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Hey guys wondering if you can help me out. Im wondering can these all be used together? If not which one is the most effect with cooler temps and hp in mind been researching and haven’t seen anyone that has all three or that has har all three.
 

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Have the spacers and spacer blanket. Negligible results when racing. Killer chiller is ordered and just waiting for it to ship (should next week 🤷🏻‍♂️). Was thinking about the bigger heat exchanger but with the KC it didnt make sense as I would rather run an expansion tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Have the spacers and spacer blanket. Negligible results when racing. Killer chiller is ordered and just waiting for it to ship (should next week 🤷🏻‍♂️). Was thinking about the bigger heat exchanger but with the KC it didnt make sense as I would rather run an expansion tank.
Gotcha thanks for the reply did you see any boost gains with the spacer and blanket? Also are you going to run them together or take the spacer and blanket off
 

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What are the benefits of the killer chiller compared to an innerchiller
When you say innerchiller do you mean interchiller? Killer Chiller is a specific brand of interchiller. Made in AZ by kincaid performance. FI makes an interchiller based out of Australia. Not even going to mention the other vendor, poor customer service.
 

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I have the spacer plates and blanket. Will be adding the bwoody race HE and a black market reservoir. These two items will add two gallons to the IC system, which is more than double what it currently is,

I considered the interchiller, too. Install doesn't look that bad, but I just didn't want to mess with the AC system. The bwoody is pretty simple.

Mainly these things will just help keep the temps down over the course of the day running the car. In terms of a single run, when your car is cool, it won't make more power. But over the course of the day, if you are making numerous runs over a couple of hours, then it can help.

If I didn't bracket race, I would have just left the stock HE setup and just used a Tazer. I want to be able to let my car idle for 30 minutes and know what IC temp so I can dial in my time for bracket racing.

Unless you have some specific goal in mind, and if you only hit the track now and then, I'd just use a Tazer and cooldown that way, and throw some spacer plates and the blanket on if you ever do a pulley swap.
 

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Went thru the same learning process a while back. No value to having a chiller AND a larger HX. I chose the BWOODY race HX and at the same time was learning a lot of info from experienced folks about chemical chillers.

Best case scenario with a larger HX even running water wetter or something like that your temps will be at best ambient, never below.

With a chiller from one of 4 companies I know of making them for our platforms or a derivative of, the utility is before and after hard runs, with little value for full time running and daily driving. No reasons I suppose not to run it FT but the system like most are going to need maintenance and upkeep so the purposes they are meant for should be considered.
 
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Best case scenario with a larger HX even running water wetter or something like that your temps will be at best ambient, never below.
That's all I am hoping for and being able to just maintain that temp. Last summer ambient of 85-95 degrees, IC temp of 120 and IAT of 135-140 and that's with doing the tazer cooldown and a battery charger on the car so I could run the cool down for awhile. Of course that was after several runs but with 45 minutes minimum cool down time. The blower just heats up more and more as the day goes on. I am hoping to just get it to where it's stable and is predictable.

I will also have an additional 1.5 gallons of coolant above what the bwoody adds.

The good air (4200) is only a few weekends in the Fall.

I didn't want the maintenance and another system stacked on with the interchiller, and if I ever track the car, like on a big track, then the HE will work well, too.

Like you said, depends on your goals, purpose, etc. I am not concerned at all about the install of the bwoody. Eazy peazy.
 

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Biggest item I worked thru was the recycle of coolant into the system and use of the Burnbox to turn on the pump and work the bubbles out of the system. Took a good while but finally got sorted. Having the Burnbox definetly helped out a lot.
 
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Biggest item I worked thru was the recycle of coolant into the system and use of the Burnbox to turn on the pump and work the bubbles out of the system. Took a good while but finally got sorted. Having the Burnbox definetly helped out a lot.
So you got the system all hooked up and plumbed you simply started filling the small reservoir on the passenger interfender correct. Then turned on the pump cycled out the air and filled up the reservoir at the same time right kind of like bleeding brakes yes?
 

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So you got the system all hooked up and plumbed you simply started filling the small reservoir on the passenger fender correct. Then turned on the pump cycled out the air and filled up the reservoir at the same time right kind of like bleeding brakes yes?
You betcha....that was the approach......took a few cycles plus a few drives to ensure it worked all the way out.....lifting the car up to the front will help as well....I kept mine off the ground to ensure I had a bucket under the drain if needed

I kept a bowl on the drain overflow hose and it caught and collected the overflow when I put too much in between cycles, otherwise it runs all down inside.....I have the Patty's Garage strut brace with the black overflow tank but the principle is the same as the stock one.
Car Vehicle Hood Light Motor vehicle
 

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You betcha....that was the approach......took a few cycles plus a few drives to ensure it worked all the way out.....lifting the car up to the front will help as well....I kept mine off the ground to ensure I had a bucket under the drain if needed

I kept a bowl on the drain overflow hose and it caught and collected the overflow when I put too much in between cycles, otherwise it runs all down inside.....I have the Patty's Garage strut brace with the black overflow tank but the principle is the same as the stock one. View attachment 587819
Did you notice any increase in engine cooling temp? That HX is huge.
 

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Did you notice any increase in engine cooling temp? That HX is huge.
Honestly I never monitored it before....it is one of those invisible insurance items I put on. One thing I learn though is the mismatch of readings from the EVIC compared to the center UConnect screen performance pages, the IAT and the IC coolant temps are swapped.....am finding a link said to a 2018 UConnect update or some flash applied at the end of that year that messed it up.

Apparently the little screen in the EVIC behind steering wheel is correct.
 

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oh and the amount of trimming I had to do to the front fascia inside on my Charger was an ongoing item.....really wish it would have been mounted just a little higher behind the bumper support cause it contacts the lower grill area and the clearance needed is a lot of tabs and body work to trim just to get it flush......or close to it
 

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You betcha....that was the approach......took a few cycles plus a few drives to ensure it worked all the way out.....lifting the car up to the front will help as well....I kept mine off the ground to ensure I had a bucket under the drain if needed

I kept a bowl on the drain overflow hose and it caught and collected the overflow when I put too much in between cycles, otherwise it runs all down inside.....I have the Patty's Garage strut brace with the black overflow tank but the principle is the same as the stock one. View attachment 587819
Just so I understand you did not use the bleed screw at the back of the blower correct? you simply waited to get the bubbles out through the overflow catch container on the interfender.
 

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Just so I understand you did not use the bleed screw at the back of the blower correct? you simply waited to get the bubbles out through the overflow catch container on the interfender.
I did use that. 3 times I cracked it open just as an assurance it was not a capture point for any bubbles.
 

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Awesome. I never thought about the reality that any chiller system oem or otherwise is not viable realistically for everyday use or high-speed autox use. Since I run far more high speed runs than drag I'd think a bwoody race HX is money better spent.
 
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