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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all. I have installed the Bwoody HE and BMR reservoir tank. I have bled the system and all that. I get a "IC coolant low" CEL at the top end of the track.

I have talked to the people at BMR and also FI interchillers and a couple others about upgrading the stock IC pump. The feedback I've gotten is that the stock pump is lacking and once they air lock like mine did, they tend to not last as long. BMR explained that due to the higher volume of coolant and the higher temps reached at the end of the track, the CEL will come on because the stock pump does not handle additional head pressure well at all.

From reading on this site and the internet generally, the only time people seem to upgrade the pump is when they install a trunk mounted ice tank, so I know there are people out there who have some experience with aftermarket pumps.

The two choices, or recommendations, that I've gotten:

Stewart EMP E2512A (sold out everywhere and not available until maybe November). I think that's the right PN but not positive.

or

CWA400

I've been told that they will work without tuning changes, though sometimes you may get a CEL, and something in the tune related to that will need to be changed, and others have said no problem will work just fine. I am good with making a mounting bracket and doing whatever I need to with the hoses/lines. No problem there. It's easy to access the stock pump through the wheelwell after removing the liner.

Are there other options I should consider? What other issues might I run into to? Anything else I need to consider with this? Any advice is appreciated. This is a car that is raced often but sees street use and needs to be dependable.

I will also be talking to my tuner about it.

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

Have to leave the sub in the car, so no trunk mounted reservoir/ice box.

What pump are you using on your system? Did it cause any issues with CEL or tuning?
 

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2019 Redeye
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Pump is CWA400. Spendy but with the cost of the motor build you just can’t afford to shortcut this part.
My builder and tuner hasn’t mentioned any tuning issues. I do get a coolant low message from time to time but with 8 gals of extra coolant on board I can’t foresee any problems. Elton says the car will eventually figure it out Thy have a lot of experience with these systems ,they would know. I’ve seen super low temps especially when you load the tank with ice. That’s what kills these ultra high hp modded motors.
I love the piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Awesome! That is the pump that is available, so I am going to get that one.

Are you saying that running a little anti freeze in the system affects whether the CEL comes on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes when it gets cold enough
doesn’t take much
Here is the wiring for the CWA400 pump:

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Any ideas on the wiring for the stock pump? I have a service manual, but it's a pdf and all the wiring diagrams in it are so fuzzy I can't even read them (and yes I was wearing my trifocals). It's a pain to use since you just have to scroll through everything.

Planning to install the pump next week and trying to get things as figured out as possible before working on it.

Or is the layout typically the same for all pumps like this? It would be the same as above, but maybe a different style connector on the wire harness for the stock pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I contacted HHP and they checked with one of their tech guys, and the wiring from stock to CWA pump would be the following:

Stock CWA400
1 . . . . . . .4
2 3
3 2
4 1

They also said that it should work without having to do anything in the tune, but if there is an issue, they can turn off whatever needs to be turned off, etc.

Will find out soon enough when I install the new pump, probably this week.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes when it gets cold enough
doesn’t take much

So the inlet and outlet of the CWA pump is 1.5" and the stock hellcat pump is 1". I did find some hose online that reduces from 1.5" to 1", but of course nobody has it local, and the only couplers to be found are 1.5 to 1.25. Trying to avoid fabbing our own couplers. For your system, how is it plumbed for the CWA pump as far as the line size and couplers are do you have 1.5" hose throughout, etc.? Or do I have the wrong pump?

In the pic you posted looks like yo have a big old AN fitting and large hose on the outlet of your tank. Is that 1 1/2" hose?
 

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I had my builder run 1 1/2 on both inlet and return.
don’t know if it was absolutely needed but I run constantly 10 degrees above ambient. Cruising down the highway it stays about 5 degrees or less than ambient.
when I drop it in track mode it cools right on down10 to 15 degrees below ambient.
that’s about as good as it gets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sounds like that works.

We are just going to make our own couplers out of aluminum to get from the 1 1/2" inlet/outlet on the new pump to the 3/4" hose in the rest of the system.

Made one of the brackets for mounting the pump, and will make the second bracket tomorrow. Had to take the front fascia off to work on this. Basically removed the bracket that holds the stock HE on the drivers side and is also held in place by two of the IC pump bolts.

The clocking on the new pump is just fine, but the mounting tabs are way off, so you have to make your own brackets for it. Who would have thought that a pump made for a BMW wouldn't just mount right up in a Hellcat.

Thanks for the help!
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
In an effort to boldly go where nobody (sensible) has gone before, we installed the CWA400 pump in the stock location. Below are pics of the brackets we made and the reducers. When I say "we", I mean that I sanded the brackets, bead blasted them, spray painted them, and installed them, and uncle did everything else, lol. For the reducers, the issue is the CWA pump has 1.5" inlet and outlet and the stock pump has 1". Here is a link for a place that sells hoses that go from 1.5 to 1". 1.5 to 1" hose . I would suggest going that route, unless you have a lathe and just like making stuff. Napa didn't have anything close. My uncle machined reducers out of aluminum because we wanted to get it done, but I would strongly suggest buying the hoses and then you would need a 1" to 1" barbed adapter to put everything together.

The small factory HE and the pump sit in a steel frame sort of thing, so you can take that out and build the brackets, etc on the work bench. We removed the front fascia. Took 10 minutes. We've done it a couple of times before. Well, about a dozen times if you include taking it on and off while checking fitment for the Bwoody HE when trimming the fascia.

The clocking of the CWA pump is actually about perfect, but the mounted tabs are completely in the wrong place.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Actually, what someone would do is get the 1.5 to 1" hose I linked to above, and then get a 1" to 3/4" hose barb adapter. That would be pretty slick.

Bhoward and I were discussing the EMP pump, which you can't get right now, and a considerations in trying to mount that in the stock location are the size of the EMP pump. It quite a bit bigger. The 400 pump is pretty compact, and it only has 4 wires, just like the stock pump.

I am still finishing up the wiring so we will see what the computer thinks of the pump when I am done with that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got the wiring done and ran the car for a few minutes. All appears to be good to go. Will test drive it in the next few days.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
The pump is not working. Here is what's happened so far. Initially I wired it up and then as soon as I hooked the battery up, the pump started running. So I looked at the diagram stuff posted above and saw that I had something turned around. Well, I switched it and the pump still didn't run. I have tried all the combinations you can. There are two 10g wires and 2 16 g, and I haven't gone from 10g to 16g cause it just doesn't seem like that would even be an option.

So, I wire it up the way I had it originally where it comes on as soon as the battery is hooked up, and the pump doesn't come on, in fact made a strange noise I think in the hose.

I think it's air locked, same as the last one did. It should have come on when I hooked up the battery but nothing.

I know I don't have a vacuum leak because I put the vacuum to it and it held it constant the other day when I filled it up.

Maybe the stock system is designed in such a way that it's susceptible to getting air stuck in it and it's very finicky. Seems like a number of people have had issues with this. I've never had a problems with a cooling system before like this.

So, I have thought about this some more and I am dealing with two problems. One is the air in the system problem and the other is figuring out the new pump.

I am going to put the stock pump back on and remove the BMR reservoir and see if I can get the system/car to work properly.

Anyway, that's what I am going to do and just try to get the car running. If it were winter, that's one thing, but it's summer and the car needs to be running.

In other words, strike one. (Two? Three?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Bhoward is working on this same project on his car, and so the baton has been passed (for now) on this mod. I have to get the car driveable again, lol.
 
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Damn. I'm sorry to hear about these problems.
I want to thank you for the write up pictures, and explanations.
You're a benefit to the community and I appreciate the insights you're providing.
 
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