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Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
My friend had the same problem on his 2019 scat and it was fuel pumps failure.
 

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Challenger SRT Redeye
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Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
Just my opinion, you said you had dealer do an oil change, for starters a ( tech ) Normally doesn’t do the oil change a person that only does oil changes does it, could have knocked a wire, cable, or something, as for not driving or starting it all winter, it’s almost like going though a Break in period Over and over.... everything needs to re set...
 

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Challenger SRT Redeye
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Just my opinion, you said you had dealer do an oil change, for starters a ( tech ) Normally doesn’t do the oil change a person that only does oil changes does it, could have knocked a wire, cable, or something, as for not driving or starting it all winter, it’s almost like going though a Break in period Over and over.... everything needs to re set...
I’m lucky. A “tech” at my dealer handles mine. Love the work he does!!
 

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Funny - you would drive yours in Northeast Ohio snow belt winters and leave it in a non-heated garage in below 0 temps for 6 months, unprotected from mice looking for a nice winter home???? I highly doubt it but still funny. With that said, when I drive it, I drive it so it gets to flex its muscle, just not in elements.
I feel you JJcole23, I live in AK and she gets parked and stored for around 6 months in the winter in our heated shop if we have room, otherwise in cold storage in the same building if a project is going on that would put the car at risk of damage. No shame in protecting your investment!! I wish you well in getting to the bottom of your troubles. As mentioned check your battery connections and then work on those codes, bet you’ll find an answer. One electronic code/issue can cause some pretty crazy stuff these days. My son’s 2019 GMC Diesel Denali started throwing codes at 5 months out of dealership and is in the shop now. All apparently connected... Hood ajar light, left blinker mirror light not working, if lock the doors, alarm goes off randomly at any time, remote start disabled, it goes on...
 

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3 Posts
Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
I own a 2019 Challenger Red Eye as well and my advice to you is "STOP." Once the check engine light comes on and the performance of the car deteriorates markedly, it's time to get the car off the road to safe place and call AAA or the equivalent to have it towed directly to a dealership (drop the car and place the keys in the locked key box). By continuously trying to start the car and driving it in its crippled state, you're more than likely damaging it. Trying to pull codes from the car is a futile exercise unless you are a mechanic certified in fixing these cars. Your best bet is to get it towed to a dealer where the repairs will be done under full warranty. More than likely a critical sensor blew up, and is the cause of all your troubles. I got a check engine light on my car but thank goodness it was merely a fuel pressure sensor, and I was able to drive the car just fine (albeit gently) as there was no drop in performance. I know spending $100k on a machine and having it perform this poorly this early in the game is frustrating but trust me, get to a dealership ASAP and you'll back on the road sooner rather than later. FCA still has build quality issues that they are trying hard to mitigate but they are certainly not perfect. In addition to the fuel pressure sensor, I had a passenger headlight go out on me (replaced the ballast), a minor leak in the transmission (replaced a few parts) and a wheel alignment which effected by going to into subframe. But after got these kinks worked out, my ride has been vicious.
 

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Did you ever get it figured out?

With the battery tender, did you hook it directly to the battery or to the connections under the hood? Did you use clamps or physically attach it to the posts? Sorry for all the questions but I recently had some strange issues, car wouldn't want to start but then would kick on after a bit, I was getting stability control messages, dash lights all over. I ended up replacing the battery and the issue actually got worse. I was ready to bring it to the dealer and was taking off that stuff to eliminate potential wasted time of myself and the dealership only to find the nut that holds the positive terminal under the hood wasn't on tightly. I was able to unscrew the nut with my fingers. I tightened everything down and it's been perfect since so I'd give that a look and make sure everything is tight!

*Edit: This only works for CHARGERS not Challengers.
If you replace the battery, I recommend buying the optional bracket so you can use the police size H8 AGM battery. That's what I did and it's significantly bigger and heavier than the Mopar battery.
 

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Did you ever get it figured out?

With the battery tender, did you hook it directly to the battery or to the connections under the hood? Did you use clamps or physically attach it to the posts? Sorry for all the questions but I recently had some strange issues, car wouldn't want to start but then would kick on after a bit, I was getting stability control messages, dash lights all over. I ended up replacing the battery and the issue actually got worse. I was ready to bring it to the dealer and was taking off that stuff to eliminate potential wasted time of myself and the dealership only to find the nut that holds the positive terminal under the hood wasn't on tightly. I was able to unscrew the nut with my fingers. I tightened everything down and it's been perfect since so I'd give that a look and make sure everything is tight!

If you replace the battery, I recommend buying the optional bracket so you can use the police size H8 AGM battery. That's what I did and it's significantly bigger and heavier than the Mopar battery.
I’d like to hear more about the bracket and AGM.
 

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I’d like to hear more about the bracket and AGM.

** Charger Hellcats/392/5.7/V6s not for Challengers.
You buy this bracket and it allows you to run the H8 battery instead of the standard H7. Essentially just gives you more available power. 900 vs 850 CCA, 95 vs 80 Ah @ 20 Hr, 160 vs 140 RC @ 25 Amp. It's a PITA to get it in but it fits tightly.
 

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I own a 2019 Challenger WideBody, Red Eye as well and my advice to you is "STOP." Once the check engine light comes on and the performance of the car deteriorates markedly, it's time to get the car off the road to safe place and call AAA or the equivalent to have it towed directly to a dealership (drop the car and place the keys in the locked key box). By continuously trying to start the car and driving it in its crippled state, you're more than likely damaging it. Trying to pull codes from the car is a futile exercise unless you are a mechanic certified in fixing these cars. Your best bet is to get it towed to a dealer where the repairs will be done under full warranty. More than likely a critical sensor blew up, and is the cause of all your troubles. I got a check engine light on my car but thank goodness it was merely a fuel pressure sensor, and I was able to drive the car just fine (albeit gently) as there was no drop in performance. I know spending $100k on a machine and having it perform this poorly this early in the game is as disappointing as it is frustrating but trust me, get it to a dealership ASAP and you'll back on the road sooner rather than later. FCA still has build quality issues that they are trying hard to mitigate but they are certainly not perfect. In addition to the fuel pressure sensor, I had a passenger headlight go out on me (replaced the ballast), a minor leak in the transmission (replaced a few parts) and a wheel alignment issue which was repaired by going to into subframe. But after got these kinks worked out, my ride has been vicious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
UPDATE!!!! First and foremost...thanks to all the replied! Your input was greatly appreciated. So, in short, the dealer had to replace the pedal sensor and crank sensor. I am going to post a new post everything the tech wrote as maybe it will help others.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Well, my fears came true! Would love to hear your thoughts on what might be the issue, but first, here is what happened.

About 8 months ago, I traded in my 2016 Hellcat for a brand new, right off the trailer 2019 WB RE. I got about 400 miles on it before the winter and storing it in a heated garage, enclosed in a Car Capsule with a battery tender attached and sitting on flat stoppers. I took it out of storage about 2 months ago and finished its 500 mile break-in period just as the manual said I should and now have just shy of 1,400 miles on it. I just got an oil change at a Dodge dealership and always used 93 octane. No engine modifications and there have been zero issues and no sign of issues until yesterday!!!

I decided to go for a short spin since it was so nice out....about 75 degrees and not very humid. I drove about 15 miles when I was slowing down as I approached a red light. Suddenly I felt the car feel like it was stalling and when I looked at the gauges, the check engine light and Electronic Throttle Control (ETC), and potentially others were lit up and then I stalled. I was able to restart the car and get it into a parking lot but the check engine light was still on (solid, not flashing) and it had a real rough idle and seemed like it had reduced power. Once I parked, I shut the car off and read the manual which basically said that in regards to the check engine light, if it was solid and not flashing, the car should be driveable but needs attention. In regards to the ETC, it said that by recycling the start, the ETC should reset and disappear, allowing for the car to be driveable but indicated that if the light ETC light remained on while driving, immediate attention would be needed and the car may experience rough idling, potentially stall, and reduced power.

As such, I started the car and only the check engine light appeared so I started gingerly driving home since all dealerships were closed at this time. After about 2 miles, I approached another red light and just as I started slowing down, the car felt like it was going to stall and then shortly after stopping, the ETC light came on again. I was able to pull off and I sat for about 10 minutes to let the car cool and see what it would do upon restart. When I restarted, only the check engine light was on and within two miles, the same thing happened again; the ETC light came on and it felt like I was going to stall and I had substantially less power so I pulled off and decided it needed to be towed.

Do to me lowering the car, the tow guy was having trouble getting underneath the car to winch it so we decided we would try and drive it onto the flatbed. The first time I started it, the idle was terrible and as soon as I put it in drive, it stalled. I restarted it a few minutes later and it did not stall when putting it in drive so I was able to get onto the flatbed but as soon as I did, despite the engine running, when I touched the gas, the car would go nowhere and the tachometer wouldn't even move so I shut it down and we pushed it the rest of the way on the flatbed. Once we got to my house, the car restarted and I was able to put the car in reverse to get off the flatbed but it sounded terrible, the check engine light was on, along with the ETC light, and once I got into the garage, when I put it in drive to straighten out, it immediately stalled. It has been in the garage like that since.

After I got this car, I started seeing a lot of posts by people who owned HCs having major issues with check engine lights and things of that sort and it always left a pit in my stomach wondering if the car I just spent nearly $100k on would have the same issues and be a POS.

So, what are your thoughts on what the problem is? Any suggestions? I am clueless when it comes to things like this and learning as I go. Any insightful information would be greatly appreciated!
Here is what the tech wrote when trying to fix the problem:

"Ran diagnostic codes in PCM stored P0642, P2174, TCM U1428, ABS C121C, U0401

Code active now is P0642. Measured 5V supply CKT F855 at TBODY 0.30V present currently. Ran diagnostic per code P0642. Tested and disconnected sensors on same circuit. No changes present. Didn't get to crank sensor yet. Engine hot and need to pull starter motor. After testing sensors and unplugging them, the voltage was back at 4.95V at TBODY. Plugged in all sensors while monitoring - no change. Voltage stayed at 4.95V normal. Cleared codes. Codes gone and engine runs normal. Attempted to road test. Vehicle acted up as pulling out oh shop while pressing accel pedal. Code set P1618, P2174. Performed PCM flash update per TSB 18-032-20. No changes to issue. Cleared codes; codes gone. Found at idle when bliping the throttle code resets and engine stumbles.

Possible internal accel pedal sensor fault. Performed harness wiggle tests; no changes. Need to replace pedal sensor and retest vehicle.

Installed new accel pedal sensor and performed relearn procedure. Cleared codes and road tested.

After about 5 miles of driving, the engine light came back on, right after a left turn and starting to accel. Checked 5V supply reading 4.95V running. Cannot get issue to reset in shop. Voltage hold steady; no glitches.

Installed new crank sensor. Cleared codes. Ran vehicle until hot. Tested operation. Performed harness wiggle tests; passed. Road test vehicle over 5 miles. Vehicle ran all normal as tested. Will let vehicle sit and retest again later to verify. Road test again over 5 miles. Vehicle is operating normal now; all ookay as driven."

I had no issue driving the car home (about 15 miles) but I haven't been able to drive since. May drive today and push it some to see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
JJcole23, Sorry to hear you're having these issues. Did you receive a VHR, vehicle health report email from Dodge. I had ETC & MIL lights & P2172 code last month, I received a few VHR's about my issues. I also jumped on the forum & panicked for help. I know from personal experience the sick feeling this gives you, the money you've put in your car & knowing you've maintained your car. As others have said, Warranty, Warranty! Good Luck & please keep us posted on what you find out.
Thanks Hammy. I did get the VHR report but as you know, it doesn't give you a ton of information. I just posted an update and added a new post with what the tech found and noted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
During the Covid lockdown here in VA, my 2018 sat for months without being driven or started. The first time out, it did similar things. The car barely started and just acted goofy. I shut off the car and restarted a few blocks away and came back home. I disconnected the battery and put it on the charger... problem solved the next day. My 300 SRT did similar strange things with a low battery. My Suburban is the same way... they don’t tolerate low voltage that’s for sure.

A piece of advice... keep the key fob away from the car during storage. The fob will turn things on without you knowing and in turn drain the battery.
Thanks for the post. I do keep my key fobs inside my house and away from the car but I didn't know what you just said so I appreciate that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Just saw this, if your throwing that many codes you have some sort of battery/ground issue. The electronics on any car, dislike a low voltage reading. I had my car (2015 Hellcat) in storage, battery went dead, was an absolute nightmare to clear all the codes. The one that gave me fits was the window indexing, but just on the drivers side....not the passenger side. Indexing is when the window drops 1/4 inch to clear weatherstrip to open. Good Luck
Thanks for the reply. Have you had any issues since yours was fixed? I posted a couple new threads with an update to my issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Something similar happened to me with my 2015. It ended up being the ground wire wasn’t attached tightly enough to the engine block. They literally turned the screw once and it fixed it. Took me trips to 2 different Dodge dealers for them to figure it out.
Thanks for the post. Unfortunately, that was not my issue but this is good to know for potential future issues like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Call me @: (404))578-5557. Just went through this entire episode with my Hennessy HC. I can help you.
Thanks for the offer! Had I seen this before the car got fixed, I would have called but I may end up taking you up on it later if things start acting up again. I posted updates if interested. Mine turned out to be sensor issues.
 
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