg above ambient), your pump has likely failed.

I just had mine replaced in December. The culprit is corrosion on the I/C pump connector. The P0EA7 code can be cleared to temporarily remove the check engine light, however, as the pump continues to fail, it will come back and remain as a permanent code in the PCM. The pump is part of the low temperature cooling loop that cools the intake air entering the supercharger.

You can buy the pump for around $700 (part #05181868AF) vs. the dealer price of $1035 + labor.

549218


Before and After
549219
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2
The I/C pump tank is the small tank on the passenger side of the supercharger. If you pinch off the main line next to the tank, coolant will flow into the tank if the pump is on. The pump only comes on during certain conditions.

Based on the intermittent code, and dealership diagnosis, you likely have a pump failure. After driving, what are your intercooler temperatures? If they are high (50+ deg above ambient), your pump has likely failed.

I just had mine replaced in December. The culprit is corrosion on the I/C pump connector. The P0EA7 code can be cleared to temporarily remove the check engine light, however, as the pump continues to fail, it will come back and remain as a permanent code in the PCM.

You can buy the pump for around $700 (part #05181868AF) vs. the dealer price of $1035 + labor.

View attachment 549218

Before and After
View attachment 549219
THANKS !!!
But my i/c coolant temp was never that high (50+ deg above ambient), my intercooler coolant temp is about 12-20 higher than the ambient, probably because of the cold weather here. That CEL was disappeared by itself before I reset the code. After the reset, till now no code shows up. I'll keep watching!
thanks for the part number and all the information!
THANKS !!!
But my i/c coolant temp was never that high (50+ deg above ambient), my intercooler coolant temp is about 12-20 higher than the ambient, probably because of the cold weather here. That CEL was disappeared by itself before I reset the code. After the reset, till now no code shows up. I'll keep watching!
thanks for the part number and all the information!
Another note to mention. Use the EVIC gauge to read the I/C Coolant temperature. The SRT Performance Pages has a glitch that mixes up the Intake Air Temp Reading and I/C Temp Gauge Reading.

I/C Coolant Temp will be less than Intake Air Temp. The info graphic in the link below helps explain it all.

Another note to mention. Use the EVIC gauge to read the I/C Coolant temperature. The SRT Performance Pages has a glitch that mixes up the Intake Air Temp Reading and I/C Temp Gauge Reading.

I/C Coolant Temp will be less than Intake Air Temp. The info graphic in the link below helps explain it all.

thanks that help a lot!!
Thanks a lot! My coolant level is normal. Also when I observe the coolant tank, the coolant level is definitely higher when the engine is hot, and after the engine cools down the coolant level turns back to normal. Does that mean my pump is working?
Not necessarily. Just means the coolant is expanding when hot and then shrinking when cool. This is normal.

What you want to observe is the the tank with the engine running -- assuming the tank is translucent which I think it is -- and look for any signs of something abnormal. I have to admit I have not done this and I can't tell you what normal looks like. But if you see air bubbles, air pockets or signs of abnormal coolant flow behavior -- the level going up and down quickly -- that's likely abnormal behavior and suggests a problem.
Its been a week and CEL or error code never shows up again after I reset the code, and the car runs normally the I/C coolant temp is pretty low all the time. does that mean I don't need to worry about this anymore?
today, I left the car with engine on for 25 mins, and the I/C coolant temp went up to 96F (outside is 35F) and stay there for another 5 mins. After driving for 10 mins the temp went back to normal. I'm wondering is that normal?
549410
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today, I left the car with engine on for 25 mins, and the I/C coolant temp went up to 96F (outside is 35F) and stay there for another 5 mins. After driving for 10 mins the temp went back to normal. I'm wondering is that normal? View attachment 549410
Normal I/C Coolant temp is about 15 degrees above ambient.
The I/C pump tank is the small tank on the passenger side of the supercharger. It feeds the LTR Intercooler Pump located in the front bumper, driver side. If you pinch off the main line next to the tank, coolant will flow into the tank if the pump is on. The pump only comes on during certain conditions.

Based on the intermittent code, and dealership diagnosis, you likely have a I/C pump failure. After driving, what are your intercooler temperatures? If they are high (50+ deg above ambient), your pump has likely failed.

I just had mine replaced in December. The culprit is corrosion on the I/C pump connector. The P0EA7 code can be cleared to temporarily remove the check engine light, however, as the pump continues to fail, it will come back and remain as a permanent code in the PCM. The pump is part of the low temperature cooling loop that cools the intake air entering the supercharger.

You can buy the pump for around $700 (part #05181868AF) vs. the dealer price of $1035 + labor.

View attachment 549218

Before and After
View attachment 549219
Maybe a dumb question, but if the cause is corrosion on the power connectors....could just cleaning the contacts solve the issue?
Normal I/C Coolant temp is about 15 degrees above ambient.
even the car in park with engine on and stay for 20 mins?
today, I left the car with engine on for 25 mins, and the I/C coolant temp went up to 96F (outside is 35F) and stay there for another 5 mins. After driving for 10 mins the temp went back to normal. I'm wondering is that normal? View attachment 549410
Have not spent a lot of time observing the I/C coolant temperature of my Hellcat.

But the rise in temperature from prolonged idling then the drop in temperature when you drove the car is behavior I would expect. But I have not bothered to observe the I/C coolant temperature in these circumstances using my car.

Sort of applies: Years ago when I encountered very high ambient temperature (116F) in a relative new car and I observed the coolant temperature gauge needle moving to the right into an area of the gauge I never seen it in before, and prompting me to check the actual coolant temperature with an OBD2 code reader/data viewer I carried in the car. Using this I found the coolant temperature was up to 226F and staying there even at freeway speed. I was concerned.

But the engine appeared to be unfazed by the to me high coolant temperature. I drove from southern AZ to KC MO with the engine not manifesting any signs of any issues. But I was still concerned and spoke with the SM at the local dealer. He took down my observations and questions and contacted the factory. In a few days the factory responded with essentially no CEL no warning light no problem. That the coolant temperature gauge needle had swung the right to a "temperature" I had never seen it obtain before was pretty much meaningless.

I would offer the same I guess in the case of your car. No CEL no warming light no signs of the engine manifesting any issues no problem.

'course, you are free to like I did ask the service department about the behavior you observed and hear what the service department has to say.
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Have not spent a lot of time observing the I/C coolant temperature of my Hellcat.

But the rise in temperature from prolonged idling then the drop in temperature when you drove the car is behavior I would expect. But I have not bothered to observe the I/C coolant temperature in these circumstances using my car.

Sort of applies: Years ago when I encountered very high ambient temperature (116F) in a relative new car and I observed the coolant temperature gauge needle moving to the right into an area of the gauge I never seen it in before, and prompting me to check the actual coolant temperature with an OBD2 code reader/data viewer I carried in the car. Using this I found the coolant temperature was up to 226F and staying there even at freeway speed. I was concerned.

But the engine appeared to be unfazed by the to me high coolant temperature. I drove from southern AZ to KC MO with the engine not manifesting any signs of any issues. But I was still concerned and spoke with the SM at the local dealer. He took down my observations and questions and contacted the factory. In a few days the factory responded with essentially no CEL no warning light no problem. That the coolant temperature gauge needle had swung the right to a "temperature" I had never seen it obtain before was pretty much meaningless.

I would offer the same I guess in the case of your car. No CEL no warming light no signs of the engine manifesting any issues no problem.

'course, you are free to like I did ask the service department about the behavior you observed and hear what the service department has to say.
Thanks that make me feels better
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