Oem IC pump concerns after ice box install.

I installed both the BMR tank and the bwoody heat exchanger and initially forgot to purge the system with the bleeder valve on the blower. I got that "IC fluid low" too. I bled it until fluid came out, and then it all worked as it should.

When I bled it, the water came out like a faucet, as you say, with not much velocity, so I don't think that's unusual what you are describing there.

Is the hose on the back of the tank kinked? Did you use a 45 degree fitting rather than the straight one that comes with the kit, and a hose with a 90 degree bend in it? Could there be an obstruction there?

I just started a thread about IC pumps. I talked to BMR and FI interchillers. The stock pump is for a stock setup. I am going to upgrade it to something else. Stock pump is designed for the system that comes with the car. You start changing things and it just doesn't keep up.

BMR said that the stock pump doesn't handle increased head pressure well at all and it's efficiency drops a lot when it sees more pressure than what it's designed for. That may be what's happening due to the additional fluid. BMR also told me once the pump air locks they tend to wear out faster.

I had to make a custom lid to use a vacuum fill tool on my setup, but it still flows pretty weak. No reason not to throw a high quality pump on there. When you stick the tool on the system you will know if there's a leak. Mine held 22-24 inches of vacuum for more than a minute and never moved after that even until I removed the tool.

BMR reservoir, pump, and race HE total is $1,557.00, or with the street HE is $1,457.00

FI Interchiller is $2,460.00 on their site right now for the stage 2 kit. Stage 1 is $1,618.00

Choose whatever works best for your application. There is always something to work out no matter which way you go.

FI says you want a 3 gallon reservoir with their chiller for drag racing. Here is a link to some info on it. FI Tech article

Yes, might have some numbers messed up there.

Speedy said:

I've always just run the IC pump on high and bled the system from the bleed screw on the top of the blower. Took a few drive cycles of topping up the IC res to normailize. Vacuum would be quicker and easier for sure so I may snag a tool for my upcoming project.

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That works for a stock reservoir, but for the BMR reservoir you can't use the bleed screw in the back of the blower because it will suck air in through the bleed screw. I modded my cap like fumanchu did.

With all the problems I had getting air out of the pump suction side line, I would for sure get the tool and use it even on a stock system.

I got a cheapy one from harbor freight. Only place that had one. Works great.

Hellcat_1320 said:

Hello everyone, I recently installed a BMR icebox and I cannot get it clear of air. I’ve tried every trick in the book and what’s recommended by BMR.
Issue 1: I get movement at idle (water in the box and pressure out the blower bleed valve. As soon as I test drive half way down the block “ic fluid low” hits and the pump STOPS working. Does the OEM pump run harder (flow more) in drive, causing a large pocket to move that don’t at idle? Could the pump be shot? 10k miles on the car.
issue two: if I completely remove the bleeder valve on the blower water comes out (at idle) like a faucet not a hose. I was expecting more velocity? Sign of bad pump or normal?
issue 3: has anyone swapped the oem pump for an EMP in the stock location?
I have a 1/2 NPT tap/drill coming so I can modify the BMR box lid/cap to be vacuum filled (or at least attempt that).

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

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I think the problem is the pump itself, not air being in the system. I don't think the pump can handle the additional head pressure, from talking to various performance places online. Mine was the same way, When I first installed, seemed like there was good movement of water, but then pretty quick it just is hardly moving. I have used the vacuum tool numerous times, but it's just lack of water flow at this point. I was also told that if the pump air locks, then they don't last too much longer usually.

There is no aftermarket bolt up IC pump that I have come across. I am installing the CWA400 (nobody has the EMP) this week.

The CWA400 pump is $325.00. I talked to BMR fab and FI and neither are very positive about the stock pump. It's designed for the stock system.

I will be posting on the CWA400 install later this week. Going to have to make a bracket and do some creative plumbing from the looks of it.

I am going to put it right where the old one was, at least that's the plan, in that general location. It is clocked completely backwards, iirc, so we'll see what we come up with, ha ha. We can be pretty resourceful when necessary.

Hellcat 1320, very nice install and fab work. That is really cool.

Perhaps the air locking of the pump is what then caused it to not work properly.

Have you run just the oem pump when you track the car? What happens when the system gets hot? My IC Low message would come on at the top of the track, when there was a lot more heat and therefore pressure in the system. But then I may have damaged the pump prior to that with the lines collapsing or air in the system, idk.

Like I said, I have no idea. In another thread on this topic, he found that the return line was collapsing. Again, I have no idea what's going on with this. That's why I am going back to stock reservoir and lines, and going back to driving the car and bracket racing, and just accepting that I have to do a little more work for cool down.

So the saga of the IC pump has reached its conclusion for me. As I mentioned above, the aftermarket pump blew a fuse due to a wiring snafu caused by me. I replaced the fuse and put the stock pump back in and removed the BMR tank. Well, no power to the pump and just couldn't figure it out. . .wait for it. . . .

So. . .uhm. . . well... turns out. . . yes. . . when I replaced the fuse I put it in the wrong slot. The lesson cost me $212.00 at the dealership since the tech figured I had a clue, and so he did all the diagnostics and stuff before looking at the fuse box, lol.

As mentioned earlier, I am sticking with the stock reservoir and stock IC pump. Looking forward to getting back to the track and running the car, though the next races aren't for about three weeks.

Okay, let the snarky comments begin.

I took a little trip to the lesson window, as my dad would say. A trip to the lesson window can cost you time, pain, or money, and sometime all three. I was actually relieved since I thought maybe I'd fried something in the pcm or who knows what.