[Red-key]

Those that take there Hellcats to the track often. Which way do you launch that's given you the best results? Do you foot brake and bring rpms up then launch or do you just simply leave off at idle?

Curious to know if you have tried both ways and which launch method worked best for you and the car?

 

[HC5120]

Start with the rpms as low as you can with the drivetrain loaded. Use the brake pedal to stage, just let off it a little and creep into the lights that way, keeping the rpms steady at 1300 or so or whatever keeps the drivetrain loaded.

 

[moparjim]

I find with good prep leaving just above idle
(900-1200) and mash it. Stock 2016 cat with nothing but drag wheels front/rear gets a 60' between 1.49-1.52 in good weather with da about 500ft or better.
With less than great prep I leave more towards 1200-1400 and roll in the throttle.
Not as quick of a way to get down the track.

 

[Linda's Hell Cat]

When my Hellcat was stock, I just smashed the pedal to the floor.
Once my Hellcat started the R&D/Tuning process I would bring the rpms up. I dont actually look at the rpms but I press the throttle enough to feel the fuel coming through.

Launching is a finesse and what works best for me and it is very quick. Think like this Tap-smash.

Linda

 

[Red-key]

When my Hellcat was stock, I just smashed the pedal to the floor.
Once my Hellcat started the R&D/Tuning process I would bring the rpms up. I dont actually look at the rpms but I press the throttle enough to feel the fuel coming through.

Launching is a finesse and works best for me and it is very quick. Think like this Tap-smash.

Linda

Sounds like a good idea to try not looking down at the rpms when Im trying to get the car at the correct rpm to launch at. When I'm looking down at the rpms quickly and back up at the tree at the same time, it throws my timing off while I'm already at the staged light when quickly trying to raise my rpms before the tree counts down to the last yellow when I launch.

This is where I struggle the most. After I trip the pre stage bulb at idle then move forward to trip the stage bulb, I quickly try and raise my rpms but before you know it, it's time to go and throws me off cause I wasn't quite ready. It gets kinda tough especially when I deal with other racers double bulbing me before I even pre-staged 😒

Maybe I'll try to get familiar with how my car sounds at a certain rpm so while I'm staged I don't have to take my eye off the tree.

 

[Red-key]

Start with the rpms as low as you can with the drivetrain loaded. Use the brake pedal to stage, just let off it a little and creep into the lights that way, keeping the rpms steady at 1300 or so or whatever keeps the drivetrain loaded.

That's a good idea as well and I may try it again. I did try pre loading the drivetrain once but at around 1800 rpms where I usually launch at. I pre staged, then foot brake and loaded the car up at 1800 rpms, then off the brake slightly just to bump the stage light beam while consistently holding at 1800 and launched when it was time. Car seemed to just launch ok but not as good. Maybe because I was on the converter too long? Not sure maybe I'll try again...

I was thinking to make my life easy once I'm at the stage bulb, just simply mash the throttle at idle so I can be more than ready just in time. That way I don't have to worry about feeling rushed when quickly getting my rpms up in time while the track official hits the countdown for the tree. I basically just need a Grove or technique to stick with that launches the car best while I can be ready in time when the tree counts down when I'm staged.

 

[Red-key]

I find with good prep leaving just above idle
(900-1200) and mash it. Stock 2016 cat with nothing but drag wheels front/rear gets a 60' between 1.49-1.52 in good weather with da about 500ft or better.
With less than great prep I leave more towards 1200-1400 and roll in the throttle.
Not as quick of a way to get down the track.

Impressive 60fts. I didn't know a stock Cat can get 1.4 60's. I guess it depends on good DA.

 

[moparjim]

Impressive 60fts. I didn't know a stock Cat can get 1.4 60's. I guess it depends on good DA.

Thanks
Neither did I.🤷
I was stuck at 1.50 for 2 years.
I don't think I have seen another do it that didn't have a 3.09 swap. Which mine does not and my 60' is why.

 

[moparjim]

Sounds like a good idea to try not looking down at the rpms when Im trying to get the car at the correct rpm to launch at. When I'm looking down at the rpms quickly and back up at the tree at the same time, it throws my timing off while I'm already at the staged light when quickly trying to raise my rpms before the tree counts down to the last yellow when I launch.

This is where I struggle the most. After I trip the pre stage bulb at idle then move forward to trip the stage bulb, I quickly try and raise my rpms but before you know it, it's time to go and throws me off cause I wasn't quite ready. It gets kinda tough especially when I deal with other racers double bulbing me before I even pre-staged 😒

Maybe I'll try to get familiar with how my car sounds at a certain rpm so while I'm staged I don't have to take my eye off the tree.

I do not look at the tack. Just load the suspension and go. The rpm range I get from data logs.
I launch by feel

 

[fumanchu182]

foot brake tille you feel the the car get tight. I usually leave around 2k. 1.37 60’ on stock suspension

 

[baabootoo]

Great timing here! So SPORT mode and let it shift itself on a stock car with drag radials?

 

[HC5120]

[

That's a good idea as well and I may try it again. I did try pre loading the drivetrain once but at around 1800 rpms where I usually launch at. I pre staged, then foot brake and loaded the car up at 1800 rpms, then off the brake slightly just to bump the stage light beam while consistently holding at 1800 and launched when it was time. Car seemed to just launch ok but not as good. Maybe because I was on the converter too long? Not sure maybe I'll try again...

I was thinking to make my life easy once I'm at the stage bulb, just simply mash the throttle at idle so I can be more than ready just in time. That way I don't have to worry about feeling rushed when quickly getting my rpms up in time while the track official hits the countdown for the tree. I basically just need a Grove or technique to stick with that launches the car best while I can be ready in time when the tree counts down when I'm staged.

foot brake tille you feel the the car get tight. I usually leave around 2k. 1.37 60’ on stock suspension

Red-key, you can't be trying to get your rpms set between the first and second bulb. Just roll up to right before the first beam and hit the brakes and full stop. Increase rpms till you feel the car get tight, as fuman put it, and then just use brake pressure to inch/move forward and pre-stage and then stage. You need to be glued on the tree, not looking at your tach or anything else. The key is to be thinking about as few things as possible.

 

[HC5120]

Also, I'd start with the minimum launch rpm you can do and work up from there. That will be track dependent.

Baaboo, yes sport is fine, some use track. I haven't found that it makes a difference for me. For sure you want to let it shift itself.

 

[baabootoo]

Excellent. Thanks all!

 

[DEANGEL]

Like others have said, I foot brake it until it "feels" right then let it rip. It's hard to explain but it is a "feel" for when the drivetrain and suspension is loaded up and ready for launch.

 

[Red-key]

Like others have said, I foot brake it until it "feels" right then let it rip. It's hard to explain but it is a "feel" for when the drivetrain and suspension is loaded up and ready for launch.

Totally understand what your saying. It seems pretty instinctive based on how your loading the drivetrain by feel.

 

[moparjim]

I use custom settings as most do.
Suspension -street
Traction - sport
Trans - track.
Sometimes in cold weather I use Sport for the trans. Less chance of issues at the shift.

You DO NOT have to turn everything off with the SRT button. One day you will be happy you didn't do that.

 

[fumanchu182]

Red-key, you can't be trying to get your rpms set between the first and second bulb. Just roll up to right before the first beam and hit the brakes and full stop. Increase rpms till you feel the car get tight, as fuman put it, and then just use brake pressure to inch/move forward and pre-stage and then stage. You need to be glued on the tree, not looking at your tach or anything else. The key is to be thinking about as few things as possible.

I get to the first bulb, courtesy stage. Bring up my RPM's and then shallow stage to second bulb. I'll be publishing a video soon where you can watch my technique. It takes a lot of practice though. I am now highly coordinated with my two feet. 🤣

I use custom settings as most do.
Suspension -street
Traction - sport
Trans - track.
Sometimes in cold weather I use Sport for the trans. Less chance of issues at the shift.

You DO NOT have to turn everything off with the SRT button. One day you will be happy you didn't do that.

I turn it off every time, haven't had an issue at all. If you feel yourself getting loose get out of the accelerator and let it coast. Worst think you can do is hit brakes or try to steer out of it. If you are going sideways nothing is going to save you, not even dodge's traction control. Also if you are going to be competitive, it will hurt your 60' for sure. If you're just having fun and want to get an adrenalie dump, leave it on.

 

[moparjim]

I get to the first bulb, courtesy stage. Bring up my RPM's and then shallow stage to second bulb. I'll be publishing a video soon where you can watch my technique. It takes a lot of practice though. I am now highly coordinated with my two feet. 🤣



I turn it off every time, haven't had an issue at all. If you feel yourself getting loose get out of the accelerator and let it coast. Worst think you can do is hit brakes or try to steer out of it. If you are going sideways nothing is going to save you, not even dodge's traction control. Also if you are going to be competitive, it will hurt your 60' for sure. If you're just having fun and want to get an adrenalie dump, leave it on.

Sorry I have to disagree.
In Sport traction there is no traction control only stability control. Which will only kick in if the car goes sideways while moving forward.
No it won't save you on its own but it will slow down drama and give you a little more time to gather it up. I appreciated it when I was the one that found out a pick up was leaking antifreeze at about the 1/8 mile.
It will NOT hurt the 60' time. That is simply not true. If it was how the hell has my car been cutting 1.49-1.52 60' times in a stock powered full weight car with a 2.62 rear, and for those that commented on driver weight being a factor in another thread, I'm 259lbs so that ain't helping.
Besides even if traction control was active it would do nothing unless you are spinning.
So there's that.🤷

 

[fumanchu182]

Sorry I have to disagree.
In Sport traction there is no traction control only stability control. Which will only kick in if the car goes sideways while moving forward.
No it won't save you on its own but it will slow down drama and give you a little more time to gather it up. I appreciated it when I was the one that found out a pick up was leaking antifreeze at about the 1/8 mile.
It will NOT hurt the 60' time. That is simply not true. If it was how the hell has my car been cutting 1.49-1.52 60' times in a stock powered full weight car with a 2.62 rear, and for those that commented on driver weight being a factor in another thread, I'm 259lbs so that ain't helping.
Besides even if traction control was active it would do nothing unless you are spinning.
So there's that.🤷

I understand your perspective and how you race however I have tons of passes that say other wise. Just like you have tons of passes for your opinion. Ive put my best times down with it off.