Be sure to take plenty of pictures
Thanks, sounds great too, just haven’t finishing posting all the pictures. As far as amps go you want to select an amp that delivers the recommended continuous amp rating RMS value.Crutchfield has a number of articles on this.Looks great!! I was thinking of going the adding a amp route. What would you suggest?
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How does it soundNext step is to remove the HK subs from the box, create a new sub wiring harness and install the new subs.
There are many ways to wire the subs up. I decided to modify the sub harness and use them as an input into the amplifier. That way I could solder the two plastic connectors back on, an easy modification to put it back to stock. I did not want to splice into the main harness. You can see the grey end attaches to the main harness and the 3 connectors go to the subs. The factory subs are dual voice coil so two connectors go to the left most sub and the other goes to the right sub.
Also notice there is a thick rubber grommet which plugs the wire hole up and passes the wires out of the sub box. I did not want to cut that up so I found a tapered rubber stopper that fit perfectly for the job. There will be more detail in the next post about how I modified the harness etc.
Below is a pic of the factory subs and wiring harness. Amazing how light these subs are, I think if I left the HK subs in the box and just added an amp I could come very close to the improvement I wanted to make. But neve bothered to take that approach and went for new subs.
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Empty sub box, I shaved down the little raised nubs where the factory mounting holes are located so the new subs sit flush.
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I ran two sets of speaker wire through my new grommet. The thin side will be pushed through the hole in the sub box to pass the wires through
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I soldered a 4 wire auto connector I bough on eBay so I can easily detach the sub box just like stock
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Added some poly-fill to help dampen the subs
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Wired up the new subs, they fit perfect from a depth perspective. The only issues is they have 8 holes where the factory has 6 so you have to make additional holes in the sub box. I used #8 3/4” self taping plastic screws and they worked fine. Just be careful not to over tighten them, the plastic in the box is not all that thick and you could strip the holes if you are not careful. I recommend hand tightening them.
Wired up the subs to the new sub harness
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Self taping screws
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The new subs are now installed in the box, notice how the new sub wire harness is installed as well. Looks pretty good.
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Thanks for the info!!Thanks, sounds great too, just haven’t finishing posting all the pictures. As far as amps go you want to select an amp that delivers the recommended continuous amp rating RMS value.Crutchfield has a number of articles on this.
I would not know the right amp to power the stock subs since I don’t know anything about them, but would assume a lower end amp would work.
I would look for the features that I found in the amp I selected, it has bass boost, variable frequency settings, and high current speaker inputs with auto turn on.
Hi, the stock subwoofers were only held on by the screws. With that being said, I did have to apply some pressure to release them from the sub box. There is a plastic tab that aligns each sub so it may need a little help with a large flat screwdriver to break it loose.Were the HK subs stuck in your box? I tried removing mine so I could add polyfill to the box but they seemed to be screwed and glued in. I was being somewhat general so I did not break anything and figured I would ask if there was a trick to popping them out? I left the box in the trunk so it may be easier if I remove the complete box maybe. Great write up. I’m thinking of adding some phenoix gold 12’s along with the stock subs and am researching ways to go.
I mounted it to a board under the carpet. Screwed the amp into the board. Here are a few more pics.Thanks for taking the time to put this together. Going to use your info and do something similar.
Just curious, how do you have the amp secured?