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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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They would make your 392 sit slightly higher in front. I have a set of those as well as those injectors if interested.
 

· HOTY Winner
Challenger SRT Hellcat
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3,709 Posts
No idea, doing just rear springs is a no no.
 

· Banned
‘16 A8 Shaker
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3,116 Posts
Yeah I dunno why you can not buy the springs with the adjustable perch thing (shim?) for just the back? Been looking but so far I have not been able to find anyone willing to separate them from the front coil overs

As far as it being a no no I call bs

Running a 3588 front runner and a 3580 rear you’re gonna want to lower the back of the car. It will hook better. Look better too : )

#NoStinkBugs
 

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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’m not sure, I wanted to do just the back since I heard and read the weight will all be sent to the back for bigger hook but idk. I’m looking into the demon springs now since I heard it’ll raise my car while also giving me a better hook
 

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'23 Redeye Jailbreak
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4,887 Posts
I’m not sure, I wanted to do just the back since I heard and read the weight will all be sent to the back for bigger hook but idk. I’m looking into the demon springs now since I heard it’ll raise my car while also giving me a better hook
You have to think on the physics here. You have static weight over the rear (if it's lowered, it'll have some rear bias). Then, you have momentum... weight transfer towards the rear during a launch.

Now, imagine a moment if you have a lowered car. That momentum can only be taken up so much before your shocks run out of compression caused by the springs keeping them in a slightly compressed state. If you can't fully transfer the vehicle weight properly, the end result is wheel hop and/or a side-to-side fishtail. Now, compare this to a monster truck with 3 feet of rear suspension travel. They punch it, you see the truck squat and it shoots off straight as an arrow. The suspension is converting linear energy to vertical motion and the majority of that energy is taken up via that energy transfer onto the rear suspension (directed straight down over the rear drive wheels). That is what plants the vehicle for a launch.

Granted, we don't need 2-3 feet of suspension travel. What we do need though is a responsive enough of a rear suspension to handle the weight transfer. A properly kitted out drag car will have a fairly stiff front suspension and a soft rear suspension with enough compression to absorb the shock of the launch, but with low enough rebound to prevent a wheel hop. Lowering springs will negatively impact the suspension's ability to launch as it keeps the shocks in a semi-compressed state, which torpedoes the rebound. It's more or less like installing a trampoline on the rear end.

I have not and likely never will ever install a set of lowering springs on a car I plan on racing (because they make the car slower). If I want a lowered look but want to retain full function of the suspension, I install coilovers. They're a lot more expensive than el cheapo lowering springs... but lowering springs are for show, coilovers are for go. Most coilovers are adjustable as well. This is great for dialing in the rear suspension if you need to make adjustments at the track or for just normal use.
 

· Registered
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You have to think on the physics here. You have static weight over the rear (if it's lowered, it'll have some rear bias). Then, you have momentum... weight transfer towards the rear during a launch.

Now, imagine a moment if you have a lowered car. That momentum can only be taken up so much before your shocks run out of compression caused by the springs keeping them in a slightly compressed state. If you can't fully transfer the vehicle weight properly, the end result is wheel hop and/or a side-to-side fishtail. Now, compare this to a monster truck with 3 feet of rear suspension travel. They punch it, you see the truck squat and it shoots off straight as an arrow. The suspension is converting linear energy to vertical motion and the majority of that energy is taken up via that energy transfer onto the rear suspension (directed straight down over the rear drive wheels). That is what plants the vehicle for a launch.

Granted, we don't need 2-3 feet of suspension travel. What we do need though is a responsive enough of a rear suspension to handle the weight transfer. A properly kitted out drag car will have a fairly stiff front suspension and a soft rear suspension with enough compression to absorb the shock of the launch, but with low enough rebound to prevent a wheel hop. Lowering springs will negatively impact the suspension's ability to launch as it keeps the shocks in a semi-compressed state, which torpedoes the rebound. It's more or less like installing a trampoline on the rear end.

I have not and likely never will ever install a set of lowering springs on a car I plan on racing (because they make the car slower). If I want a lowered look but want to retain full function of the suspension, I install coilovers. They're a lot more expensive than el cheapo lowering springs... but lowering springs are for show, coilovers are for go. Most coilovers are adjustable as well. This is great for dialing in the rear suspension if you need to make adjustments at the track or for just normal use.
The things is I don’t want my car super lowered, I was looking at coil overs but heard the launch isn’t as good especially for the price, how is your launch with the coils?
 

· Registered
'23 Redeye Jailbreak
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4,887 Posts
The things is I don’t want my car super lowered, I was looking at coil overs but heard the launch isn’t as good especially for the price, how is your launch with the coils?
As I mentioned, the coilovers are typically adjustable. If the launch "isn't as good," then you adjust them until it's where you want it. All a coilover does is allow you to lower the car while still allowing full movement of the suspension.
 

· Banned
‘16 A8 Shaker
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3,116 Posts
The things is I don’t want my car super lowered….

I was looking at coil overs but heard the launch isn’t as good especially for the price, how is your launch with the coils?
Found em!

KW outta concord calif will sell me the adjustable rear set up with out having to purchase front coil overs. Approx 1” drop w a inch of adjustment

(1) 65210032
(1) 60210092
(1) 1900038
(1) 68510004

The springs are around 650#/inch BUT they are progressively wound. Dunno if it it’s gonna hop or not but gonna find out. All four pieces $175 worth a shot. Already have adjustable arms to zero out the camber : )
 

· Registered
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38 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Found em!

KW outta concord calif will sell me the adjustable rear set up with out having to purchase front coil overs. Approx 1” drop w a inch of adjustment

(1) 65210032
(1) 60210092
(1) 1900038
(1) 68510004

The springs are around 650#/inch BUT they are progressively wound. Dunno if it it’s gonna hop or not but gonna find out. All four pieces $175 worth a shot : )
Thank you! Looking into it now.
 
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