Did you do any work on the LTR system?

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I have the bigger heat exchanger. Bled out all the air. It was working fine for a few hundred miles. Just took a dump today

 

I did the same upgrade and it took along time to get all the air out. You may have an air pocket. I got one in mine and tripped those codes. I could hear my pump start then stop start then stop over and over. I had to loosen the line off the pump while it was running ( I used my razer cooldown function) the tighten it back on and bleed it from there.

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Thanks. I will try it out in the morning.

 

Anyway to turn the pump on without the trazer? I only found a fuse. No relay.

 

Sorry not that I know of.

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Does anyone know the pin outs to the pump? I put power to it and no luck.

 

The pump has an internal module that requires a pwm signal to operate. Just supplying power to it won't make it turn on.

If you key on the car without actually starting the car, the pump actually turns on and runs at a very slow speed for 30 seconds. Might be enough to help you bleed out the air bubbles.

 

Easiest way is to use bleeder valve on the supercharger and use Tazer or Factory scanner tool.
In my opinion if you are going to keep this car for long time or invest on bolt on .... Then as well invest on Factory scanner.
If you are close to me I would help you.
Another thing you have to look for is cable connectors .
This pumps send the information to the ECM that have algoritam that can sense to low or to high amperage draw to turn this codes if threshold is reached.
Do what hpindy have suggested and if still is giving you trouble check cable connectors and pump.

 

Would a tazer from a scat pack work to run the pump?

 

Yes. Make sure it is " unmarried" from the previous vehicle.

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I had luck just cracking the sc coolant tanks after a few hot drives.

 

I will try this again.

 

I

i checked my pump took out the inlet and outlet hoses and them pump never turned on with the car on and i there is voltage running to the pump sending out 14V and the hoses that run into the pump and inside the pump had some white residue almost like hard plastic. Did you replace your IC pump?

 

Easy way to check the pump is to manually open the throttle body all the way. You will hear the pump turn on.

 

170 IC temp is way too high.

 

Yep that’s why I’m here

 

You have a major problem. I wouldn't drive the car.

 

How long does it take to get to that temp? And under what conditions?

 

Was the system worked on recently? A pocket of air will do that.

For a car that is stock, first thing is to crack open the bleed valve which is at the back passenger side of the super charger. You need a 10 mm and 7 mm combo wrenches. Put a rag under the valve just to catch the coolant that comes out. If there is air in the system, when you open the valve no coolant will come out for a few seconds, and then the coolant will come out. It won't spray all over, so don't worry about that. Just kind of runs out.

Maybe there's a leak in the system? If you get a vacuum fill tool and hook it up you should see 22 inches of vacuum or around there and it should hold at that reading for a minute or more. If it doesn't you have a leak somewhere. If it holds vacuum, then I'd run the vacuum tool while the pump/car is running. When I've done this, I use my tazer burnbox that has a cooldown mode so just the pump is running.

 

I have a 2018 dodge hellcat, I was driving find with engine light on because the intercooler pump, my coolant levels are fine. But one day I came out to go to work and the care was completely dead. I tried to jump it and nothing then it started but there was smoke coming from the intercooler pump.