[lovellgsxr]

Got my car lowered with eibach kit. Also got all of the control arms and had a professional shop install it. And every since then I've been breaking axles. This is my 3rd set and warranty was giving dodge a hard time so I said nevermind imma just get everything beefed up. But b4 I order demon axles I wanted to ask u guys and gals what u think it is. No use in installing the new ones until I figure this out. The car also seems to be floating in the rear. And when I get on it a little bit the rear is skating around sorta like I'm breaking traction but I'm not. My 2015 is lowered and it has been fine for2yrs. None of the shops can find anything. It's a 2020 challenger widebody BTW. Any advice would be appreciated. And I also jear a bad rattling sound coming from the rear driver side inside the hub I guess. Maybe cv joints? Idk.

 

[motorheadmike]

Dude... you already have the beefed up factory axles (all widebodies and REs do).

The aftermarket offerings are very hit or miss. Probably just want to put the car back to stock, or just keep chasing the issue until you hate yourself and/or the car.

 

[Blickie]

You didn't say what part(s) of the axle(s) break...

What did Eibach Say??

Who's axles are breaking???

Did lowering change the drive shaft angle between the diff and the wheel??? Doesn't lowering the body lower the diff in relation to the wheels?? That changes the drive shaft angles, yes?

If it wasn't broke/didn't break before lowering, then you may have your solution already like Mike suggested.

 

[Rockster]

Breaking axles or CV joints? If joints the lowering can subject the CV joints to extra load.

Under normal driving this may not result in a problem for some time. But if the car is being launched hard on the track, or street, this can result in more immediate problems from the CV joints.

 

[lovellgsxr]

Ok thanks guys. I figured I would be told to go back to stock. If I put her back to stock height I'm gonna hate her and probably sell.

 

[Slowpoke387]

Stock height is far from ugly, especially on a WB. Selling it because of a couple of inches of gap? Seems pretty extreme to me lol. To me lowered looks goofy, ruins the look (and axles). Funny how tastes can be so different. You gotta like what you see though and now is the time to sell.

 

[dn1984]

I always lower my cars, but after reading about all the issues people have lowering these cars unless they hardly drive the car, I decided I'm just going to keep the suspension stock. The factory ride height isn't too bad IMO. Not like my old Mustangs which looked like 4x4s from the factory

 

[ArchGE]

Ok thanks guys. I figured I would be told to go back to stock. If I put her back to stock height I'm gonna hate her and probably sell.

Yep, chasing a similar issue with my lowered ’15 SRT. These things look and perform so good with a little drop. I really don’t want to go back to stock either. CV boots keep splitting on mine. There’s been good threads in here in the past but no real solutions from what I can glean. I’m waiting on a reply from DSS about their Level 5 axles and optional Road Race CV upgrade but no answer yet. Crazy expensive but am keeping the car for a while. May have to call them next week and talk to a real person. I also have a Bwoody kit in back to tweak the neg. camber issue after lowering.

 

[lovellgsxr]

Stock height is far from ugly, especially on a WB. Selling it because of a couple of inches of gap? Seems pretty extreme to me lol. To me lowered looks goofy, ruins the look (and axles). Funny how tastes can be so different. You gotta like what you see though and now is the time to sell.

Exactly. Different strokes. And now is a good time to sell lol

 

[lovellgsxr]

Yep, chasing a similar issue with my lowered ’15 SRT. These things look and perform so good with a little drop. I really don’t want to go back to stock either. CV boots keep splitting on mine. There’s been good threads in here in the past but no real solutions from what I can glean. I’m waiting on a reply from DSS about their Level 5 axles and optional Road Race CV upgrade but no answer yet. Crazy expensive but am keeping the car for a while. May have to call them next week and talk to a real person. I also have a Bwoody kit in back to tweak the neg. camber issue after lowering.

Keep me posted please

 

[ArchGE]

Keep me posted please

Will do.

 

[Frosty]

if you are going to lower a widebody your going to have to go full out and install the customized rear cradle that corrects the geometry. Don't do that the CV joints are on borrowed time. That kit is awesome but pretty big $. 2015+ Mopar Modified Cradle & Complete 9″ IRS Kit

Maybe talk to them to see if you can buy just the parts you need vs the whole kit if you don't need everything.

 

[2ndAmend]

Did some calculations in axle/CV angle and increase in load. Doesn't seem excessive, but if the design has a thin margin, it could be a problem. That and it is possible people who do these mods drive a bit harder than average.

Angle deg	Additional Load
0	0.0%
5	0.4%
10	1.5%
15	3.5%
20	6.4%
25	10.3%
30	15.5%

​

​

 

[PurpleCat16]

You might want to upgrade your rear cradle and differential mount bushings to reduce or eliminate wheel hop.

 

[2ndAmend]

Wheel hop or anything else that causes impulse loads could easily increase load 2x or more. This would make more sense than angle change.

 

[Himmelkat]

If joints the lowering can subject the CV joints to extra load.

Common problem.

 

[Himmelkat]

Curious why CV as opposed to U joints are used on axles. Is it because they potentiall spend much of their time with zero offset angle, and U-joints are ALWAYS installed with, ideally, two parallel-but-skewed ends, and AT LEAST 1.5 degrees of angle experienced by each joint, or the bearing needles in the cups get hammered flat due to insufficient rotation and position change per rotation. You can't use U-joints in a situation with less than 1.5 degrees of angle on each end.

Which brings me to this question: with the lowered rear, would it be more of an ideal situation for U-joints on each end of the axle versus being more suited to CV joints? Is it experiencing sharp enough angles to keep a U-joint's bearing needles sufficiently active not to turn into bearing square keys instead of round rollers?

 

[Blkout]

Yep, chasing a similar issue with my lowered ’15 SRT. These things look and perform so good with a little drop. I really don’t want to go back to stock either. CV boots keep splitting on mine. There’s been good threads in here in the past but no real solutions from what I can glean. I’m waiting on a reply from DSS about their Level 5 axles and optional Road Race CV upgrade but no answer yet. Crazy expensive but am keeping the car for a while. May have to call them next week and talk to a real person. I also have a Bwoody kit in back to tweak the neg. camber issue after lowering.

There's a guy on the Facebook Hellcat group that road races his Charger Hellcat a LOT, he goes by Onur Can, he's broken axles, diffs, and torn boots, he hasn't found a solution yet, he even tried the DSS axles with Road Race CV upgrade. I think he's currently using a set of Redye axles, but everyone on that group has told him he may have to raise the car, these cars just don't seem like being lowered more than .5" or so before they start to have issues with axles and boots.

(Onur Can | Facebook

 

[Blkout]

Wheel hop or anything else that causes impulse loads could easily increase load 2x or more. This would make more sense than angle change.

Agreed, wheel hop also destroys axles and diffs.

 

[lovellgsxr]

if you are going to lower a widebody your going to have to go full out and install the customized rear cradle that corrects the geometry. Don't do that the CV joints are on borrowed time. That kit is awesome but pretty big $. 2015+ Mopar Modified Cradle & Complete 9″ IRS Kit

Maybe talk to them to see if you can buy just the parts you need vs the whole kit if you don't need everything.

Ok thanks for that info man....appreciate it