Having mine installed tomorrow, switching to these from Eibach pro-kit springs. The stance won't look as good I'm sure but hoping for a softer ride and better weight transfer, less scraping as well.
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HHP springs intall
Installed the HHP springs today. I am not going tp list every step and the torque specs as those are easily found.
HHP said no realignment is necessary. I may do that in the future, but the difference in ride height is the difference of having 1, 2, 3 people in the car, or a full tank of gas versus almost empty, etc., so we'll wait and see. Car drives really good, though.
American Muscle has a good install video on it: video
And on the BMR site they have directions for installing their springs, but it's all the same. Go to this link and then click on "installation" down a little ways on the page. BMR installation instructions
There are a couple of ways to do the rear springs. In the AM video, they remove the inside A-Arm bolt and drop the A arm from there. If you do it this way, you have to drop the exhaust some to get one of the bolts out. That's pretty much how the BMR directions are, but they have you remove the caliper and also remove the bolt for the lower trailing arm.
In all it took about 3.5 hours with two of us (though my assistant helped about 70% of that time), and the total time just depends on how stubborn the suspension parts want to be coming apart and especially going back together. If doing it again, I am sure we could do the whole job in 2 hours if we were both completely focused on it, and after having done it once. Some of the rear suspension bolts were a bear to reinstall. That's typical with suspension stuff.
Here is the difference in ride height with the HHP springs for all four corners compared to the stock springs.
Front left: plus 13/16; Front right: 0
Rear left: minus 1/8; Rear right: minus 7/16
Here is a pic of the stock front springs compared with the HHP spring
![Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Black-and-white Font]()
Installed:
![Automotive tire Gas Engineering Auto part Automotive wheel system]()
Rear springs side by side:
![Tire Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread Rim]()
Rear springs installed
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Hood Vehicle]()
We used this Eastwood strut spring compressor. Worked awesome. I researched tool options quite a bit, and this seemed to be the best made. The directions say not to use an impact on it, but reading reviews online, etc., lots of people do. It worked flawlessly. Seemed very safe. $165.00 from Eastwood.
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive design Bumper]()
![Automotive tire Tire Black Motor vehicle Rectangle]()
![Automotive tire Rectangle Font Electric blue Gas]()
All and all, it wasn't too bad of an install. The rear springs actually took longer because it was tough to get the bolts back in the arms and the lower shock.
The biggest worry with this install is probably compressing the springs for the front struts. I felt the Eastwood tool was very safe and solidly built and dependable.
The car drives good. I can't tell much of a difference, but I don't drive it that much just cruising around town. We will see what difference it makes at the track.
As I stated in the drag racing 101 thread I made, this isn't a necessity for 10 second cars or even high 9 second cars if they race on an excellent track with excellent prep. But it's one more thing to (hopefully) add consistency for bracket racing for me, and help me on my home track which is challenging (we'll see). I have run a 1.53 and 1.54, but my 1/8 mile 6.80 at 4400 DA in my sig was a 1.58. I think I can do quite a bit better, but we'll see in a couple of weeks. My goal is to hit high 6.60s in the fall when the good air comes back and I have fresh tires. That would be solid for a 2.85 pulley and 93 fuel at 4500 DA. I would like to go back to a 305-17 tire, too, so this might get me closer to being able to do that.
If I have something messed up that you see in the pics, thanks in advance for the heads up.
HHP said no realignment is necessary. I may do that in the future, but the difference in ride height is the difference of having 1, 2, 3 people in the car, or a full tank of gas versus almost empty, etc., so we'll wait and see. Car drives really good, though.
American Muscle has a good install video on it: video
And on the BMR site they have directions for installing their springs, but it's all the same. Go to this link and then click on "installation" down a little ways on the page. BMR installation instructions
There are a couple of ways to do the rear springs. In the AM video, they remove the inside A-Arm bolt and drop the A arm from there. If you do it this way, you have to drop the exhaust some to get one of the bolts out. That's pretty much how the BMR directions are, but they have you remove the caliper and also remove the bolt for the lower trailing arm.
In all it took about 3.5 hours with two of us (though my assistant helped about 70% of that time), and the total time just depends on how stubborn the suspension parts want to be coming apart and especially going back together. If doing it again, I am sure we could do the whole job in 2 hours if we were both completely focused on it, and after having done it once. Some of the rear suspension bolts were a bear to reinstall. That's typical with suspension stuff.
Here is the difference in ride height with the HHP springs for all four corners compared to the stock springs.
Front left: plus 13/16; Front right: 0
Rear left: minus 1/8; Rear right: minus 7/16
Here is a pic of the stock front springs compared with the HHP spring
Installed:
Rear springs side by side:
Rear springs installed
We used this Eastwood strut spring compressor. Worked awesome. I researched tool options quite a bit, and this seemed to be the best made. The directions say not to use an impact on it, but reading reviews online, etc., lots of people do. It worked flawlessly. Seemed very safe. $165.00 from Eastwood.
All and all, it wasn't too bad of an install. The rear springs actually took longer because it was tough to get the bolts back in the arms and the lower shock.
The biggest worry with this install is probably compressing the springs for the front struts. I felt the Eastwood tool was very safe and solidly built and dependable.
The car drives good. I can't tell much of a difference, but I don't drive it that much just cruising around town. We will see what difference it makes at the track.
As I stated in the drag racing 101 thread I made, this isn't a necessity for 10 second cars or even high 9 second cars if they race on an excellent track with excellent prep. But it's one more thing to (hopefully) add consistency for bracket racing for me, and help me on my home track which is challenging (we'll see). I have run a 1.53 and 1.54, but my 1/8 mile 6.80 at 4400 DA in my sig was a 1.58. I think I can do quite a bit better, but we'll see in a couple of weeks. My goal is to hit high 6.60s in the fall when the good air comes back and I have fresh tires. That would be solid for a 2.85 pulley and 93 fuel at 4500 DA. I would like to go back to a 305-17 tire, too, so this might get me closer to being able to do that.
If I have something messed up that you see in the pics, thanks in advance for the heads up.
1 - 3 of 62 Posts
Here's my Hellcat after HHP springs going from Eibach pro-kit. Sitting on 335/30/20 front and 345/30/20 rear, 20x12 squared, for an idea of tire height. Here are the before with Eibachs:
Not the best picture comparison as far as angles go but what I've got for now. The ride is MUCH better on the HHP springs, stance of course MUCH better on the eibachs. Haven't done a WOT pull yet to feel weight transfer difference with HHP's but I'm happy with the ride improvement and that the ride height didn't increase to an extreme extent with HHP. A little taller tire will likely fill in the fender gaps nicely.
1 - 3 of 62 Posts
