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Oem IC pump concerns after ice box install.

2994 Views 30 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  HC5120
Hello everyone, I recently installed a BMR icebox and I cannot get it clear of air. I’ve tried every trick in the book and what’s recommended by BMR.
Issue 1: I get movement at idle (water in the box and pressure out the blower bleed valve. As soon as I test drive half way down the block “ic fluid low” hits and the pump STOPS working. Does the OEM pump run harder (flow more) in drive, causing a large pocket to move that don’t at idle? Could the pump be shot? 10k miles on the car.
issue two: if I completely remove the bleeder valve on the blower water comes out (at idle) like a faucet not a hose. I was expecting more velocity? Sign of bad pump or normal?
issue 3: has anyone swapped the oem pump for an EMP in the stock location?
I have a 1/2 NPT tap/drill coming so I can modify the BMR box lid/cap to be vacuum filled (or at least attempt that).

Any insight is greatly appreciated.
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I think the problem is the pump itself, not air being in the system. I don't think the pump can handle the additional head pressure, from talking to various performance places online. Mine was the same way, When I first installed, seemed like there was good movement of water, but then pretty quick it just is hardly moving. I have used the vacuum tool numerous times, but it's just lack of water flow at this point. I was also told that if the pump air locks, then they don't last too much longer usually.

There is no aftermarket bolt up IC pump that I have come across. I am installing the CWA400 (nobody has the EMP) this week.

The CWA400 pump is $325.00. I talked to BMR fab and FI and neither are very positive about the stock pump. It's designed for the stock system.

I will be posting on the CWA400 install later this week. Going to have to make a bracket and do some creative plumbing from the looks of it.
Where ya gonna put it?
I am going to put it right where the old one was, at least that's the plan, in that general location. It is clocked completely backwards, iirc, so we'll see what we come up with, ha ha. We can be pretty resourceful when necessary.
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I am going to put it right where the old one was, at least that's the plan, in that general location. It is clocked completely backwards, iirc, so we'll see what we come up with, ha ha. We can be pretty resourceful when necessary.
I’m not sure if it’ll throw any CEL’s though. Don’t want a limp issue because of the stock pump not being there - I think that’s why a lot of people run them in conjunction with the stock pump
You can turn off the cel, car will not go into limp because of the water pump not working.
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You can turn off the cel, car will not go into limp because of the water pump not working.
Good to know! Thanks for confirming
I think the problem is the pump itself, not air being in the system. I don't think the pump can handle the additional head pressure, from talking to various performance places online. Mine was the same way, When I first installed, seemed like there was good movement of water, but then pretty quick it just is hardly moving. I have used the vacuum tool numerous times, but it's just lack of water flow at this point. I was also told that if the pump air locks, then they don't last too much longer usually.

There is no aftermarket bolt up IC pump that I have come across. I am installing the CWA400 (nobody has the EMP) this week.

The CWA400 pump is $325.00. I talked to BMR fab and FI and neither are very positive about the stock pump. It's designed for the stock system.

I will be posting on the CWA400 install later this week. Going to have to make a bracket and do some creative plumbing from the looks of it.
I shit canned the BMR and did a custom tank in the truck and kept the oem pump in-line even with the pump at the ice tank. No issues and I have the aftermarket pump on a switch if I turn it off the oem pump moves the water still
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Hellcat 1320, very nice install and fab work. That is really cool.

Perhaps the air locking of the pump is what then caused it to not work properly.

Have you run just the oem pump when you track the car? What happens when the system gets hot? My IC Low message would come on at the top of the track, when there was a lot more heat and therefore pressure in the system. But then I may have damaged the pump prior to that with the lines collapsing or air in the system, idk.

Like I said, I have no idea. In another thread on this topic, he found that the return line was collapsing. Again, I have no idea what's going on with this. That's why I am going back to stock reservoir and lines, and going back to driving the car and bracket racing, and just accepting that I have to do a little more work for cool down.
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that clear hose collapsing with the suction of the pump causing cavitation maybe.
that clear hose collapsing with the suction of the pump causing cavitation maybe.
That’s the new setup not the old w BMR tank. And the clear hose is much stronger than coolant hose.
So the saga of the IC pump has reached its conclusion for me. As I mentioned above, the aftermarket pump blew a fuse due to a wiring snafu caused by me. I replaced the fuse and put the stock pump back in and removed the BMR tank. Well, no power to the pump and just couldn't figure it out. . .wait for it. . . .

So. . .uhm. . . well... turns out. . . yes. . . when I replaced the fuse I put it in the wrong slot. The lesson cost me $212.00 at the dealership since the tech figured I had a clue, and so he did all the diagnostics and stuff before looking at the fuse box, lol.

As mentioned earlier, I am sticking with the stock reservoir and stock IC pump. Looking forward to getting back to the track and running the car, though the next races aren't for about three weeks.

Okay, let the snarky comments begin.
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I took a little trip to the lesson window, as my dad would say. A trip to the lesson window can cost you time, pain, or money, and sometime all three. I was actually relieved since I thought maybe I'd fried something in the pcm or who knows what.
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