[RezinTexas]

Manual transmission experts – please help me with my TR6060 swap plan. Do I need any more parts or tools? I have lots of experience working on cars, rebuilding engines and suspension, etc. however I’ve never swapped a manual transmission before.

Here is the plan: I’ll be swapping out the stock tr6060 in my 2018 hellcat widebody with a “level 6” unit from RPM transmissions. The reason for the swap is better gear ratios for street driving. The car might see a couple track passes per year, however there are no plans to change the power from stock. The car currently has 11k miles and drives fine, no issues with the clutch or anything else, however I decided to get a new clutch anyway “while I’m in there”.

Here's what I’ve purchased so far:

1. New transmission from RPM, with gearing: 2.66, 1.78, 1.31, 1.00, 0.74, 0.50
2. New OEM clutch and flywheel
3. Clutch alignment tool (Clutch Alignment Tool Steel 1-1/8x26 Dodge)
4. Tranny jack from harbor freight

Do I need any other specialty tools, or should I replace any other parts? What about the slave cylinder or throwout bearing? Are those worth replacing at the same time? How do I determine if the flywheel needs to be replaced?

Anyone know the correct ARP part numbers for the flywheel and clutch bolts? They aren’t listed for the hellcat on ARPs website.

I found the following torque specs:

• Bellhousing to engine block: 33
  • TORQUE SPECS
• Propshaft to transmission and rear axle flanges: 49
  • Torque specs
• I can’t find the flywheel to crank bolt torque specs.

Thanks for reading!

 

[Frosty]

No real specialty tools needed outside of the alignment tool. While not necessary you may look into a flywheel holder. Can help with torquing the bolts down.

Couple of items for you to think about/consider.

• The stock clutch is fine for street use but on a prepped track (and especially with DR's) they really are very susceptible to failure/slipping. Keep that in mind and really think about how you plan to use your car as you don't want to keep doing this job over and over. If it were me and I planned on some track use I'd look at a stronger clutch.
• Slave cylinder/throwout bearing - I million % will never change a clutch and not change this. They are super cheap for the amount of effort/time they take to replace so for me it's a rule of thumb that it gets changed with a clutch change.
• Flywheel - Wont matter since you said you are replacing it. But you look for hot spots (discoloration) as the first sign of failure. Then look for any grooves in the surface (think old break rotor for instance). And lastly, if all that is good you can check for runout to make sure their isn't any warpage. If their aren't any hotspots or surface wear I doubt their would be any warpage but always good to check.
• Make sure you have all the fluid you need (don't forget about the trans cooler volume). I'd flush out the cooler and lines while I had the transmission off just to make sure it nice and clean for your new transmission. Easy to do by just pushing fresh fluid through it.
• Talk to @16GoManGoHC to see if he still offers the magnet plugs. If so, I'd suggest them to help catch any possible junk from the new trans. Probably overkill but you just spent a pretty penny on the transmission thus my suggestion. He may also have the part numbers you are looking for. He's the only person I know that's really dug in to trans swaps so I tagged him hoping he sees it to provide you guidance as well. He may have the same transmission you got too and if so could recommend a better fluid as I know he's not using the stock stuff with his.

Best of luck. It's not "hard" to do but is time consuming so give yourself plenty of time and make sure to have a helper or two. Even with the transmission jack you still don't want it falling on you.

 

[RezinTexas]

No real specialty tools needed outside of the alignment tool. While not necessary you may look into a flywheel holder. Can help with torquing the bolts down.

Couple of items for you to think about/consider.

• The stock clutch is fine for street use but on a prepped track (and especially with DR's) they really are very susceptible to failure/slipping. Keep that in mind and really think about how you plan to use your car as you don't want to keep doing this job over and over. If it were me and I planned on some track use I'd look at a stronger clutch.
• Slave cylinder/throwout bearing - I million % will never change a clutch and not change this. They are super cheap for the amount of effort/time they take to replace so for me it's a rule of thumb that it gets changed with a clutch change.
• Flywheel - Wont matter since you said you are replacing it. But you look for hot spots (discoloration) as the first sign of failure. Then look for any grooves in the surface (think old break rotor for instance). And lastly, if all that is good you can check for runout to make sure their isn't any warpage. If their aren't any hotspots or surface wear I doubt their would be any warpage but always good to check.
• Make sure you have all the fluid you need (don't forget about the trans cooler volume). I'd flush out the cooler and lines while I had the transmission off just to make sure it nice and clean for your new transmission. Easy to do by just pushing fresh fluid through it.
• Talk to @16GoManGoHC to see if he still offers the magnet plugs. If so, I'd suggest them to help catch any possible junk from the new trans. Probably overkill but you just spent a pretty penny on the transmission thus my suggestion. He may also have the part numbers you are looking for. He's the only person I know that's really dug in to trans swaps so I tagged him hoping he sees it to provide you guidance as well. He may have the same transmission you got too and if so could recommend a better fluid as I know he's not using the stock stuff with his.

Best of luck. It's not "hard" to do but is time consuming so give yourself plenty of time and make sure to have a helper or two. Even with the transmission jack you still don't want it falling on you.

Frosty - many thanks for the detailed reply, I really appreciate it.

On the clutch, I've chosen a stock replacement based on reading the experiences from 16GoManGoHC (here: M6 tranny buld - looking for recommendations) and Chad Feyerband (spelling?) on Facebook. Both seem to have lots of good runs at the track with the stock clutch, lots of runs in the 10s and at least one in the 9s. Maybe I'll regret it, but that's my thinking at the moment!

Slave cylinder and the fluids - thanks for the tips.

Hopefully 16GoManGoHC chimes in on the rest