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I have had a truck where the stereo cost more than the truck. I got the HK stereo just so the wires were already in place to be replaced by higher-gauge wires and better components by an audio shop. If nothing else, the old wires can be used as a fishtape to pull the new ones in. (I'm a fan of low resistance and impedance. It's not about NEED it's about WANT.)

Having basked in the glory that is 1200 watts of Sub-bass, 450 watts of mid-bass, and 320 watts of mids-and-highs, I don't find the stock HK stereo to be particularly thrilling, but I guess it's a matter of personal taste and the fact that I haven't listened to MY music on it, yet. (Just got car, it's been trips to inspection facility and now Dodge, and the tire store to get it all ready for reg. and ins.)
 

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Those disappointing with the Harmon Kardon must be used to high-end stuff as it sounds pretty good to me. For 18-19 speakers or whatever it has, it certainly isn't mind-blowing.
The Alpine that was in my 18's Scatpack was absolute garbage however, especially the bass.
Agreed. I was not going to buy a car without HK. I didn't want to bother with all the work of installing a whole new system. Other than it could be louder with all the windows down on the highway, nothing wrong with the HK
 

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I have had a truck where the stereo cost more than the truck. I got the HK stereo just so the wires were already in place to be replaced by higher-gauge wires and better components by an audio shop. If nothing else, the old wires can be used as a fishtape to pull the new ones in. (I'm a fan of low resistance and impedance. It's not about NEED it's about WANT.)

Having basked in the glory that is 1200 watts of Sub-bass, 450 watts of mid-bass, and 320 watts of mids-and-highs, I don't find the stock HK stereo to be particularly thrilling, but I guess it's a matter of personal taste and the fact that I haven't listened to MY music on it, yet. (Just got car, it's been trips to inspection facility and now Dodge, and the tire store to get it all ready for reg. and ins.)
no reputable shop would ever use the factory wiring in a complete rebuild. With the factory amp setup I would never run anything other than the HK sub enclosure on it and you're going to need signal processing of some sort to run anything aftermarket properly. You could use the factory wires to fish your aftermaret wiring as they are taped up and intertwined with other harnesses and arent able to be fished like that. Besides, there really isnt any part of the challenger that is particularly even remotely difficult to fish wiring through. These are an installers dream.
 

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Thats's great news, Venomous. It's always good to hear they are not a bear to work on for upgrades of any sort, as the idea of my whole interior having to be disemboweled to run wires does not appeal to me.
 

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Thats's great news, Venomous. It's always good to hear they are not a bear to work on for upgrades of any sort, as the idea of my whole interior having to be disemboweled to run wires does not appeal to me.
they dont take apart your entire interior. If you decided to run a add-on sub to your setup you can literally do the entire install inside the trunk with the car locked. The battery is back there, the rear speakers and sub (in the alpine upgraded and HK setup) are in the trunk as well for your LOC (Line output convertor). I Just did my sub install and the only reason I got into the car was to fiddle around with box placement. I grabbed my signal wires from my factory sub under the rear deck, I didnt even have to remove the panel below the deck, just took the clips towards the rear out and let it hang down a couple inches to give me access. I ran the wiring over the cover panel and down through the passenger side trunk panel (again didnt remove anything, just poked the wires down as far as I could easily and poked my hand up from the bottom and grabbed them. I ran my power from the battery and ground from the ground point 2" from the battery + connection.ran the wiring down along the bottom of the trunk (all under the false floor that is removable (i actually did take this out just to simplify having to keep it folded back during install). I landed power and ground for my amp and my LOC, input to my LOC, RCA out to my amp and my LOC has signal sensing remote output to turn on my amp as well... done. Could literally have done the entire install in 20 minutes had I been so inclined... instead took my time (didnt want to modify the car at all) and spent an hour and a half roughly.
 

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I know this thread is mostly about the HK system in the Challengers, but is it worth it in the Chargers? I've seen many without it but if it's a huge difference between the Alpine and HK I just might have to find one with it.
 

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I know this thread is mostly about the HK system in the Challengers, but is it worth it in the Chargers? I've seen many without it but if it's a huge difference between the Alpine and HK I just might have to find one with it.
from what ive gathered the $995 alpine sounds nearly identical to the HK that's $1595 the difference being the sub is more on the HK. I'd be curious to hear someones opinion that has had both in a challenger or charger.
 

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I have a challenger hellcat the Harman subwoofer isn’t bad has decent BANG to it but the speakers within the car they are straight garbage the magnets are a size of quarter I’m in the middle of actually getting speaker upgrade in my car they are such crap

Don’t wanna hate on the hk but the interior highs need to be wayyyy louder Than they they actually max out the subs over power the highs with equalizer mods and highs maxed out and the bass halfway
 

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they dont take apart your entire interior. If you decided to run a add-on sub to your setup you can literally do the entire install inside the trunk with the car locked. The battery is back there, the rear speakers and sub (in the alpine upgraded and HK setup) are in the trunk as well for your LOC (Line output convertor). I Just did my sub install and the only reason I got into the car was to fiddle around with box placement. I grabbed my signal wires from my factory sub under the rear deck, I didnt even have to remove the panel below the deck, just took the clips towards the rear out and let it hang down a couple inches to give me access. I ran the wiring over the cover panel and down through the passenger side trunk panel (again didnt remove anything, just poked the wires down as far as I could easily and poked my hand up from the bottom and grabbed them. I ran my power from the battery and ground from the ground point 2" from the battery + connection.ran the wiring down along the bottom of the trunk (all under the false floor that is removable (i actually did take this out just to simplify having to keep it folded back during install). I landed power and ground for my amp and my LOC, input to my LOC, RCA out to my amp and my LOC has signal sensing remote output to turn on my amp as well... done. Could literally have done the entire install in 20 minutes had I been so inclined... instead took my time (didnt want to modify the car at all) and spent an hour and a half roughly.
Great news. And one of the reasons I wanted the HK sub back there. Possible re-use of pre-existing (in this case signal) wiring.

I never run a sub without a capacitor. To find out why, dig up the thread "The Importance of Capacitors" from the old car sound forum. In it Loud and Proud systematically dismantle the hysterical and factless arguments against using a capacitor with facts and mathematics. The assailants had for rebuttals their Credentials and Experience, and never once refuted a single fact he brought forth, or any of the math, with which no sane person can argue. Informative and kind of amusing.

In a nutshell, your power draw from your amplifier will be a stuttered DC current that is twice the frequency of your bass note. Placing a capacitor across the amplifier terminals eliminates this undulation from getting past the capacitor, and your electrical system only sees a smooth current draw without flutter, which is kinder to your electronics and your charging system.

A capacitor reduces voltage fluctuations at the terminals of whatever is drawing on the system, and reduces current fluctuation frequency on whatever is on the power supplying side of a system.

I will not discuss this any further. It has been exhaustively covered and proven with real-world experimental observation in that old thread, just like I'm not going to argue whether Einstein was right and if nuclear weapons actually work.
 

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Great news. And one of the reasons I wanted the HK sub back there. Possible re-use of pre-existing (in this case signal) wiring.

I never run a sub without a capacitor. To find out why, dig up the thread "The Importance of Capacitors" from the old car sound forum. In it Loud and Proud systematically dismantle the hysterical and factless arguments against using a capacitor with facts and mathematics. The assailants had for rebuttals their Credentials and Experience, and never once refuted a single fact he brought forth, or any of the math, with which no sane person can argue. Informative and kind of amusing.

In a nutshell, your power draw from your amplifier will be a stuttered DC current that is twice the frequency of your bass note. Placing a capacitor across the amplifier terminals eliminates this undulation from getting past the capacitor, and your electrical system only sees a smooth current draw without flutter, which is kinder to your electronics and your charging system.

A capacitor reduces voltage fluctuations at the terminals of whatever is drawing on the system, and reduces current fluctuation frequency on whatever is on the power supplying side of a system.

I will not discuss this any further. It has been exhaustively covered and proven with real-world experimental observation in that old thread, just like I'm not going to argue whether Einstein was right and if nuclear weapons actually work.
its funny you mention that specific thread... im very familiar with that string of posts. That was way back in late 2002 or early 2003 i believe.. very informative read for anyone honestly. I dont run caps, i have never run caps, i dont really care to run caps, but thats just my personal opinion for my person setup. Ive installed hundreds over the years and people love them. They are not snake oil, but they aren't something I personally care to incorporate in my builds.
 

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Also, did you know that the minimum cross section of steel body through which your current of your ground wire travels is the diameter or outer perimeter of the ground bolt/washer/lug times the thickness of the steel?

Example: a negative cable is attached to the body using a 2x1/2" ground bar. that's 5 inches of total perimeter around that lug by which and through which all current must travel.
546093

so, assuming 15 gauge steel, which may be generous, you get 5" x9/128 inches for a cross section, which is 0.352 inches. Since steel AT BEST has only 15 percent of the conductivity of copper, which yields an equivalent CSA of 0.052734375 square inches of copper.
Now, 1/0 (it's pronounced ONE OUGHT) cable has as its CSA of 0.331 f my math is right, so your lug is a nice size, but the interface with the steel has roughly 6x the resistance at that point. However, this interface perimeter expands outwards to where, at only 7.5" in diameter, the steel now conducts about as well as a 1/0 cable.

Thus, the body of the vehicle is a desirable ground path, IF your lugs are securely fastened.
 

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Also, did you know that the minimum cross section of steel body through which your current of your ground wire travels is the diameter or outer perimeter of the ground bolt/washer/lug times the thickness of the steel?

Example: a negative cable is attached to the body using a 2x1/2" ground bar. that's 5 inches of total perimeter around that lug by which and through which all current must travel.
View attachment 546093
so, assuming 15 gauge steel, which may be generous, you get 5" x9/128 inches for a cross section, which is 0.352 inches. Since steel AT BEST has only 15 percent of the conductivity of copper, which yields an equivalent CSA of 0.052734375 square inches of copper.
Now, 1/0 (it's pronounced ONE OUGHT) cable has as its CSA of 0.331 f my math is right, so your lug is a nice size, but the interface with the steel has roughly 6x the resistance at that point. However, this interface perimeter expands outwards to where, at only 7.5" in diameter, the steel now conducts about as well as a 1/0 cable.

Thus, the body of the vehicle is a desirable ground path, IF your lugs are securely fastened.
you realize we are talking about connecting an amplifier to a factory car stereo... all these unnecessary number sounding super smart but you havent spent any time talking about the only really curcial point of adding to a factory stereo and thats a DSP. Something like a Bit 10 or a BIT One is a MUST. JBL used to have a pretty trick piece that not only was a DSP but it was amplified 8 channels (the ms-8) that was very capable at an amazing price point. I always ran audison stuff because thats what we sold at my shop but one of my installers picked up an MS-8 as they were going out of program and put it in his wrangler... something that was never meant to sound good at all. That unit RTA'ed it self, did its own time alignment and staging, with 1 box mounted in the vehicle.

You seem intelligent, rather than try and argue whos got a bigger unit by pretending to work for NASA, why not talk back and forth about usable information to make this thread actually better. No one here gives a damn about the conductivity of the stamped steel in the car when it comes to a car amplifier. Even if someone was setting up a sound Q vehicle none of that would matter. Unless youre talking about running 50k watts in a car with 10 batteries and 30 12's, all of that is just semantics.
 

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Is the HK option just for the subwoofer and more speakers or is the radio upgraded also?
 

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Evidently, we are not in agreement, and shall never be so. Our interactions have thus come to a permanent end.

Pro110: Don't know. I just guessed that the HK had more sophisticated treatment of whatever the head unit put out. I am quite sure someone on here can accurately answer your query, however.
 

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Is the HK option just for the subwoofer and more speakers or is the radio upgraded also?
the radio is the same.... the amplifiers and speaker setup is different as the number of channels is greater with the HK as well. And you get the dual sub enclosure in the spare tire well as opposed to the small sub under the rear deck

@Himmelkat LOL.. thats your perrogative
 

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I like the Alpine over the Harmon Kardon, subs seem to just thump thump thump, anyway you want to hear the exaust all the time anyway.
That aint no lie...Ive always been all about great audio on my vehicles but to tell ya the truth...I've been having this redeye for 2 months and i can count with 1 hand the times i've worried about the Alpine sound...Once you are out and about the only sound u gonna care for is the exhaust note..its soo friggin bad ass...
 

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I have the Alpine in my 300C and the HK in my Hellcat. For me the Alpine, is mediocre at best. While you might be able to better the HK system with aftermarket parts, it is still a pain to get that done, and there are possible problems with warranty should you have issues with the head unit. Dealers are always looking for an excuse to void the warranty IMHO. By the way, I also have a C7 Vette with the top of the line Bose system, and I don't think it is quite as good as the HK system, but each person is different in what they like.

Phil
 

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I had the HK in my 15 HC. To me it was underwhelming for what "I" thought a 19 speaker 900 watt system should be. It didnt sound bad, just "is that it?" it was loud but didnt seem to have the range or quality I was expecting I guess.

I have the Alpine in my 392 TA and am just as happy with it. Actually more happy since it was $600 less.

Ive heard the charger has much better sound with the HK. Dunno.

I dont think Id get the base radio. I listened to it in a 1320 in the showroom. Sounds fine but I think it might be lacking in volume with the windows down. I dont know. For the $$ all of these cars should come minimum with the upgraded alpine.
I agree. They gave a base alpine, upgraded alpine and a HK.
for me, I have the 392 with the base alpine and it sounds great windows down I crank the volume to 20-22 and it’s plenty loud.
Doubt I’d do an HK, maybe an upgrade alpine, however the base is great.

My 392 Charger (Scat) has the Beats.... and it kind of sucked I have to keep cranking the volume to the 30s for it to sound good...
 

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The HK sucks the speakers magnets are the size of quarters and have no power I’m not a huge music person but I like my shit yo have good sound I already looked into getting it upgraded will be doing it shortly
 
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