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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I live in Gibraltar (South Europe) having just moved from the UK. I'm in the market for a Hellcat Challenger. I have found one that is competitively priced, approx 6k miles and 2015, auto box. It is for sale in Europe, the dealer has informed me due to the low miles it hasn't been serviced. Are there any issues for Hellcats that haven't been serviced for this length? I'm hoping to fly out to view the car but was wondering if there is a thread already listing things to look out for, especially for cars that have been lightly used. Apologies for all the questions. I want to cover all the bases before I take the plunge.

Best regards,

Colin
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There wouldn't be any warranty as I will be buying it in one country and registering it in the UK or Gibraltar. I'm hoping to knock them down so I can get it serviced by a specialist post sale and get it checked over pre-sale.
 

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Hi Colin,

Welcome to the forum. I would first and foremost, try to obtain some car service records to establish the oil change history. As the owner’s manual states, oil changes are recommended at 6 month intervals or the relevant miles thresholds(whichever comes first). Check if the oil is clean or dirty. That would be a good indicator if the oil has been recently changed.

Test drive the car with the radio off and listen for anything out of the ordinary: loud rear end noise(rear differential), loud grinding whining noise from the supercharger, brake grind etc. These are some of the more common problems associated with the 2015-17 Hellcats. Anyways these cars are built like tanks, hopefully you found yourself a mint example.

All the best and keep us posted.
 

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Welcome to this great forum, Colin. What MuscleGarageLA said. Also, if I remember correctly, there were some problems with coolant leaking due to improper clamps. As an aside, I have been to Gibraltar and absolutely loved my visit. All those crazy monkeys on the "Rock" and hiking through the caves, simply amazing. Have a great day!!
 

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Colin,

There enough straight road there on the Rock to allow you to have fun with the car? Or will you have to head into Spain? Good on you for picking up the car. You'll love it.
 

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It is for sale in Europe, the dealer has informed me due to the low miles it hasn't been serviced.
Not serviced? Does that mean no oil changes in 4 years? If that's the case, forget it. SRT says minimum twice yearly oil changes.


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Hello everyone,

I live in Gibraltar (South Europe) having just moved from the UK. I'm in the market for a Hellcat Challenger. I have found one that is competitively priced, approx 6k miles and 2015, auto box. It is for sale in Europe, the dealer has informed me due to the low miles it hasn't been serviced. Are there any issues for Hellcats that haven't been serviced for this length? I'm hoping to fly out to view the car but was wondering if there is a thread already listing things to look out for, especially for cars that have been lightly used. Apologies for all the questions. I want to cover all the bases before I take the plunge.

Best regards,

Colin
No oil services and after 4 years (since it left the factory) and 6K miles... To me it is cars like this one that make me fear excessive ticking (or worse) as time goes by.

Up to you I guess. Be sure you give the car a thorough road test.

Let me paste something that might give you an idea of what you want to check for....

Used car check out:

My general advice is to visit the used car cold, open the hood and check the oil level, leaving the hood open. Give the other vital fluid levels a visual check at least to ensure none are low. With low miles this is unlikely but if vital fluids are low this could be a warning flag.

In the car start the engine. Be sure all warning lights come on and then go off once the engine has started. Pay particular attention to the CEL. Be sure the A/C is off. You test the A/C later.

Let the engine idle from cold. You want to listen for any signs of ticking/noises or any other signs the engine may not be healthy. A rough idle, backfires, spitting back, anything out of the ordinary.

If available, call up the Performance Pages app and view coolant and oil temperature and pressure and battery voltage. You want these displayed as you get first a test ride then have a test drive.

Get out of the car and walk around the car checking body panel finish, alignment, and gaps. Note the condition of the wheels, looking for any curb rash. Check the tires. Ideally they should be factory sanctioned tires and in good condition. Check the brakes, look at the rotors for signs of damage/excessive wear. A 1mm lip around the rotor outer diameter signals rotor wear close to replacement time.

Check the hood and trunk hinges for any signs the fasteners have had wrenches on them. At the front carefully check the radiator fasteners for any signs of wrenching.

After some few minutes of the engine idling -- the longer the better -- and with the engine still running ok and sounding ok have the seller take you on a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and chosen to give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. What is wanted is a mix of city driving with stop and go, steady moderate speed cruising on like a boulevard, and some highway/freeway driving. Ideally there should be some opportunities -- once the engine is up to temperature -- for some rather hard acceleration with the driver starting out from a standstill or a slow roll and accelerating hard up through at least a couple of gears. No need to smoke the tires or try to duplicate the factory's 0 to 60mph time but you want to experience the engine under hard acceleration to verify it pulls good, runs right, and afterwards shows no ill effects from the hard acceleration.

While a passenger of course pay attention to how the transmission shifts, how the car rides, feels. The car should not want to pull to one side or the other and the hard acceleration should give the driver a chance to perform a hard braking. No tire lock up but you want to verify the brakes have plenty of bite and the car tracks straight under hard braking.

With an automatic I recommend having the driver do a k-turn with the engine/transmission cold to see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After the 15 mile test ride then back at the starting point -- leaving the engine running -- get behind the wheel and drive the car over the same 15 mile test route and drive it pretty much the same way although since the car is unknown to you you can dial back on the hard acceleration test. You don't want to let the car get away from you and wrap it around a telephone pole.

And with the engine/transmission now up to temperature you do the k-turn to once again see how the transmission reacts to repeated/rapid changes in direction.

After your 15 mile test drive then at the starting point if you still like the car confirm all systems work. From the head lights to the tail lights. From the horn to the back up camera (if fitted). The A/C. Check all the controls. The wipers. Everything.

At this point if you still like the car and believe you can buy it for a good price -- based on your market research -- it is good idea to arrange to have the car given a pre-purchase inspection (PPI) by a tech who is qualified to evaluate the car. A Dodge dealer tech can be used. These guys evaluate trade ins all the time.

'course in your case a dealer is not available. But at least try to arrange to have the car lifted in the air. With the car in the air a check can be made for any leak sign. At the same time a check can be made for any signs of damage or damage repair.

The 15 mile test ride and 15 mile test drive are very important. You want to really experience the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road. All cars generally look good on the lot. But it is how they look and run and feel and sound and smell on the road, or after being on the road, that really matters.

Be aware and adjust your price accordingly that the car probably needs some attention. Unless the seller can supply paper work the services are current or you can run the VIN through a Dodge dealer and get a list of services budget for various services that are due.

In your specific case a 2015 with 6K miles and no oil changes is a bit of put of at least to me.

At 4 years old I'd be inclined to have the brake fluid flushed and bled at some point shortly after buying the car.

Tires should be in good condition but if not if the tires are worn unevenly budget for an alignment assuming wear is not severe enough to suspect the car's bent. In this case you don't want an alignment you want to walk away from the car.

Remember these things: Price is not fact only an opinion. And there is always another car. If you find something negative about this car don't feel you have to buy it. There is another car out there you'll like just as much if not more than this one and it won't have any negatives.
 

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Sevice it ASAP plz if you buy it pull the dip stick smell it ( old school) shouldn’t have a smell like gas should still look clear not milky if milky pass on it drain that gas out if there’s much in it probably gone bad
Good luck let us know what you decide
 

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It's a brand new car. Change oil and enjoy.
It is not a brand new car. The car is 4 years old and has 6K miles. Those miles might have been racked up 1/4 mile at a time. Or it might have suffered water damage. Rodent damage. May have some problem that was not or could not be addressed under any warranty as the car is not where there is any dealer to honor a warranty.

A thorough check of the car is required, or should be if one want to reduce the chances of buying somebody's problem.

(Even new cars need some check out. There's a thread of a buyer who found his *new* car had some rather shoddy paint work.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Colin,
There enough straight road there on the Rock to allow you to have fun with the car? Or will you have to head into Spain? Good on you for picking up the car. You'll love it.
Gibraltar is so small I walk everywhere. The good news is Spain and the rest of Europe is next-door and features many roads so I can stretch the Hellcats legs. I'm off to the Alps in the summer to drive all the roads on my bucket list. I need a four seater with a decent boot as it will be my only car.

I thought of importing one from the US or Canada but I'd have to waste money on flights and shipping. Then the duty on top makes it very expensive. At least with it being in the EU I can pay a small fee for registration and MOT (roadworthy test).

UPDATE: I've found a specialist mechanic that can inspect the car for approx £170 ($220). Far cheaper than me flying out and looking myself plus I'm struggling to find the time.

Sevice it ASAP plz if you buy it pull the dip stick smell it (old school) shouldn’t have a smell like gas should still look clear not milky if milky pass on it drain that gas out if there’s much in it probably gone bad
Good luck let us know what you decide
My old man used to work as a mechanic so I'd have him check it over even if the report comes back and the car passes with flying colours.

Thanks again for all the replies. Your help, guidance and knowledge is invaluable.
 

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Gibraltar is so small I walk everywhere. The good news is Spain and the rest of Europe is next-door and features many roads so I can stretch the Hellcats legs. I'm off to the Alps in the summer to drive all the roads on my bucket list. I need a four seater with a decent boot as it will be my only car.

I thought of importing one from the US or Canada but I'd have to waste money on flights and shipping. Then the duty on top makes it very expensive. At least with it being in the EU I can pay a small fee for registration and MOT (roadworthy test).

UPDATE: I've found a specialist mechanic that can inspect the car for approx £170 ($220). Far cheaper than me flying out and looking myself plus I'm struggling to find the time.



My old man used to work as a mechanic so I'd have him check it over even if the report comes back and the car passes with flying colours.

Thanks again for all the replies. Your help, guidance and knowledge is invaluable.
From what I recall when I was in Switzerland for business some years ago most roads were quite narrow. That Hellcat is really going to be a tight fit in places. (To get around my co-worker and I rented a small Mercedes-Benz barely larger than a smart car. Also, one day I drove a rented Renault from Zurich to Bern and back. It was bigger than the M-B but still rather small compared to the Hellcat.)

While you don't want to try to tell the specialist mechanic his business you want to gently question him to try to learn what the inspection consists of. And as I mentioned in my previous post there's a road test that should take place. The car must be experienced with the engine running and the car on the road being driven as you intend to drive the car. The 15 minute test ride followed by a 15 minute test drive plus the pre-test ride idle time has the engine running for nearly an hour. This gives the engine controller time to flag any engine or engine sensor errors. It also gets the vital fluids hot and makes it more likely if there is a leak the leak will be spotted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
From what I recall when I was in Switzerland for business some years ago most roads were quite narrow. That Hellcat is really going to be a tight fit in places. (To get around my co-worker and I rented a small Mercedes-Benz barely larger than a smart car. Also, one day I drove a rented Renault from Zurich to Bern and back. It was bigger than the M-B but still rather small compared to the Hellcat.)

While you don't want to try to tell the specialist mechanic his business you want to gently question him to try to learn what the inspection consists of. And as I mentioned in my previous post there's a road test that should take place. The car must be experienced with the engine running and the car on the road being driven as you intend to drive the car. The 15 minute test ride followed by a 15 minute test drive plus the pre-test ride idle time has the engine running for nearly an hour. This gives the engine controller time to flag any engine or engine sensor errors. It also gets the vital fluids hot and makes it more likely if there is a leak the leak will be spotted.
I will ask them to give it a thorough once over and take pics and videos so it backs up what they have said.

Narrow roads are a pain. I had a Lambo Gallardo Spider for 7 years and whilst it was great on normal roads, it was a pain in Europe on narrow roads which were two way but should have been one way. It's the wing mirrors that used to drive me mad, they stuck out and forced you to sweat when trying to negotiate a tight lane or even the Euro Tunnel which has cost me an alloy wheel refurb or two. I am a sucker for a silly wide car, my old Hummer H1 was too big for the UK so looked silly everywhere except offload. My current car (which will be handed back to Mercedes next month) is the GLE and that's the biggest you can fit around Gibraltar and most medieval european cities. The Challenger is a big old thing but I'm up for it.
 

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Now, of course, you'll have to give all forum members who make it to the Rock a free ride, you know that right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
UPDATE: After what seems like an age I have finally got in touch with the actual owner (via the dealer) who imported the car from Dubai. The car has had one service. I'm now trying to sort out when I can get a mechanic to check it over. With the current speed of negotiation I may get there to see it in early March and beat any reply I receive!
 
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