Here are the choices I made regarding components:
Replacement "new" factory clutch:
I did the swap myself in my garage using tall jack-stands and a “low lift” transmission jack from Harbor Freight. Obviously, a lift would be ideal, however I took my time and made sure everything was safe and secure and was able to get it done without any real difficulty. Honesty the hardest part was removing the exhaust hangers – those suckers are tight! I found the following YouTube links which were enormously helpful:
Here is the sequence I followed when removing the factory transmission:
(don’t worry, those wooden Jenga blocks are all held tightly together by dozens of 2-1/2” 16-ga nail-brads)
Thanks for reading! Let me know what you think.
- 1st gear ratio: 2.66… This is the biggest choice to make, either the 2.66 or 2.98. I was very tempted to get the 2.98, however I opted for the 2.66 based on feedback from @16GoManGoHC in this thread.
- 6th gear ratio: 0.50… As discussed above, I wanted a tall overdrive gear for freeway driving. The factory 6th gear is now right in the middle between the new 5th and 6th gears. I can’t see a situation where I would ever want the old 6th gear ratio.
- All 6 ratios are shown in the chart below. You can see how I “spread out” the ratios, shorter on the low end, taller on the high end, moving away from the close-ratio ethos of the Viper gearing.
- Clutch – I opted to go with a new stock replacement clutch, for a few reasons. Firstly, to change it “while I was in there” seemed logical – however see photos below of the factory clutch upon removal – it looked basically brand new, only very minor material removed. Pretty impressive for having 40 track passes! Secondly, a new OEM clutch seemed like the best fit for my needs: I read about how multiple forum members used them hard at the track pass after pass without issue, and also I didn’t want to deal with the risk of issues regarding fitment, shimming, pedal feel, daily drivability, NVH, etc. that I was reading about with some aftermarket clutch situations. Thirdly, I scored a new OEM clutch from a forum member on here shipped to my house for about a third of what a new one cost, he even included a new flywheel with it. The clutch was new, never used, and just sat on the shelf in his California garage for a few years. See photo of my “new” clutch below.
Replacement "new" factory clutch:
- Flywheel – After seeing the excellent condition of the factory clutch, I opted to leave the factory flywheel in place in the car. There were heat marks on it, but it was smooth and free of any scratches or rough edges, etc. See photo below.
- Clutch alignment tool – I chose the Mantic Clutch 1-1/8”x26 tool for $45 + $50 shipping (which is absolutely nuts) for $95 delivered to my door. I didn’t want to trust a plastic tool, so I shelled out the money for this steel version. It seemed a little strange that it had painters tape wrapped around the tip to properly match the ID of the pilot bearing, however in the end it didn’t matter. Here is a photo, other than the ridiculous shipping cost I’m happy with it.
I did the swap myself in my garage using tall jack-stands and a “low lift” transmission jack from Harbor Freight. Obviously, a lift would be ideal, however I took my time and made sure everything was safe and secure and was able to get it done without any real difficulty. Honesty the hardest part was removing the exhaust hangers – those suckers are tight! I found the following YouTube links which were enormously helpful:
Here is the sequence I followed when removing the factory transmission:
- Before parking and lifting up the car, be sure you have adequate clearance & access around the car to remove the exhaust system – it is quite large and cumbersome as one piece. Consider where you put the jack stands to enable this access. Pulling the exhaust assembly out from the back end of the car is easiest if you have the room.
- Disconnect the battery – important!!
- Remove shifter assembly from inside the car, especially if you have a Barton shifter.
- Remove exhaust tips – this helps with clearance when maneuvering the exhaust assembly and avoids scratching/damaging the tips.
- Disconnect the oxygen sensor connectors on the catalytic converters. Disconnect the active exhaust valve electrical connectors. There is also an electrical grounding strap on the passenger side, on the exhaust tip hanger.
- Remove exhaust as one piece, use prybars and lubricant to remove rubber hangers. 16mm stud bolts on the cats. Alternatively, the exhaust system can come out in 3 smaller pieces if necessary.
- Remove driveshaft, mark the flanges, using T-50 socket
- Remove trans cooler lines at junction box under engine, with 20mm wrench (I got a cheap one on Amazon) and plug the lines.
- Remove starter (this is why disconnecting the battery is critical).
- Disconnect all electrical connectors from the transmission and remove the clutch line (cap the clutch line otherwise it will leak brake fluid), I used a little rubber cap that came in an assortment pack from Autozone.
- Support bellhousing with jack and remove the transmission support & cross member.
- Remove tranny to bellhousing bolts (8x 15mm), very long socket extensions work well here! See picture below.
- I removed the trans with the 800-lb rated “low lift” transmission jack from Harbor Freight. The jack worked OK, however it wasn’t tall enough because I had the car pretty high in the air. So I had to use two 4x4 wood blocks (see image below) under the transmission. Once I got the transmission free of the engine, the wood blocks had to be removed or else the trans would not clear the underside of the car while pulling out the jack! This was pretty difficult to do without rolling the transmission off the jack – I strongly recommend a friend to help with this step.
(don’t worry, those wooden Jenga blocks are all held tightly together by dozens of 2-1/2” 16-ga nail-brads)
- With the trans removed, I was able to remove the jack supporting the bellhousing by placing some wood supports between the engine and the sub-frame – to prevent the engine from rocking backwards. I also placed another jack on the engine oil pan (with very light pressure) to prevent the engine from rocking forwards. Not sure if that was totally necessary, but better safe than sorry.
- Remove the bellhousing with 13mm nuts on the top to hold the wiring conduit bracket, 14mm stud bolts on the top, 15mm bolts on the bottom. Again, use the long extensions here and it’s easy. No need to access these bolts from under the windshield cowl (that’s too much extra work).
- Remove pressure plate with E12 “inverse-torx” bit (6 bolts).
- I filled the new trans with 3.75 qt of new fluid, while it was still on the bench. I also flushed out the fluid in the trans cooler and lines using a small hand-operated fluid transfer pump.
- I used Royal Purple manual transmission fluid, per recommendation from RPM.
- I opted for a new throw-out bearing, and 2 new bolts from Mopar. I’m not sure this was necessary, given the low mileage and excellent condition of the factory clutch.
- To bleed the clutch line, I depressed the clutch pedal about 50 times, then it was as-good-as-new. I topped off the fluid in the reservoir (it was down slightly from max fill) with new DOT-4 fluid.
- On the OEM driveshaft bolts, there is a green type of sealant on the threads which seems to seal and/or centralize the bolts inside the rubber bushing assembly. This green sealant isn’t actually applied on the male to female thread engagement area. For re-assembly, I stripped off the green substance, added black RTV in it’s place, and added blue loctite to the thread-to-thread engagement area. I’m not 100% this was the right approach, however it’s what I did. I plan to check these bolts at each oil change to ensure they aren’t backing out.
- Torque values I found online for re-assembly:
- Bellhousing bolts & studs: 33 ft-lb
- Driveline flange bolts: 49 ft-lb
- Pressure plate to flywheel bolts: 55 ft-lb
Thanks for reading! Let me know what you think.