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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any instructions for dropping the rear cradle in a 2017 Hellcat Challenger. Torque specs would be great too.

I have to change out my differential and axles and am looking to do the control arms, trailing arms etc. maybe even the lockout kit. I think it may be worthwhile to drop the entire rear cradle
 

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It's not that bad to do imo, drop your driveshaft unplug exaust valve actuators at actuators pigtail, I dropped whole exaust except headers one bolt holding each tip support strap, loosened clamps at header,spray a little kroil on slip flange remove 2 hanger bolts and wiggle it off from rear, had a creeper up front to set exaust on. Removed both rear wheels and calipers hung calipers with ty raps on each side. Rite side there are 3 or 4 pigtail connections unplug all of them. Used a 59. Trans Jack with a ratchet strap from harbor freight. Mite have bought it on sale dont remember centered under pumpkin with a 1/2" 4×4 square of rubber and jacked under fine with a rubber buffer no damage to either diff. Next now that all the obstacles are gone. Trans Jack supporting diff. dbl chk that you haven't missed pigtail connectors. Pull your bolts on all 4 corners I backed mine half out to make sure everything cleared lowered cradle about 1.5 inch all 4 corners, after dbl checking for any missed connectors all 4 bolts came out of cradle bushings and I lowered my trans jack to ground swings out to the drivers rear so you can disconnect the em brake cable after em cable is unhooked she's free to move around. I used a 1 ton chain fall to pick up complete rear cradle and put on workbenche so I could knock out the factory bushings I didn't use lockout bushings on mine. Preffered delron solid bushings. Swap out whatever your using and hook up em brake cable before rotating back under body that cheap trans jack made it very easy to move and position by myself. imo control arms,diff,axles,mount bushings and tension arms with a p4d brace you will be driving a whole different animal good set of tires (she will hook like a glue) torque specs I asked a guy on another forum his tag is plmbcrazy he also was nice enough to tell me how to unhook that em brake cable. That's pretty much spot on directions how I did mine from memory. It sounds like alot think I spent 3mabye 4hrs dropping it first time around. Just take your time and dbl chk when lowering and raising you'll be fine. I did forget one important part make sure your front end is higher than rear while cradle is out. The rear gets pretty lite without cradle and you dont want any mishaps with balancing car on stands
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's not that bad to do imo, drop your driveshaft unplug exaust valve actuators at actuators pigtail, I dropped whole exaust except headers one bolt holding each tip support strap, loosened clamps at header,spray a little kroil on slip flange remove 2 hanger bolts and wiggle it off from rear, had a creeper up front to set exaust on. Removed both rear wheels and calipers hung calipers with ty raps on each side. Rite side there are 3 or 4 pigtail connections unplug all of them. Used a 59. Trans Jack with a ratchet strap from harbor freight. Mite have bought it on sale dont remember centered under pumpkin with a 1/2" 4×4 square of rubber and jacked under fine with a rubber buffer no damage to either diff. Next now that all the obstacles are gone. Trans Jack supporting diff. dbl chk that you haven't missed pigtail connectors. Pull your bolts on all 4 corners I backed mine half out to make sure everything cleared lowered cradle about 1.5 inch all 4 corners, after dbl checking for any missed connectors all 4 bolts came out of cradle bushings and I lowered my trans jack to ground swings out to the drivers rear so you can disconnect the em brake cable after em cable is unhooked she's free to move around. I used a 1 ton chain fall to pick up complete rear cradle and put on workbenche so I could knock out the factory bushings I didn't use lockout bushings on mine. Preffered delron solid bushings. Swap out whatever your using and hook up em brake cable before rotating back under body that cheap trans jack made it very easy to move and position by myself. imo control arms,diff,axles,mount bushings and tension arms with a p4d brace you will be driving a whole different animal good set of tires (she will hook like a glue) torque specs I asked a guy on another forum his tag is plmbcrazy he also was nice enough to tell me how to unhook that em brake cable. That's pretty much spot on directions how I did mine from memory. It sounds like alot think I spent 3mabye 4hrs dropping it first time around. Just take your time and dbl chk when lowering and raising you'll be fine. I did forget one important part make sure your front end is higher than rear while cradle is out. The rear gets pretty lite without cradle and you dont want any mishaps with balancing car on stands
Thank you so much! This was pretty much exactly what I was looking for!!
 

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Check out the BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout, and Upper Control Arm Installation Instructions on their Website. You will also need to disconnect the fuel filler tube from the gas tank.
 

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I didnt even bother with the first 3 pages of bmr’s instructions when dropping the cradle enough to do the lockout bushing kit. Those directions seemed pretty generic to me. Installed the kit in just over 2 hrs.
 

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Also if you are dropping the cradle all the way you may also want to disconnect the calipers and bag the brake hoses.
 

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Yes you can just wire up the calipers, but if you are also doing upper control arms diff and axles the calipers and cradle may get scratched up. Also it is a PITA to torque the RH inner Upper control arm bolts, I just ended up doing the RH Inner back one Gootentight. Also getting the lower limiter plates off the bottom of the forward rear cradle bushings is not fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes you can just wire up the calipers, but if you are also doing upper control arms diff and axles the calipers and cradle may get scratched up. Also it is a PITA to torque the RH inner Upper control arm bolts, I just ended up doing the RH Inner back one Gootentight. Also getting the lower limiter plates off the bottom of the forward rear cradle bushings is not fun.
I guess I'll cross that road when I get there
 
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