The instructions on the Mopar Splash Guards are retarded.
I started with the rears. They tell you to remove the rear wheel and to drill out the body plugs. Screw that. If you go in from the back side of the wheel well and just snip the spread back side of the plastic plugs with a wire cutter, they just fall out. You have to drill a hole in the black plastic between two existing holes, but once you have the plugs out you can mark the location using the splash guard and flex the black plastic enough to drill the required hole without removing the wheel. A stubby phillips will get the new bottom screw and a phillips tip from a drill extension tip set will allow you to get the top two screws close to tight with your fingers. I used just he phillips tip from the tip set held in the screw heads with my fingers and a pair of pliers to do the final tightening.
The fronts are much easier. The one plastic plug you have to remove does not go in flush and will easily pop out without damaging it. The other can be removed with a small socket and ratchet wrench They seem like they take forever to completely unthread and retighten and only seem to go into plastic so be careful not to over tighten on reassembly. They give you four screws and I assume the ones that are coated are the ones they want you to put in the hole they tell you to drill in your nice new painted fender. Screw that too. They will do fine with the three screws without drilling a hole in painted metal.
I have no clue about the funky plastic pieces that are inside of each splash guard. They don't seem to lock in any way that will keep them from just ending up in the bottom of the splash guard over time or to end up in any specific place they will stay at the time of install. If anyone finds some logic to their purpose and how they fulfill that purpose, I would like to know. If anyone know what the images that look like tiny trash cans on the Mopar diagram represent, I would like to know that too.
I hope the guys that build these cars at the plant get better directions.
I started with the rears. They tell you to remove the rear wheel and to drill out the body plugs. Screw that. If you go in from the back side of the wheel well and just snip the spread back side of the plastic plugs with a wire cutter, they just fall out. You have to drill a hole in the black plastic between two existing holes, but once you have the plugs out you can mark the location using the splash guard and flex the black plastic enough to drill the required hole without removing the wheel. A stubby phillips will get the new bottom screw and a phillips tip from a drill extension tip set will allow you to get the top two screws close to tight with your fingers. I used just he phillips tip from the tip set held in the screw heads with my fingers and a pair of pliers to do the final tightening.
The fronts are much easier. The one plastic plug you have to remove does not go in flush and will easily pop out without damaging it. The other can be removed with a small socket and ratchet wrench They seem like they take forever to completely unthread and retighten and only seem to go into plastic so be careful not to over tighten on reassembly. They give you four screws and I assume the ones that are coated are the ones they want you to put in the hole they tell you to drill in your nice new painted fender. Screw that too. They will do fine with the three screws without drilling a hole in painted metal.
I have no clue about the funky plastic pieces that are inside of each splash guard. They don't seem to lock in any way that will keep them from just ending up in the bottom of the splash guard over time or to end up in any specific place they will stay at the time of install. If anyone finds some logic to their purpose and how they fulfill that purpose, I would like to know. If anyone know what the images that look like tiny trash cans on the Mopar diagram represent, I would like to know that too.
I hope the guys that build these cars at the plant get better directions.
