[GreenMachine15]

Just to start, I have the following add-ons that made this more difficult.

Passenger side;
Speedlogix front strut tower brace

Drivers side;
JLT CAI
JLT Passenger side oil catch can, it has never had a drop of oil in it, waste of money.

Just getting the plugs off of the coils was a challenge on the two rear cylinders on the passenger side. The drivers side was easy with the CAI off, and the coolant bottle unbolted and moved. I had to zip tie the factory harness plugs together to keep them from rubbing against stuff when final install was complete.

Pics are of where I mounted the 2 step for ease of access to change the RPM if desired.
Clean and hidden.

 

[GreenMachine15]

Does anyone know why stage 6 sends a micro switch for the A8 and uses the factory clutch switch for the M6?
I emailed MXA and Stage 6 to see why they do not use the factory brake light switch in the A8 cars. No responses yet.
Could it be because the brake pedal has to fully travel up before lights go out and the micro switch will give you and instant turn off?
I will post pics of whatever switch I use and the wiring.

 

[jakelind707]

Does anyone know why stage 6 sends a micro switch for the A8 and uses the factory clutch switch for the M6?
I emailed MXA and Stage 6 to see why they do not use the factory brake light switch in the A8 cars. No responses yet.
Could it be because the brake pedal has to fully travel up before lights go out and the micro switch will give you and instant turn off?
I will post pics of whatever switch I use and the wiring.

It does not use the factory clutch switch for the M6, and is recommended to be engaged by micro switch by both of the tech's I spoke to.

They stated its best with the micro because you can set it further from either pedal so that any sort of clutch pressure won't activate it. I have mine a little further back with a different micro than they supply for length of arm, set almost midway through engagement so when I am shifting to 2nd and letting the clutch in and out, it doesn't hit 2step instead of revving out (happened when testing with their switch with the odd bend in it)

The bracket they supply was designed for the auto vehicles, but was never tested on a challenger, rather one of the techs jeep srt8, so it would need to be modified more than likely. I posted a writeup on here about how I changed mine to work.

 

[GreenMachine15]

Oh, my directions they supplied show to use the factory clutch switch for manual trans.....

MXA and Stage 6 gave me different answers.
I see you talked to MXA.

I am just using the micro switch, I will adjust it to disable a hair off brake.

 

[jakelind707]

Oh, my directions they supplied show to use the factory clutch switch for manual trans.....

MXA and Stage 6 gave me different answers.
I see you talked to MXA.

I am just using the micro switch, I will adjust it to disable a hair off brake.

Nope, just got off the phone with Harrison at stage6.

The direction's I got had a gen1 srt8 jeep on the front, and coffee stains. The only difference I saw between manual and auto was the blue/white vs blue and how the switch was powered, both applications in my writeup used the micro. Just called Harrison to see if the candy I sent made it there. Both him and Dwight are informational. their number- 904-379-4921

I would def use the switch instead of brake pedal as any sort of small engagement would activate the box, which I personally wouldn't want.

Fair warning, the click sound of the switch gets to be annoying, and there isn't any way around it unless you tie into clutch or brake power (which I did not, just to reiterate)

I dig your mounting style, might have to copy that as mine is just double side taped inside the fender so I can get a flathead on the box to adjust settings. These cars love 4100rpms (or at least mine does)

 

[GreenMachine15]

That is my number one reason for wanting to use a positive wire from the brake pedal. I have used micro switches before and can not stand the click click click.

 

[jakelind707]

That is my number one reason for wanting to use a positive wire from the brake pedal. I have used micro switches before and can not stand the click click click.

I would try it then, worst case you just have to crawl under and redo the activation system.

The click gets drowned out with music mostly, but it's definitely like a droplet of water hitting your forehead if in traffic lol

Lemme know what you end up doing, I couldn't find a single person who used the factory clutch switch power, and most others that used brake pedal activation had it powered off a 2nd switch like you have wired in your carbon panel so they could burnout properly without hitting 2step.

 

[jakelind707]

for Greenmachine - YouTube

50mph roll @ 4100rpm, 50°F out so it slid a tiny bit and this is without cleaning off/heating the tires

 

[Rat57az]

How is this different than using the launch control button?

 

[jakelind707]

How is this different than using the launch control button?

I can hit mine off clutch, the car can roll or move during this where as with launch it has to be perfectly flat and not moving. Makes staging a *****.

For auto cars the settings are tighter, your rpm levels are in different increments this can be set at 1000 above idle (1750 low) and as high as the engine will turn. Factory launch control also can only be used with some sort of TC on, this can run with all assists off which is what you'd want in a race. Running tc on inhibits power too much and costs you races.

Roll racing is huge near me and this allows me to stomp 9lbs of boost immediately down to the wheels, which would not be possible otherwise.