Has anybody tried the Killer Chiller from Kincaid Performance? The Mustang guys seem to really like it. Claim 40 to 50 HP thru cooler intake temps and less timing retard. Now making a Hellcat kit.
Killer Chiller
James White
121 - 140 of 307 Posts
Did they ever get the car ironed out?
Yep, in and out in a day. Luckily the half-shaft was covered under warranty.
They also took the time to install my one piece driveshaft. Was going to install it myself this weekend, but since they already had to unbolt the 2-piece I got a great deal on labor.
It's now at the other shop having the KC installed.
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They also took the time to install my one piece driveshaft. Was going to install it myself this weekend, but since they already had to unbolt the 2-piece I got a great deal on labor.
It's now at the other shop having the KC installed.
Cool deal! I just installed my DSS last nite. It took me like 3 hours as I was by myself and kept having to release and engage parking brake for bolt access. Feels more direct and it seems to eliminate the clunky sound in between gears.
Nice, I had to do the same when changing the Differential. Had to look up the procedure on how to do that without starting the car on auto's lol.
It definitely feels like it applies the Torque a bit quicker and as you said no clunk when suddenly applying that power either.
Ha so it will never work then.
MELLOT-Z --- start droolingGentlemen, let me lay a few facts out there after testing this on my 6.2 hellcat/2.9 drag pak whipple combo.
1. The killer chiller set up I just installed appears to keep water temps consistently in the 40's regardless of ambient. Obviously the warmer it is outside the more advantage you will have over standard heat exchangers which can at best only cool things down to ambient.
2. So far, I have yet to see IATs rise during 2-3rd gear WOT runs (still tuning the car). Typically my IATs will go down 4-5 degs from begining to the end of run. Seem to level off once they drop 5 degrees. Track testing will show whether the system has the capacity to maintain a level IAT temp through an entire 1/4 mile. Bottom line, these kind of IATs are worth power that will show up on a time slip, without having to haul 100lbs of ice back and forth to the track.
3. I can sit in Washington D.C. traffic for an hour plus, park the car, and the blower is barely luke warm, the bottom manifold is cool to the touch and the intercooler reservoir is downright chillly with a bit of moisture on it. I plan to insulated the aluminum moroso tank to prevent further loss due to hot engine bay. Bottom line, heatsoak on the head unit is now non-existent.
4. The race set up is just a solenoid you integrate into the high pressure line that effectively isolates the cabin from the cooling loop and only circulates freon through the chiller circuit. Therefore there is no humidity being sucked out of the air and dripped on the ground. It is a must have for the track. I have mine on a simple switch, defaulted to open, and flip the switch to close the solenoid for track days.
5. Its so effective Dodge just integrated this A/C cooled chiller design into the Demon and claims it drops IATs 45 degs in race mode. I saw it first hand yesterday.
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See you all at the track,
Chris
Still trying to get mine to work, was up until 3am working on it. Essentially it's a $900 kit (got the 12v bypass) of unpaid R&D. Had to go to lowes for a couple extra fittings, called the owner about 6 times.
You must temove the aux H/E to mount this.
Also another pro tip not mentioned in the instructions, I found out after calling. You have to hook up the 12v bypass for a full minute before the capacitor charges enough to open or close. That would have saved me an hour and a half if those instructions were included.
There are basically no instructions like there are for the camaro or mustang. Going to go and try and hookup the KC directly and bypass tge H/E & 3-way bypass.
You must temove the aux H/E to mount this.
Also another pro tip not mentioned in the instructions, I found out after calling. You have to hook up the 12v bypass for a full minute before the capacitor charges enough to open or close. That would have saved me an hour and a half if those instructions were included.
There are basically no instructions like there are for the camaro or mustang. Going to go and try and hookup the KC directly and bypass tge H/E & 3-way bypass.
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So the instructions for our cars aren't good? That's a big turn off for me. I may want to do it myself, but if I have to take it to a shop, I definitely don't want my car to be there for any longer than it has to be, possibly paying for extra labor and storage fees.
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The instructions are almost non existent. Attaching the instructions but they don't do much good if you add a bypass since the loop must be modified. It also only comes with a picture.
The camaro instructions are 15 pages of step by step instructions....thats what I assumed I was getting for $900...
Edit: Forgot to add that a shop is installing this and have installed one on a Mustang in the past and they're having issues. To be fair they didn't install a bypass with the mustang but just to let you how much trouble they're having, my car would be out of commission for weeks if I'd attempted this.
The camaro instructions are 15 pages of step by step instructions....thats what I assumed I was getting for $900...
Edit: Forgot to add that a shop is installing this and have installed one on a Mustang in the past and they're having issues. To be fair they didn't install a bypass with the mustang but just to let you how much trouble they're having, my car would be out of commission for weeks if I'd attempted this.
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Thanks for the information. Would be great to get step by step instructions. Hopefully we get something soon.
After being at the track again last night, I'm definitely ordering one as well. I was seeing my I/C coolant temps ranging from like 115-135. It's too hot in Texas not to have one.
Driving but install updates coming...its working! I just used crap 134a will be draining and recharging with Industrial 12a, allegedly drops temps another 20*
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Hey, even that cheap 134a is way better than this R1234YF. Your AC vents should be much colder. My Hellcat and wifes SRT Charger just get down to 60 degrees. The industrial got my Scat vents from 60 to 37 which is a drastic difference. Are they still using those cheap tee fittings?
A.C. is much colder than before when the HE bypass is on, seems like when the bypass is off and the heat exchanger is online it overwhelms the A.C. because it doesn't get much colder than 60 or 65 I'd say, and it's 73 outside, I didn't have an AC gauge though.
The T-fittings weren't bad, but the couplers were cheap nylon couplers so when having to get some other fittings and hose at lowes I got some better ones.
The issues I experienced during install was due to the installer accidentally installing the 3-way 12v valve backwards essentially leaving the coolant nowhere to go. After testing each part piece by piece we isolated that and corrected it.
Next even after we confirmed the Valve was added correctly there was a large air pocket we were unable to get rid of using the bleeder, we weren't even sure it was an air pocket since once coolant was coming out the bleeder the coolant temps would still shoot up the second you took it out for a drive. Ended up draining the whole system and putting vacuum on the system then adding water/coolant working great now!
Seat of the pants feel it makes significantly more power, did a few races with a friend and I was still having issues with traction in 3rd and 4th getting a bit sideways, will def. Need to invest in M/T's next, I already have 315 street tires and they're not holding traction, lol.
It is a pain in the ass to do, but worth it. Kincaid said he'd have step by step instructions by the end of summer if anyone wants to wait for better instructions. Tomorrow or Monday I'll have it back up on the lift if anyone wants any certain pics of anything.
The T-fittings weren't bad, but the couplers were cheap nylon couplers so when having to get some other fittings and hose at lowes I got some better ones.
The issues I experienced during install was due to the installer accidentally installing the 3-way 12v valve backwards essentially leaving the coolant nowhere to go. After testing each part piece by piece we isolated that and corrected it.
Next even after we confirmed the Valve was added correctly there was a large air pocket we were unable to get rid of using the bleeder, we weren't even sure it was an air pocket since once coolant was coming out the bleeder the coolant temps would still shoot up the second you took it out for a drive. Ended up draining the whole system and putting vacuum on the system then adding water/coolant working great now!
Seat of the pants feel it makes significantly more power, did a few races with a friend and I was still having issues with traction in 3rd and 4th getting a bit sideways, will def. Need to invest in M/T's next, I already have 315 street tires and they're not holding traction, lol.
It is a pain in the ass to do, but worth it. Kincaid said he'd have step by step instructions by the end of summer if anyone wants to wait for better instructions. Tomorrow or Monday I'll have it back up on the lift if anyone wants any certain pics of anything.
Thanks for the details! I probably won't be ordering one until August, so if he has instructions by then, it'll be perfect.
I'd like to see pics of the fittings you had issues with, as well as any 3 ways fittings installed. Thanks
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