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Cool. I talked to HHP about that blower and they said it really shines with race gas, or I suppose E85.

Stock engine?

1700 horsepower on HHP dyno, according to their site.

Big thing will be keeping it cool. Are you running an interchiller? The E85 should help, right?

What other mods do you have?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cool. I talked to HHP about that blower and they said it really shines with race gas, or I suppose E85.

Stock engine?

1700 horsepower on HHP dyno, according to their site.

Big thing will be keeping it cool. Are you running an interchiller? The E85 should help, right?

What other mods do you have?
Shouldn’t have any trouble with cooling at the boost level that I’m going to run. Stock engine for now,but definitely going to turn it up in the future. Fuel modifications to support ID1300’s and suspension mods to keep everything from moving. Welds with ET street R’s for traction.
 

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Shouldn’t have any trouble with cooling at the boost level that I’m going to run. Stock engine for now,but definitely going to turn it up in the future. Fuel modifications to support ID1300’s and suspension mods to keep everything from moving. Welds with ET street R’s for traction.
Why does someone buy a big blower and only want to run it at a fraction of its potential? People in Mustang land do this all the time, and it does my head in. It's like... hey great, they have an F1-R ProCharger on their Coyote that they spent 20 grand on but they didn't want to spend $1,500 on upgraded pistons so they left it at 12-14psi when that thing is happy at 18+. In this example, a D1X ProCharger, which costs HALF the F1-R makes 12 psi.

It's your car, do whatever you like, but I just get a little funny faced when someone is already in the engine doing work and for some reason just doesn't do the due diligence and finish the build, thus resulting in a lot of money wasted.

Lastly, I think you're going to find that your stock cooler pump isn't going to cool well beyond stock boost levels. I had no problem heat soaking my stock car at the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why does someone buy a big blower and only want to run it at a fraction of its potential? People in Mustang land do this all the time, and it does my head in. It's like... hey great, they have an F1-R ProCharger on their Coyote that they spent 20 grand on but they didn't want to spend $1,500 on upgraded pistons so they left it at 12-14psi when that thing is happy at 18+. In this example, a D1X ProCharger, which costs HALF the F1-R makes 12 psi.

It's your car, do whatever you like, but I just get a little funny faced when someone is already in the engine doing work and for some reason just doesn't do the due diligence and finish the build, thus resulting in a lot of money wasted.

Lastly, I think you're going to find that your stock cooler pump isn't going to cool well beyond stock boost levels. I had no problem heat soaking my stock car at the track.
The Whipple will run a lot cooler than the 2.7. I would have had to run the 2.7 near it’s breaking point to accomplish the power that I want. I don’t want to cut my car up for a cage and mini tubs to be able to put down 1700hp With a fully built motor setup.
 

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The Whipple will run a lot cooler than the 2.7. I would have had to run the 2.7 near it’s breaking point to accomplish the power that I want. I don’t want to cut my car up for a cage and mini tubs to be able to put down 1700hp With a fully built motor setup.
My point was that on a stock motor, you could have probably just pulleyed the car and tuned it for e85 and gotten around the same power output as doing the blower swap and neutering the boost on it and saved yourself 12 grand or so?

And, in the off chance that you're wrong or something goes mechanically sideways with the build, you have to pay again to open it back up and re-do the job that could have been done earlier at a fraction of the overall cost. That's all I'm getting at. Building it once right may initially cost a little more, but it's a lot cheaper than having to do a job twice.
 

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Mini tubs? You can put 6” of tub - it won’t help you. Tire will hit shock

Frame it tub it narrow a 9 inch : )

Still won’t hook on the street but at least it will look fast
 

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Why does someone buy a big blower and only want to run it at a fraction of its potential? People in Mustang land do this all the time, and it does my head in. It's like... hey great, they have an F1-R ProCharger on their Coyote that they spent 20 grand on but they didn't want to spend $1,500 on upgraded pistons so they left it at 12-14psi when that thing is happy at 18+. In this example, a D1X ProCharger, which costs HALF the F1-R makes 12 psi.

It's your car, do whatever you like, but I just get a little funny faced when someone is already in the engine doing work and for some reason just doesn't do the due diligence and finish the build, thus resulting in a lot of money wasted.

Lastly, I think you're going to find that your stock cooler pump isn't going to cool well beyond stock boost levels. I had no problem heat soaking my stock car at the track.
That's exactly my logic. I went and got a hhp short block fully studded with supporting mods before I add a blower. As we speak right now I'm getting a newer version of the killer chiller drag kit installed at Joe's in Albuquerque. They're actually using my car for a test mule for one of their upcoming drag kits. Went with a demon driveshaft instead of an aluminum, adjustable rear control arms, and a brace. Also upgraded the fuel system to an hhp dual pump with external filter.and id1300s. I think the blower is the last thing that should go on to compliment your supporting mods. I am looking to get the Whipple 3.0 as soon as everything else is done and dialed in. Right now I'm running the stock 2.4 blower with just a 2.85 upper, blower spacers and blanket, and a JLT. Decided to keep the lower pulley stock size but just keyed. Build around your power adder.. I come from building multiple Terminator cobras that's my logic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That's exactly my logic. I went and got a hhp short block fully studded with supporting mods before I add a blower. As we speak right now I'm getting a newer version of the killer chiller drag kit installed at Joe's in Albuquerque. They're actually using my car for a test mule for one of their upcoming drag kits. Went with a demon driveshaft instead of an aluminum, adjustable rear control arms, and a brace. Also upgraded the fuel system to an hhp dual pump with external filter.and id1300s. I think the blower is the last thing that should go on to compliment your supporting mods. I am looking to get the Whipple 3.0 as soon as everything else is done and dialed in. Right now I'm running the stock 2.4 blower with just a 2.85 upper, blower spacers and blanket, and a JLT. Decided to keep the lower pulley stock size but just keyed. Build around your power adder.. I come from building multiple Terminator cobras that's my logic.
My car is a Redeye Jailbreak and comes factory with better rods,pistons,crank,heads and cam over a regular base Hellcat. It also comes factory with the 2.7 liter blower and Demon drivetrain. If my car was a base Hellcat then I would have thought about the bottom end before or during the blower swap.
 

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Build around your power adder..

I come from building multiple Terminator cobras that's my logic.
I always built around the camshaft as it is the mechanical “brain” in every reciprocating engine

Cam specs determined by application and goal and everything else is built around it
 
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My car is a Redeye Jailbreak and comes factory with better rods,pistons,crank,heads and cam over a regular base Hellcat. It also comes factory with the 2.7 liter blower and Demon drivetrain. If my car was a base Hellcat then I would have thought about the bottom end before or during the blower swap
I always built around the camshaft as it is the mechanical “brain” in every reciprocating engine

Cam specs determined by application and goal and everything else is built around it
Yes but I decided to keep the stock cam specs could have upgraded but I want be able to tune with ease. Might as well just throw more boost at it I think a cam is just more for sound on the Hellcat platform.
 

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My car is a Redeye Jailbreak and comes factory with better rods,pistons,crank,heads and cam over a regular base Hellcat. It also comes factory with the 2.7 liter blower and Demon drivetrain. If my car was a base Hellcat then I would have thought about the bottom end before or during the blower swap.
Well that's your way of thinking then why did you modify a jailbreak. Why would you pay 30,000 more?... There's redeyes popping lower ends along with demons. It's your car and you feel you do what's best. And I believe that newer jailbreaks are actually less horsepower due to the cat restrictions. To me not even worth the price. Right now my car is more stout than any factory jailbreak red eye or demon. On a side note beautiful car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well that's your way of thinking then why did you modify a jailbreak. Why would you pay 30,000 more?... There's redeyes popping lower ends along with demons. It's your car and you feel you do what's best. And I believe that newer jailbreaks are actually less horsepower due to the cat restrictions. To me not even worth the price. Right now my car is more stout than any factory jailbreak red eye or demon. On a side note beautiful car.
Thanks. Diff strokes for different folks, that’s what makes the world go a round
 

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Thanks. Diff strokes for different folks, that’s what makes the world go a round
My friend has a whipple 3.0 on his 17 mustang and with moderate boost probably like 10 psi, it heat soaks like mad. A lot of these kits, even when they cost 7 or 8 K come with minimal heat exchangers and pumps.

The nice thing is that you have a ton of headroom with the blower, that's for sure.

I just pulled off a 2.3 whipple from my 07 mustang GT. It ran great but even at 9psi heat soaked like crazy. It had the stock HE and pump that came with the kit. Going to go LS and nitrous. Should keep things cool. The whipple ran great when it wasn't hot. I had planned on a bigger pulley and 17 psi of boost, but it would have cost several thousand for an upgraded HE and pump system, plus rebuilding the 4.6, and I wasn't about to spend dollars on that motor.

Once it's installed you can monitor it at the track. Will be interesting to see what the IAT's are. It will be fine for a run or two, but then as the day goes on and more runs, it gets hotter and hotter, so that is where you'll have to see how good it cools. If you have an hour between each run, shouldn't have a problem.

I agree with the comment about the stock IC pump. From the people I've talked to, and my own experience, the stock pump has about zero headroom, and when you start changing things, adding more coolant, more heat/pressure, it will struggle. Again, you can monitor that and see how it holds up.

Good luck and let us know how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My friend has a whipple 3.0 on his 17 mustang and with moderate boost probably like 10 psi, it heat soaks like mad. A lot of these kits, even when they cost 7 or 8 K come with minimal heat exchangers and pumps.

The nice thing is that you have a ton of headroom with the blower, that's for sure.

I just pulled off a 2.3 whipple from my 07 mustang GT. It ran great but even at 9psi heat soaked like crazy. It had the stock HE and pump that came with the kit. Going to go LS and nitrous. Should keep things cool. The whipple ran great when it wasn't hot. I had planned on a bigger pulley and 17 psi of boost, but it would have cost several thousand for an upgraded HE and pump system, plus rebuilding the 4.6, and I wasn't about to spend dollars on that motor.

Once it's installed you can monitor it at the track. Will be interesting to see what the IAT's are. It will be fine for a run or two, but then as the day goes on and more runs, it gets hotter and hotter, so that is where you'll have to see how good it cools. If you have an hour between each run, shouldn't have a problem.

I agree with the comment about the stock IC pump. From the people I've talked to, and my own experience, the stock pump has about zero headroom, and when you start changing things, adding more coolant, more heat/pressure, it will struggle. Again, you can monitor that and see how it holds up.

Good luck and let us know how it works.
Wow, maybe I should hang onto my factory 2.7 blower just in case the Whipple doesn’t work out for me.
 

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Wow, maybe I should hang onto my factory 2.7 blower just in case the Whipple doesn’t work out for me.
The Whipple will work just fine. It's just that the stock cooling system almost certainly won't let it work just fine for longer than a few minutes.
 

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My 2.3 Whipple was an older style blower, not the newer one. But my friend's is the 3.0. It's just a fact that PD blowers make lots of heat. That's why those factory race cars all have ice tanks. You'd think that these expensive blowers all come with excellent heat exchangers and pumps, but that's not the case, and they usually come with a system that isn't even up to handling relatively low boost, and an upgraded system--HE, lines, pump--can run several thousand dollars (not including install, if you pay someone to do it), and nobody offers a complete HE/pump kit for our cars. Most run an ice tank or a chiller of some type. Everyone else I guess they just don't race that often or have plenty of cool down time. There must not be a market for a complete kit or someone would have put something together by now.

If you want to run the Whipple, go for it. Should be more efficient (less heat) compared to the 2.7 for the same power level. I think it's good to think about the heat issue, however, as it becomes a bigger and bigger problem/challenge as you increase boost.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My 2.3 Whipple was an older style blower, not the newer one. But my friend's is the 3.0. It's just a fact that PD blowers make lots of heat. That's why those factory race cars all have ice tanks. You'd think that these expensive blowers all come with excellent heat exchangers and pumps, but that's not the case, and they usually come with a system that isn't even up to handling relatively low boost, and an upgraded system--HE, lines, pump--can run several thousand dollars (not including install, if you pay someone to do it), and nobody offers a complete HE/pump kit for our cars. Most run an ice tank or a chiller of some type. Everyone else I guess they just don't race that often or have plenty of cool down time. There must not be a market for a complete kit or someone would have put something together by now.

If you want to run the Whipple, go for it. Should be more efficient (less heat) compared to the 2.7 for the same power level. I think it's good to think about the heat issue, however, as it becomes a bigger and bigger problem/challenge as you increase boost.
I already paid to have everything installed so I’m definitely going to give the Whipple a try. I’m not looking to go to the track weekly, but don’t want to have issues when I do. My car should be ready to pick up in a week so I will find out soon enough.
 

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I always built around the camshaft as it is the mechanical “brain” in every reciprocating engine

Cam specs determined by application and goal and everything else is built around it
There's a whole lot more that goes into a well planned build than just cam specs.
 

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Not saying there isn’t

Engine should be built for the application tho, not the blower

You don’t put alum rods in a street car for example : )
 
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