[Hellcat_1320]

Hello everyone, I recently installed a BMR icebox and I cannot get it clear of air. I’ve tried every trick in the book and what’s recommended by BMR.
Issue 1: I get movement at idle (water in the box and pressure out the blower bleed valve. As soon as I test drive half way down the block “ic fluid low” hits and the pump STOPS working. Does the OEM pump run harder (flow more) in drive, causing a large pocket to move that don’t at idle? Could the pump be shot? 10k miles on the car.
issue two: if I completely remove the bleeder valve on the blower water comes out (at idle) like a faucet not a hose. I was expecting more velocity? Sign of bad pump or normal?
issue 3: has anyone swapped the oem pump for an EMP in the stock location?
I have a 1/2 NPT tap/drill coming so I can modify the BMR box lid/cap to be vacuum filled (or at least attempt that).

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

[Unholy707]

Hello everyone, I recently installed a BMR icebox and I cannot get it clear of air. I’ve tried every trick in the book and what’s recommended by BMR.
Issue 1: I get movement at idle (water in the box and pressure out the blower bleed valve. As soon as I test drive half way down the block “ic fluid low” hits and the pump STOPS working. Does the OEM pump run harder (flow more) in drive, causing a large pocket to move that don’t at idle? Could the pump be shot? 10k miles on the car.
issue two: if I completely remove the bleeder valve on the blower water comes out (at idle) like a faucet not a hose. I was expecting more velocity? Sign of bad pump or normal?
issue 3: has anyone swapped the oem pump for an EMP in the stock location?
I have a 1/2 NPT tap/drill coming so I can modify the BMR box lid/cap to be vacuum filled (or at least attempt that).

Any insight is greatly appreciated. View attachment 592845

What brand throttle body is that man? Loving it! Yes, a few people have swapped for a reprogrammed emp pump. What you could try to do is vaccum fill the system (which is recommended by Dodge), but you would need to make a custom fitting for the ice box, so not sure how it would work

 

[HC5120]

I installed both the BMR tank and the bwoody heat exchanger and initially forgot to purge the system with the bleeder valve on the blower. I got that "IC fluid low" too. I bled it until fluid came out, and then it all worked as it should.

When I bled it, the water came out like a faucet, as you say, with not much velocity, so I don't think that's unusual what you are describing there.

Is the hose on the back of the tank kinked? Did you use a 45 degree fitting rather than the straight one that comes with the kit, and a hose with a 90 degree bend in it? Could there be an obstruction there?

 

[Hellcat_1320]

What brand throttle body is that man? Loving it! Yes, a few people have swapped for a reprogrammed emp pump. What you could try to do is vaccum fill the system (which is recommended by Dodge), but you would need to make a custom fitting for the ice box, so not sure how it would work

It’s from Late Model Throttle out of Wisconsin

 

[Hellcat_1320]

I installed both the BMR tank and the bwoody heat exchanger and initially forgot to purge the system with the bleeder valve on the blower. I got that "IC fluid low" too. I bled it until fluid came out, and then it all worked as it should.

When I bled it, the water came out like a faucet, as you say, with not much velocity, so I don't think that's unusual what you are describing there.

Is the hose on the back of the tank kinked? Did you use a 45 degree fitting rather than the straight one that comes with the kit, and a hose with a 90 degree bend in it? Could there be an obstruction there?

Good too know about the bleeder flow I was hoping someone would comment on that. The rear line is perfect no kink or anything. I’m attempting the custom port for vacuum today. Either it’s taking in air somewhere (but there are no leaks or seepage), still has air, or the stock pump is having issues. The stock pump is just not impressive…

 

[HC5120]

I just started a thread about IC pumps. I talked to BMR and FI interchillers. The stock pump is for a stock setup. I am going to upgrade it to something else. Stock pump is designed for the system that comes with the car. You start changing things and it just doesn't keep up.

BMR said that the stock pump doesn't handle increased head pressure well at all and it's efficiency drops a lot when it sees more pressure than what it's designed for. That may be what's happening due to the additional fluid. BMR also told me once the pump air locks they tend to wear out faster.

I had to make a custom lid to use a vacuum fill tool on my setup, but it still flows pretty weak. No reason not to throw a high quality pump on there. When you stick the tool on the system you will know if there's a leak. Mine held 22-24 inches of vacuum for more than a minute and never moved after that even until I removed the tool.

 

[Unholy707]

All of these threads lately have cemented my decision to not get any of those stuff and go with a chiller and stock coolant volume. Upgraded pump costs almost as much as a new chiller kit, add that to the cost of the bmr tank, a different heat exchanger, you’re at or above the chiller cost.

 

[Unholy707]

Who can tell me who makes this throttle body and the specs

 

[HC5120]

BMR reservoir, pump, and race HE total is $1,557.00, or with the street HE is $1,457.00

FI Interchiller is $2,460.00 on their site right now for the stage 2 kit. Stage 1 is $1,618.00

Choose whatever works best for your application. There is always something to work out no matter which way you go.

FI says you want a 3 gallon reservoir with their chiller for drag racing. Here is a link to some info on it. FI Tech article

 

[Unholy707]

BMR reservoir, pump, and race HE total is $1,557.00, or with the street HE is $1,457.00

FI Interchiller is $2,460.00 on their site right now for the stage 2 kit. Stage 1 is $1,618.00

Choose whatever works best for your application. There is always something to work out no matter which way you go.

FI says you want a 3 gallon reservoir with their chiller for drag racing. Here is a link to some info on it. FI Tech article

You sure?, you need to do the conversion to US dollars. That’s Australian currency isn’t it?

 

[HC5120]

Yes, might have some numbers messed up there.

 

[Speedy]

@fumanchu182 had similar problems with that tank and made up some kind of adapter to allow it to be vacuumed down to get the air out. Seems odd you'd have to go that far, but is what it is I guess.

 

[fumanchu182]

Not odd at all. The FSM states the IC system MUST be filled under vacuum for the air pump lock reasons. When you install BMR tanks you remove the stock expansion tank that the vacuum tools usually would fit in. What I did was have a separate lid machined so that I could insert the tool into the tank when I need to drain coolant. I get around 25 PSI of vacuum with my shitty central pneumatic 3 gallon 1/3 hp compressor. Here is the lid in all its glory:

Dodge techs fill under vacuum. Its the only fool proof way to not have air. @Speedy I know you will be doing this soon, snap on and oem tools make great vacuum tools for this!

for references on how to change the pump in the tune reference my post here:

BWoody Heat Exchanger install, race version, and BMR ice...

F active interchiller. Sat on my money for six months with no kit. Cancelled after multiple calls and conversations where he was sick/parts/whatever.

www.hellcat.org

 

[Speedy]

I've always just run the IC pump on high and bled the system from the bleed screw on the top of the blower. Took a few drive cycles of topping up the IC res to normailize. Vacuum would be quicker and easier for sure so I may snag a tool for my upcoming project.

 

[HC5120]

I've always just run the IC pump on high and bled the system from the bleed screw on the top of the blower. Took a few drive cycles of topping up the IC res to normailize. Vacuum would be quicker and easier for sure so I may snag a tool for my upcoming project.

That works for a stock reservoir, but for the BMR reservoir you can't use the bleed screw in the back of the blower because it will suck air in through the bleed screw. I modded my cap like fumanchu did.

With all the problems I had getting air out of the pump suction side line, I would for sure get the tool and use it even on a stock system.

I got a cheapy one from harbor freight. Only place that had one. Works great.

 

[Speedy]

Got a PN for the tool?

 

[Unholy707]

Got a PN for the tool?

OEM tools makes a nice one, don’t have the part number handy. Fumanchu should

 

[fumanchu182]

Got a PN for the tool?

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[Speedy]

Totally getting this.

 

[HC5120]

Hello everyone, I recently installed a BMR icebox and I cannot get it clear of air. I’ve tried every trick in the book and what’s recommended by BMR.
Issue 1: I get movement at idle (water in the box and pressure out the blower bleed valve. As soon as I test drive half way down the block “ic fluid low” hits and the pump STOPS working. Does the OEM pump run harder (flow more) in drive, causing a large pocket to move that don’t at idle? Could the pump be shot? 10k miles on the car.
issue two: if I completely remove the bleeder valve on the blower water comes out (at idle) like a faucet not a hose. I was expecting more velocity? Sign of bad pump or normal?
issue 3: has anyone swapped the oem pump for an EMP in the stock location?
I have a 1/2 NPT tap/drill coming so I can modify the BMR box lid/cap to be vacuum filled (or at least attempt that).

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

I think the problem is the pump itself, not air being in the system. I don't think the pump can handle the additional head pressure, from talking to various performance places online. Mine was the same way, When I first installed, seemed like there was good movement of water, but then pretty quick it just is hardly moving. I have used the vacuum tool numerous times, but it's just lack of water flow at this point. I was also told that if the pump air locks, then they don't last too much longer usually.

There is no aftermarket bolt up IC pump that I have come across. I am installing the CWA400 (nobody has the EMP) this week.

The CWA400 pump is $325.00. I talked to BMR fab and FI and neither are very positive about the stock pump. It's designed for the stock system.

I will be posting on the CWA400 install later this week. Going to have to make a bracket and do some creative plumbing from the looks of it.