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· Left Shark
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I'm going to change my order to Jazz Blue and I think I want to go with the Sepia Laguna for that color car. Is there any type of treatment to preserve the color and condition so will always look like new? I've never had a car with a light colored interior (lighter than dark grey). Seems like over time they might darken or get dirty, maybe absorb some body oils, especially in the warmer southern states during summer.

Would something like Scotch Guard work? Can you even Scotch Guard leather?
 

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I'm going to change my order to Jazz Blue and I think I want to go with the Sepia Laguna for that color car. Is there any type of treatment to preserve the color and condition so will always look like new? I've never had a car with a light colored interior (lighter than dark grey). Seems like over time they might darken or get dirty, maybe absorb some body oils, especially in the warmer southern states during summer.

Would something like Scotch Guard work? Can you even Scotch Guard leather?
I own Leather Coatings, Inc. Your leather is sealed with a clear coating, both for protection from grime, and UV rays. Use a white wash cloth (no dyes) with warm water, and a very mild facial soap NO SCRUB. Wipe of with rinsed warm wash cloth. Treat it like it was your skin ;) One of my products that I personally do not retail, others do is DYO Leather Balm. Use this once a month on smooth leather, do not use on your dash as the sun will affect it, then it will migrate to your windshield. Also the DYO Leather Balm will repel oils from you skin etc. Most shoe shops have it, or it's on Amazon. :D
ALSO ~ when you get in and out of you car(s) make sure your rear (and passengers') clears the bolster parts of your leather seating, if not you will abrade the clear coating and dyed surfaces ..
 

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Juan Carlos... Given you obviously know something about leather care.... What do you think of Lexol cleaner and conditioner? I've used both for years on many cars and the leather seems to hold up very well but I'd be curious to see what you have to say about Lexol good or bad. Thx.
 

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Juan Carlos... Given you obviously know something about leather care.... What do you think of Lexol cleaner and conditioner? I've used both for years on many cars and the leather seems to hold up very well but I'd be curious to see what you have to say about Lexol good or bad. Thx.
They also have very good products. They do retail mostly, my company does more of the "private label" products.
 

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They also have very good products. They do retail mostly, my company does more of the "private label" products.
Good to know that Lexol is decent. It's the best I've found but I'm sure there are many other great products I don't know about. I try to clean and my seats at least once a month. It seems to work for me as the leather always looks new and it's soft.
 

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You do not need to "apply" anything to new leather! Just keep it clean....;)
Well I use as a surface sealer not cleaner, or conditioner. Does that well. To each his own on approach. Just sharing seemed on topic wanted to help :)
 

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Well I use as a surface sealer not cleaner, or conditioner. Does that well. To each his own on approach. Just sharing seemed on topic wanted to help :)
I appreciate your sharing of that, thanks. But one just does not need to add another layer of anything on top of a new leather surface. I would equate that to clear coating your clear coat, on new paint; if that makes sense. Keep it simple, clean and condition, unless it's worn.
 

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Good to know that Lexol is decent. It's the best I've found but I'm sure there are many other great products I don't know about. I try to clean and my seats at least once a month. It seems to work for me as the leather always looks new and it's soft.
Something to keep in mind - most leather in modern cars is typically urethane coated. Using a leather "conditioner" on coated leather isn't really doing you any favors since the feeder oils can't penetrate the coating. In fact, the oils left sitting on the surface will actually attract dirt and grime faster than a surface that is just clean. That can lead to a "sandpaper" effect, breaking down the urethane. Just be sure of what type of leather you're dealing with before deciding on a maintenance regimen.

I appreciate your sharing of that, thanks. But one just does not need to add another layer of anything on top of a new leather surface. I would equate that to clear coating your clear coat, on new paint; if that makes sense. Keep it simple, clean and condition, unless it's worn.
To be fair, there ARE some products on the market that have functional benefits when applied to brand new leather; namely, additional UV inhibitors to prevent the urethane top coat from degrading with repeated sun exposure, as well as stain resistance.
 

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I've used Lexol a lot and been happy with it. I purchased Leather Honey cleaner and a conditioner recently. Supposedly a little better but haven't tested yet. It would be helpful to know if the Sepia seats are coated or not.
 

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Something to keep in mind - most leather in modern cars is typically urethane coated. Using a leather "conditioner" on coated leather isn't really doing you any favors since the feeder oils can't penetrate the coating. In fact, the oils left sitting on the surface will actually attract dirt and grime faster than a surface that is just clean. That can lead to a "sandpaper" effect, breaking down the urethane. Just be sure of what type of leather you're dealing with before deciding on a maintenance regimen.



To be fair, there ARE some products on the market that have functional benefits when applied to brand new leather; namely, additional UV inhibitors to prevent the urethane top coat from degrading with repeated sun exposure, as well as stain resistance.
To be clear ~ "Applied" for cleaning or conditioning yes, not for sealing or resealing type of "applied". You would not want to apply a permanent coating of any kind to any new leather especially Sepia.
Luxurious Sepia Laguna leather now adorns SRT interiors. driveSRT News
 

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I've used Lexol a lot and been happy with it. I purchased Leather Honey cleaner and a conditioner recently. Supposedly a little better but haven't tested yet. It would be helpful to know if the Sepia seats are coated or not.
a little off topic but the nappa leather has to be conditioned right away to prevent creases...my seats look like they were never sat in after one year
a little off topic but the nappa leather has to be conditioned right away to prevent creases...my seats look like they were never sat in after one year
Here is some good information.Luxurious Sepia Laguna leather now adorns SRT interiors. driveSRT News
 

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To be clear ~ "Applied" for cleaning or conditioning yes, not for sealing or resealing type of "applied". You would not want to apply a permanent coating of any kind to any new leather especially Sepia.
Luxurious Sepia Laguna leather now adorns SRT interiors. driveSRT News
You can apply a permanent coating (designed for such purpose) to new coated leather. Since the Sepia in particular is semi-aniline, you are correct that you wouldn't want to install a coating unless the product specifies compatibility. I know of at least one product produced by a company in the UK specifically intended for aniline and semi-aniline leathers, which may be worth further investigating:

Aniline LeatherGuard Protector LTT Leather Care
 

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You can apply a permanent coating (designed for such purpose) to new coated leather. Since the Sepia in particular is semi-aniline, you are correct that you wouldn't want to install a coating unless the product specifies compatibility. I know of at least one product produced by a company in the UK specifically intended for aniline and semi-aniline leathers, which may be worth further investigating:

Aniline LeatherGuard Protector LTT Leather Care
Mr. Hahn, this is my company. We have been in this business for 3 decades at this location, 5 decades in all. Masters degree in chemistry. Please do not permanently apply anything to this beautiful Sepia leather, keep it clean, condition it, and by all means let it age gracefully. Thank you very much. Leather Coatings Dressings Conditioners Cleaners Dyes
 

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I own Leather Coatings, Inc. Your leather is sealed with a clear coating, both for protection from grime, and UV rays. Use a white wash cloth (no dyes) with warm water, and a very mild facial soap NO SCRUB. Wipe of with rinsed warm wash cloth. Treat it like it was your skin ;) One of my products that I personally do not retail, others do is DYO Leather Balm. Use this once a month on smooth leather, do not use on your dash as the sun will affect it, then it will migrate to your windshield. Also the DYO Leather Balm will repel oils from you skin etc. Most shoe shops have it, or it's on Amazon. :D
ALSO ~ when you get in and out of you car(s) make sure your rear (and passengers') clears the bolster parts of your leather seating, if not you will abrade the clear coating and dyed surfaces ..
I am sorry, but are you recommending the BYO balm for sepia, or not? What do you recommend for UV protection?
 

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I bought the DYO as well as the Lexol stuff. But still Im not sure what to use or when to use it.
 

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When in doubt, read the tag that was on your Sepia leather headrest when you received car. Clearly says warm wet towel to wipe off, and dry with another towel. Just as Juan-Escobar states above.
 

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found this:
SEMI-ANILINE VS. ANILINE LEATHERS
The most commonly asked question by the consumer regarding leather upholstery is whether or not the leather is aniline dyed. Unfortunately, the average consumer does not understand what aniline dyed leather is. Most consumers believe that aniline dyed leather is the best leather available because it has been dyed all the way through with the same color; thus, a hide should be the same color on both the front and back. Indeed, this is a feature of aniline dyed leather, but pure aniline leather has other features that may not meet the consumer's needs. The following paragraphs should clarify the difference between semi-aniline leather and pure aniline leather. Keep in mind that the term "semi" is actually a misnomer; it does not mean partial. In fact, a more appropriate name for semi-aniline leather would be aniline plus pigment.

Semi-aniline leathers or aniline plus pigments (AP) are dyed in vats with aniline dyes that penetrate throughout the hide so that the color goes all the way through the hide. However, the processing of semi-aniline leathers is taken a few steps further. After the leather is aniline dyed, a pigment color is applied to the top of the hide to guarantee a consistent color on the top surface of the hide. Next, additional finishes may be applied to the leather by hand or by machine to impart an antique look or some other special effect. Finally, a clear protective coating is applied to make the leather stain repellant and sun resistant. The sheen of this protective coating can be varied to give a matte finish or a high gloss finish.

Likewise, pure aniline leathers (A) are dyed in vats with aniline dyes that penetrate throughout the hide so that the color permeates and goes all the way through the hide. However, neither a surface pigment color nor a protective coating is applied. A hand antique finish may be applied. Because pure aniline leather does not have a pigment color applied to its top surface, there will be variations in color throughout the hide's surface. Also, the lack of a protective coating makes this leather more susceptible to staining and fading.

Finally, pure aniline leathers may also be distressed or buffed to create an open nap. These leathers are referred to as Nubucks (N). These options are the softest available and have a velvety feel, but are the most susceptible to fading and staining because of the open nap.

It is important that you understand the differences between semi-aniline (AP), pure aniline (A) and nubuck (N) leathers. It is also important that you understand that one type of leather is not more desirable than the other. Each leather appeals to a different customer. When selecting the leather that is right for you, your lifestyle and intended use should be taken into consideration. In general, softness and wearability are at opposing ends - pure anilines (A) or nubucks (N) are the softest, silkiest options available, but they will also scratch and are susceptible to fading and staining. Aniline plus pigments (AP) have a harder, firmer surface due to the topical treatments. These leathers are the easiest to maintain and keep clean, but they are not usually as soft.
 
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