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Gorilla going back got same set as MVT. Taper slightly different, no taper stop. Taper too far into rim tested 2 rims all ya gotta so to see it is take rim off car push gorilla nut to rim see how much taper passing through just a tiny bit of taper apex not passing through and with no taper back stop and soft metal rim, no way running on my car. Take a torqued gorilla lug off see the bite point and what remains. Do not recommend, nope.
 

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Gorilla going back got same set as MVT. Taper slightly different, no taper stop. Taper too far into rim tested 2 rims all ya gotta so to see it is take rim off car push gorilla nut to rim see how much taper passing through just a tiny bit of taper apex not passing through and with no taper back stop and soft metal rim, no way running on my car. Take a torqued gorilla lug off see the bite point and what remains. Do not recommend, nope.
I do not understand what you are saying here. MVT has Gorilla all locking lugs. Is that what you are getting also? Are the Gorilla locking lug faces different from the faces on the regular Gorilla Lugs?
 

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I do not understand what you are saying here. MVT has Gorilla all locking lugs. Is that what you are getting also? Are the Gorilla locking lug faces different from the faces on the regular Gorilla Lugs?

I'll snap pics in few... then elaborate. I ordered same set MVT did (Almost certain got part # hyperlink from him all locking.)
 

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I do not understand what you are saying here. MVT has Gorilla all locking lugs. Is that what you are getting also? Are the Gorilla locking lug faces different from the faces on the regular Gorilla Lugs?
OK,

See missing finish, where that is on the taper apex, that's the (only) bite pressure point. See how close that is to taper apex (a miniscule amount of taper diameter increase left.) This is Gorilla GOR-7143NBC.


Product Auto part


Material property


Tested 2 rims and a few nuts all under torque then off car, same same. Stock nuts have taper back stop Gorilla no, which is fine if they were right sized for this app. They are not (imo.)

Rims are soft metal we know the torque this car throws down to real wheels, uh uh not going there no way.
 

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OK,

See missing finish, where that is on the taper apex, that's the (only) bite pressure point. See how close that is to taper apex (a miniscule amount of taper diameter increase left.) This is Gorilla GOR-7143NBC.
That picture does tell the story. I am going to the garage to check mine now.

View attachment 8278

Tested 2 rims and a few nuts all under torque then off car, same same.

Rims are soft metal we know the torque this car throws down to real wheels, uh uh not going there no way.
 

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Thanks Cool 1 for giving us an FYI as this is important to have the right amount of Taper to match the seat on the rim! Saved me a few bucks that's worth a thank you in my books :cool:
 
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Thanks Cool 1 for giving us an FYI as this is important to have the right amount of Taper to match the seat on the rim! Saved me a few bucks that's worth a thank you in my books :cool:
Appearance wise they look very close on taper it was when I had rim off and just pushed them in hole and looked at back side of rim is what concerned me. You could over torque em down but would ream out rim I decided no. For all I know it may have been my cars rim tolerances. Still bagged it.
 

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I will have to take a couple off and have a look at the lug and the rim. I have had no issues and have had the car to 140mph. Thanks for the Info I will let you know what I see thanks.
 

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I had mine torqued to 110 lbs. On the specs the taper is also 60 degrees. If I don't see any real issues looking at them when I rotate I will keep them.
Same torque spec I used. Could have been my rim tolerances or the lug nuts who knows. Your probably fine check them wheel / rim off, back side view and if the tapers show force marks. (I shoulda took pick with rim off tire. Hold them in hit with flashlight from front taper didn't match on my setup wierd.
 

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Same torque spec I used. Could have been my rim tolerances or the lug nuts who knows. Your probably fine check them wheel / rim off, back side view and if the tapers show force marks. (I shoulda took pick with rim off tire. Hold them in hit with flashlight from front taper didn't match on my setup wierd.
Thanks for the info, when I have my SRT Tech do the oil change, I will rotate and take a look.
 

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I went with McGard nuts. They are black chrome. Here is a photo comparing the OEM to McGard. I believe that they have the correct 60 degree taper. View attachment 8285
Your taper looks right it appears there's a difference in conical length, a 2nd taper exists on oe set, the nut seats appear close to same length. I'd check the McGard and ensure conical taper fits (mates) and your not relying on the nut seat face exclusively under compression without a full conical seat.
 

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Same torque spec I used. Could have been my rim tolerances or the lug nuts who knows. Your probably fine check them wheel / rim off, back side view and if the tapers show force marks. (I shoulda took pick with rim off tire. Hold them in hit with flashlight from front taper didn't match on my setup wierd.
This is what I did yesterday and they look fine when I held them in place and looked from behind. I should have taken a photo but I decided to put on the rear mud flaps while I had the wheel off. Time will tell and I will keep a close watch on these. Thanks for the excellent info TC1.
 
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I went with McGard nuts. They are black chrome. Here is a photo comparing the OEM to McGard. I believe that they have the correct 60 degree taper. View attachment 8285
Getting the right taper/shape where the lugnut clamps down on the rim is important. If you have the wrong lugnut you will damage the rim over time and there is a good chance the lugnuts will start to backout as well. Don't need any Hellcats throwing wheels off! OMG no!
 

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