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How to: DYI Spark Plug change on Hellcat

48K views 55 replies 34 participants last post by  devildoghellcat 
#1 · (Edited)
First, tips from the Dodge Maintenance Manual:

Removing Ignition Coils
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Removing Spark Plugs
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Installing Spark Plugs
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IMPORTANT - if you are not experienced working on cars, I would not recommend doing this job - its not fun and requires lots of patience and contorting you arms and wrists into tight areas.

DYI - how to do the job:

1) Open trunk, lift rear access panel, disconnect negative terminal and isolate - I used a 6" x 6" rubber pad. Do not close trunk or you will need to jump a battery to open.
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2) Use fender protection. I like using a towel and painters tape - it stays in place!
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Comment: Starting at Step 3, I think its best to complete the driver side up to step 8; then complete the passenger side up to step 8.

3) On the driver side, remove the air cleaner assembly and loosen larger coolant reservoir bolts with a 10mm socket. The reservoir does not need to be removed, just moved around some during coil pack removal and installation. Move A/C lines towards fender to access coil packs.
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On the passenger side, remove oil dipstick then undo the 10mm nuts that hold the small coolant reservoir in place and carefully secure out of the way up near the supercharger.
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Next, take off the fuse panel cover and press the detents on the lower section so that the lower fuse panel and plastic cover by the windshield wiper filler come loose; there are a few push pins under the main battery wire that you will need to pry open. Then, using a flat blade screwdriver covered with tape to prevent scratching the fender, pry the wire harness away from the fender. All of these steps will allow you to move the harness just enough up out of the way for coil pack removal.

4) Start removing coil packs using a combination of a 10mm socket, extensions, u-joint, and ratchet. As you go down the cylinder bank, the combination will need to change as you work around the A/C lines, coolant lines and wire harness.
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As you can see, I chose to remove the coil packs so I could clean and inspect because they were dirty, like this:
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To remove the connector, pull the red latch backwards and press at the area under the latch and pull...this will take some effort and finesse.

Note: you can leave the coil pack connected. The only ones I could not remove were the rear one on each side...just couldn't get the detent on the connector to release due to the tight space.

Important: If you leave coil packs attached to the feed wires, you will need to carefully move them down below the spark plug tubes with the boots pointing up so you have room to get to the next coil pack.

5) Prepare to remove the spark plugs & prepare your new plugs. First, using compressed air, blow out the spark plug tube. There will be dirt in there. Also, check/adjust the gap on your plugs and lubricate the thread with nickel-graphite anti-seize.
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6) Remove the spark plugs by using a 5/8" spark plug socket that has the foam inside that will grip the plug so that you can can pull it out of the tube. Again, I had to use various combinations of extensions and u-joints on the back plugs.

7) Using a piece of 1/4" ID fuel hose which you slip over the top of the spark-plug, begin installing the plugs. This allows you to carefully lower the plug into position and once seated, begin tightening the spark plug. This method will also help prevent cross-threading the plug. Once it is finger tight, pull hose off of plug and carefully torque spark plug to 20 ft./#s using a regular 5/8" socket and extensions/u-joints as needed.
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(You can see how to position a coil pack if you do not remove in this picture; it was for the second cylinder back)

8) Reinstall coil packs and connectors. I did put a small smear of Dielectric grease at the top of the boot (at coil pack) to help keep the tubes clean and dry - I did not put at the tip of the boot per Dodge's directions.

9) After coil packs are reinstalled, reinstall all moved components back to their original position and conditions. Reconnect battery.

FYI: here is a comparison picture of the original Bosch plugs on the right and the cooler running Brisk plugs on the left. It is my understanding that they are cooler running due to the electrode being less exposed.
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Inspect your work! Make sure all is right before starting your Hellcat back up.
 
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#4 ·
Nice write up! I just found out there were 2 plugs per cylinder by reading this. Thanks for the write up. This should be a sticky.
 
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#11 ·
Ok your picture shows a protected tip plug er14s vs the stock plug. You stated you used the er14ys in another post as did I. So your using the er14s? I was curious about this plug but I didn't want to chance going to a protected tip for daily driving and colds starts.
 
#15 ·
It takes me about 3 hrs on my 5.7 Charger Daytona and it has a lot easier access than my HC...and t took me a lot longer the first time I changed them due to the learning process. Figure how much time it takes just to remove one plug from it's box, check the gap and prep the threads with anti-seize. You should do that in advance. Let's say 5 minutes each if everything goes smoothly x 16. That's 80 minutes right there! Ok, you might be able to do it in 4 minutes each. If you can remove the coil packs and boots in 10 minutes per each (your back is feeling it about now) that's another 80 minutes. Now how fast can you hand thread 16 plugs, torque them and reinstall the coil packs and boots? It is a chore but I just don't like anyone else messing with my baby!
 
#35 ·
Reviving this thread to add my .02
It's not that bad. Honestly it isn't. It took me about 2.5 hours and I could probably do it in under two the next time.
My tip is on the passenger side once you move the intercooler reservoir. Bend the metal bracket flat (don't worry it's easy to bend it back once you're done). This will allow you to pull the wiring harness over it and rest it there. Once you've done this there is PLENTY of room to work and get the coil packs off. In fact once I got that harness far enough out of the way it made the passenger side actually easier than the driver side.
Don't be intimidated by the stories of how hard it is, because it isn't and DON'T pay $500 for someone else to do it.
If an idiot like me can do it ANYONE can.
 
#38 ·
Yes, agree, it’s not that bad. I’m actually pulling the plugs today to do an inspection leak down test. Driver side is cake, passenger side due to insulation on the blower cooler lines have to separate the cooler lines from the blower. I have caps and plugs at the ready and loose very little coolant. Going back together now.
This is new plugs after 3000 miles on corn, clean as the day they went in.
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#45 ·
Issue resolved, the 2302 code is in regards to the 1st cylinder, which I realized at 1am was the only coil pack that I took the plug off of, the rest I didn’t even try to due to the lack of space, go figure, I hadn’t put the plug all the way back on, hence the code. 10 min this morning and right as rain. Huge difference from plugs that were way past due.
 
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