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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Sorry to hear this. Be sure to keep us informed to the other side of this.
I won’t modify mine till it’s shook down with several k miles. Can a dealer even safely raise a lowered car? Doubt mine could.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry to hear this. Be sure to keep us informed to the other side of this.
I won’t modify mine till it’s shook down with several k miles. Can a dealer even safely raise a lowered car? Doubt mine could.
I will for sure. I am hoping some people with some knowledge about things like this can give me some insight into what the issue may be. As for the dealership being able to raise the car, I would sure hope they could figure it out. It only dropped about an inch and they could use ramps to get it up higher to slide the supports underneath but we will see.

I sent @DodgeCares a couple of tweets about what happened. Hopefully they are responsive and actually care.
 

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First thing you should do is pull the codes from the dash. On my 2016 it is option 9 in the gauge cluster. It will ask if you want to scan for codes, run the scan, write down all of the codes, and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First thing you should do is pull the codes from the dash. On my 2016 it is option 9 in the gauge cluster. It will ask if you want to scan for codes, run the scan, write down all of the codes, and report back.
Not sure how to do this. I turned the car over to see if anything showed the codes in the performance or other applications via the onboard systems but couldn't find anything. I am assuming I need to go purchase a code reader from some retailer to get these codes?

When I started the car, it did not turn over right away and when it finally did, the check engine light was on (solid), along with a blinking ETC light and the traction control light. The car got hot real quick as well, causing the fans to kick on within minutes of being started. This thing seems to have some serious issues.

Thanks for your earlier response as well.
 

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Not sure how to do this. I turned the car over to see if anything showed the codes in the performance or other applications via the onboard systems but couldn't find anything. I am assuming I need to go purchase a code reader from some retailer to get these codes?

When I started the car, it did not turn over right away and when it finally did, the check engine light was on (solid), along with a blinking ETC light and the traction control light. The car got hot real quick as well, causing the fans to kick on within minutes of being started. This thing seems to have some serious issues.

Thanks for your earlier response as well.
Nah, you can read the code directly. DON'T start the car, just go to "key on" but pushing the start button with your foot OFF the brake. Arrow to option 9 from there, and follow the text on screen from there.

It never hurts to check those battery connections in the trunk just to be sure everything is right and tight! From there, post up and lots of folks here will try to pitch in to help,
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It was probably sick of not being driven.

(& in a heated garage with a car capsule?):rolleyes:
Funny - you would drive yours in Northeast Ohio snow belt winters and leave it in a non-heated garage in below 0 temps for 6 months, unprotected from mice looking for a nice winter home???? I highly doubt it but still funny. With that said, when I drive it, I drive it so it gets to flex its muscle, just not in elements.
 

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Before knowing the codes the problem could be a number of things. That it happened after some minutes of driving sort of makes me think the problem could be a bad battery or an alternator. Either one is causing the alternator to not supply sufficient electrical power to the car. This can result in all sorts of warnings, rough running engine, CEL even.

If it is the battery chances are an engine off engine off and restart will not find the behavior any better. But if the alternator is bad in my limited experience turning off the engine and after a short while starting the engine again can have the alternator working just again. For a while.

But it could something else too.

The car is new and of course has a warranty. Best advice I can offer is run the engine as little as possible and get the car to the dealer to have this looked into ASAP.

Be sure to come back and update us as what the problem was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nah, you can read the code directly. DON'T start the car, just go to "key on" but pushing the start button with your foot OFF the brake. Arrow to option 9 from there, and follow the text on screen from there.

It never hurts to check those battery connections in the trunk just to be sure everything is right and tight! From there, post up and lots of folks here will try to pitch in to help,
Okay - I am literally in shock at the moment and sitting here believing there is no way this can be right. The codes show as follows: P0339, P0335, P0642, P1618, P2174, P2122, P2111, and P1643. While I highly doubt this is possible, is there anything a tech could have done during an oil change that could cause all this!? This is crazy to have this many codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Before knowing the codes the problem could be a number of things. That it happened after some minutes of driving sort of makes me think the problem could be a bad battery or an alternator. Either one is causing the alternator to not supply sufficient electrical power to the car. This can result in all sorts of warnings, rough running engine, CEL even.

If it is the battery chances are an engine off engine off and restart will not find the behavior any better. But if the alternator is bad in my limited experience turning off the engine and after a short while starting the engine again can have the alternator working just again. For a while.

But it could something else too.

The car is new and of course has a warranty. Best advice I can offer is run the engine as little as possible and get the car to the dealer to have this looked into ASAP.

Be sure to come back and update us as what the problem was.
Thanks for the insight. I just posted the codes to a comment someone made - I have 8 codes!!!
 

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CodePO642 I think tells the story. Error Code P0642 is defined as Sensor Reference Voltage “A” Circuit Low, meaning there’s an abnormally low voltage reading detected within the “A” circuit, likely caused nu faulty engine control module or other malfunctions.

I had problems too when my battery was low. It checked out to be a good battery but it was not. A Low Battery is a real PITA
I would check that 1st.
Linda :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
CodePO642 I think tells the story. Error Code P0642 is defined as Sensor Reference Voltage “A” Circuit Low, meaning there’s an abnormally low voltage reading detected within the “A” circuit, likely caused nu faulty engine control module or other malfunctions.

I had problems too when my battery was low. It checked out to be a good battery but it was not. A Low Battery is a real PITA
I would check that 1st.
Linda :)
Hi Linda and thank you for the insight. That makes me feel a little bit better and my hope is that is what the issue is. Do you think starting the car several times after the initial issue appeared and driving it when it appeared I could caused or could cause internal damage to other engine components or parts within the vehicle?

I just looked up the codes online and they are as follows:

P0339 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Intermittent
P0335 - Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit
P0642 - Sensor Reference Voltage 1 Circuit Low
P1618 - Sensor Reference Voltage 1 Erratic
P2174 - Low Airflow/Restriction Detected (Instantaneous Accumulation)
P2122 - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor 1 Circuit Low
P2111 - Electronic Throttle Control System - Unable to Close
P1643 - Supercharger Bypass Valve Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed
 

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None of those codes are reporting the cause - they are merely symptoms of the actual failure. You paid for a warranty, and now you get to use it. Whatever the problem is, it is simple. These codes are, for lack of a better term, spurious.

Several years ago my GS400 Lexus suddenly went into limp home mode, lit every light on the panel, and proceeded down the road at a blistering 18mph. After several key re-starts it was fine. The one code was for the ECU, which had declared itself faulty. The problem? The alternator regulator had produced a voltage spike, probably around 17V, for a few seconds, and every sensor went out of range. 100k kilometres later and the car is still fine.

The dealer will fix, and probably quite quickly. You've done no damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Before knowing the codes the problem could be a number of things. That it happened after some minutes of driving sort of makes me think the problem could be a bad battery or an alternator. Either one is causing the alternator to not supply sufficient electrical power to the car. This can result in all sorts of warnings, rough running engine, CEL even.

If it is the battery chances are an engine off engine off and restart will not find the behavior any better. But if the alternator is bad in my limited experience turning off the engine and after a short while starting the engine again can have the alternator working just again. For a while.

But it could something else too.

The car is new and of course has a warranty. Best advice I can offer is run the engine as little as possible and get the car to the dealer to have this looked into ASAP.

Be sure to come back and update us as what the problem was.
Thanks for the reply and insight! Very much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
None of those codes are reporting the cause - they are merely symptoms of the actual failure. You paid for a warranty, and now you get to use it. Whatever the problem is, it is simple. These codes are, for lack of a better term, spurious.

Several years ago my GS400 Lexus suddenly went into limp home mode, lit every light on the panel, and proceeded down the road at a blistering 18mph. After several key re-starts it was fine. The one code was for the ECU, which had declared itself faulty. The problem? The alternator regulator had produced a voltage spike, probably around 17V, for a few seconds, and every sensor went out of range. 100k kilometres later and the car is still fine.

The dealer will fix, and probably quite quickly. You've done no damage.
Thank you for the reply. That too makes me feel a lot better. Not having much knowledge about these things had me worried, especially after reading the problems some have had. Hopefully you are right and this is a quick fix.
 

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Like others said, you've got a warranty which is a life saver here. Nothing to be seriously worried about! If I had to fancy a guess based off the codes and details you provided, the battery tender during storage must have been faulty and kept going into a "charging/not charging" state, over and over, and killed the alternator, which ultimately led to the idle/stalling issues while out on your drive.
 
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+1 to all these - looks like a battery or ground thing on first blush. Scary codes but likely a not terrible fix. Warranty for the win!
 

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+1 to all these - looks like a battery or ground thing on first blush. Scary codes but likely a not terrible fix. Warranty for the win!
The freeze frame data and associated code is important. This is the code that triggered the CEL.

With all those codes I would have to agree with others that believe the problem is voltage related.

The rest of the codes arise from the low voltage condition.

Time to get the car in for a professional's diagnosis.
 
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