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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't had my Redeye for very long and yesterday I noticed for the first time while in manual mode and while it upshifts from 1st 2nd 3rd and then 4th instead of going to 5th it downshifts to 3rd. Luckily I am not going very fast but has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?
 

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2020 Challenger Hellcat Redeye Wide Body
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Using the paddles?
 

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2020 Challenger Hellcat Redeye Widebody Indigo Blue with Graphics Package
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I would try again taking it easy through the shifts.
 

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2020 Challenger Hellraisin Scat Pack.
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I haven't had my Redeye for very long and yesterday I noticed for the first time while in manual mode and while it upshifts from 1st 2nd 3rd and then 4th instead of going to 5th it downshifts to 3rd. Luckily I am not going very fast but has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?
Yes, with my 2018 Hellcat.

Long story short took the car in -- after a ride along with the shop foreman during which the paddles, including the +paddle, behaved perfectly (figures...) -- and SF found several low voltage errors logged. These were Dodge proprietary errors not OBD2 errors.

He also found the car due to besides the CAN/CRUISE CONTROL update, was due a PCM and a TCM update as well.

All 3 were applied.

These along with my change in usage of the car -- I drove it more often to keep the battery topped up -- had the spurious down shift when using the +paddle gone. Using the +paddle thereafter only resulted in an up shift.

More recently I believe there has been some TSB or something similar regarding this issue. However, I checked my files and I have nothing on this.
 

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I think dodges recommendation/solution on this issue is to hold the paddle for 1 second during upshifts. I used to have the same issue on my 2017, i’d upshift and it would actually downshift instead. I’d hear the high rev and look down at the dash indicator and it would show 2nd gear. I thought that’s odd, I was just in 3rd and I upshifted to 4th, yet somehow i’m in 2nd? Made me think I was crazy. I understand the system isn’t as sophisticated as say an F1 car or lambo, but I think they could have come up with a better solution than “you’re not holding the paddle long enough, that’s on you”
 

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The software does not like normal driving throttle habits when using the paddles, they’re there for aggressive driving only or they’ll let you know the hard way...in a nutshell the adaptive software does not want to see partial throttle openings for paddling..they are an unsaid commit or quit performance device
 

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I think dodges recommendation/solution on this issue is to hold the paddle for 1 second during upshifts. I used to have the same issue on my 2017, i’d upshift and it would actually downshift instead. I’d hear the high rev and look down at the dash indicator and it would show 2nd gear. I thought that’s odd, I was just in 3rd and I upshifted to 4th, yet somehow i’m in 2nd? Made me think I was crazy. I understand the system isn’t as sophisticated as say an F1 car or lambo, but I think they could have come up with a better solution than “you’re not holding the paddle long enough, that’s on you”
Didn't mention it but I was told to hold the paddle longer. This didn't work. The spurious downshift -- like the correct up shift -- occurred immediately upon pulling back on the +paddle.

What I suspect is the lack of use contributed to this behavior due to a low battery power "glitch" at engine start. While the engine started it was a bit slow to react and a bit slower cranking. Just a bit.

The problem was a "winter" problem when I used the Hellcat less often to avoid using it in the rain.

A day before I took the car in I drove it and the +paddle was acting up all the time. I used my iPhone to capture this behavior. But the use topped up the battery and the next day of course with the SF in the car the untoward +paddle behavior didn't appear.

I also noticed other things that proved to be due to low voltage. Performance Pages would refuse to load. And at least once and maybe two times the "radio" booted up and the LCD had wide vertical blue bars. In the case of PP and the blue cars turning off the engine and even locking the car didn't "fix" this. What "fixed" it was as it turned out just driving the car more. For instance while I'd see this behavior first thing in the AM once at work -- after a 30 mile and 30+ minute drive -- subsequent restarts would have the radio and +paddle working just fine. I finally connected the dots and and after the SF found low battery voltage errors logged made it a point to use the car more often.
 

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The software does not like normal driving throttle habits when using the paddles, they’re there for aggressive driving only or they’ll let you know the hard way...in a nutshell the adaptive software does not want to see partial throttle openings for paddling..they are an unsaid commit or quit performance device
That was not my experience. When the +paddle was on its good behavior it worked just fine if I drove and "shifted" in a leisurely manner. Which I often did as I almost always drove in manual stick mode even if I was just driving around town.
 

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I hadn't considered a low voltage problem, but my Performance pages won't load until I run the car for at least 4 to 5 minutes. After start, even though the Performance Pages message illuminates indicating it is ready to load, they won't load until I run the car for a few more minutes. I thought it was the computer needing time to boot up, like any computer that needs several seconds to a minute to become fully operational. Also, a satellite connection must be established which requires some amount of time. Even when the car has been running for a while and is fully warmed up, if I shut it down and then restart, it always takes a few minutes before selecting Performance Pages will enable a successful load.
 

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My radio would act weird as well. It wouldn’t do anything on startup some days, then about 5-10 minutes into driving the srt splash screen would appear and blow away like the wind was pushing it, or whatever you’d call that. Other days i’d try to select my driving mode and nothing would happen, then the radio would just reboot. Finally the lcd started to separate and it looked like it was leaking water/fluid. At that point it really started to have a mind of it’s own. Dealers refused to warranty the radio, and one even suggested buying the maxcare and just having it fixed later (I intended to purchase my lease after the term ended). I figured to hell with this, i’m not paying $3,500 for a max care plus deductible to fix something that’s covered under 3/36 while the car is still within warranty period. Needless to say I turned in the lease. I miss having a quick car, but that experience left a bad impression with me.
 

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These cars know their owners and their driving habits, they look at the big picture and adjust accordingly good or bad...mine? well mine has agreed to walk the dog this week and do a little yard work
 

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I hadn't considered a low voltage problem, but my Performance pages won't load until I run the car for at least 4 to 5 minutes. After start, even though the Performance Pages message illuminates indicating it is ready to load, they won't load until I run the car for a few more minutes. I thought it was the computer needing time to boot up, like any computer that needs several seconds to a minute to become fully operational. Also, a satellite connection must be established which requires some amount of time. Even when the car has been running for a while and is fully warmed up, if I shut it down and then restart, it always takes a few minutes before selecting Performance Pages will enable a successful load.
Performance Pages is slow to load in my 2020 Scat Pack (6-speed). This seems to have gotten worse after a uConnect update was applied a week or two back. This slow to load behavior is at first cold start of the day or subsequent hot, warm restarts.

In the case of my Hellcat Performance Pages was not slow to load it failed to load. At first I'd just leave the radio alone to give it time but even after 30+ minutes -- my work commute -- it had not loaded. I tried the various reset finger presses but nothing worked. I believe I recemtly read where the ability to reset the radio via the touch screen feature was is not present in more recent -- at least circa 2018 -- models.
 

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Thanks. Mine will not reload, if Performance Pages fails to load unless I shut the car down/off completely for a couple of minutes. Then I restart the motor, wait 5 minutes, push the Performance Pages icon, and lo and behold: Performance Pages/oil temp. Yippee!

Apologies to the OP. I didn't mean to hi-jack the thread.
 

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2020 Challenger Hellcat Redeye Wide Body
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So there was a known paddle issue with some. Try driving in M mode but using the shifter. If it never does it and you can duplicate the problem using the paddles then I’d be thinking you have a defective paddle. Also try what others have said, holding the paddle for longer, although mine has never done this and I don’t recall holding the paddle for longer than normal.
Also be careful using the paddles driving around. It’s super easy to get your hands crossed and tied up like a pretzel. The paddles are really for those straight line power pulls, not for shifting around town. Using the shifter in M mode is the ticket for anything more than quick hard power pulls.
 
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Also be careful using the paddles driving around. It’s super easy to get your hands crossed and tied up like a pretzel....
^^^THIS^^^

I do use them, but oddly I almost like the shifter bump more when really dicing things up on a twisty road or on a track for exactly this reason. If your not rotating the steering wheel more than 20 or 30 degrees the paddles are great, but when you're really winding in and out on the wheel I kinda like the certainty of the console shift lever and the freedom to put my hands wherever.

Apparently Porsche figured this out too, so on the new GT3 there's a "shifter analog" in the center console instead of their dippy little flip switch shifter they use on the other PDK cars.

There was a paddle shift issue on early Hellcats that had to do with CANBUS communications. Interestingly the Performance Pages also place a fairly heavy CANBUS load on the onboard network. I've never thrown a protocol analyzer on my Hellcat, but both of these issues sounds like a network that's marginal on free capacity. If that's correct it might be a good idea NOT to run both the Performance Pages and the manual shift mode at the same time, just to be safe.

Remember when diagnosing a shift issue involved wrenches? Ah well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I haven't had my Redeye for very long and yesterday I noticed for the first time while in manual mode and while it upshifts from 1st 2nd 3rd and then 4th instead of going to 5th it downshifts to 3rd. Luckily I am not going very fast but has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?
I haven't had my Redeye for very long and yesterday I noticed for the first time while in manual mode and while it upshifts from 1st 2nd 3rd and then 4th instead of going to 5th it downshifts to 3rd. Luckily I am not going very fast but has anyone experienced this sort of problem before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
All good advice gentlemen, thank you all for that information. As far as battery is concerned I was told by car electrician to always even if the car is a daily driven car to hook it up to a treacle charge which I am doing for both cars. I will take some of your advice on holding the paddle shift just a tad longer but it takes getting used to that and today it did not happen at all. I will try it a bit longer to see if it happens again.
 

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So there was a known paddle issue with some. Try driving in M mode but using the shifter. If it never does it and you can duplicate the problem using the paddles then I’d be thinking you have a defective paddle. Also try what others have said, holding the paddle for longer, although mine has never done this and I don’t recall holding the paddle for longer than normal.
Also be careful using the paddles driving around. It’s super easy to get your hands crossed and tied up like a pretzel. The paddles are really for those straight line power pulls, not for shifting around town. Using the shifter in M mode is the ticket for anything more than quick hard power pulls.
The spurious down shift using the +paddle in my car's case was not a bad paddle. I believe the voltage pulse caused by the paddle was too low and was mistaken for a -paddle.

Suspecting the problem might lie some place else than at the paddle I used the lever to manually up shift (and sometimes down shift) a fair amount and never once was there any sign of a shifting problem.

Also, I never confused one paddle for another when in town or anywhere. However, I played it "safe". In some cases with the wheel turned a good ways I used the lever to up shift vs. the +paddle.

The PCM/TCM updates in my car's case addressed the untoward behavior. I have no idea what role was played by more frequent usage I gave the car. I was in no mood to revert to using the car infrequently just to find out.

One can try holding the paddle longer but my experience is with +paddle the correct up shift or spurious down shift the shift happened the instant I tugged on the paddle not some time after. The -paddle likewise triggered a shift immediately upon pulling the paddle.
 
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