[SRT_HC_707]

When I changed my oil recently I wasn't crazy about the oil cooler drain setup. It's an aluminum line with a block of aluminium that is drilled and tapped for a drain plug. Nothing really supports the line.

You definitely need to support the boss where the plug screws in or you risk possibly twisting, damaging or breaking the line.

I was thinking a Fumoto valve or EZ Drain would be a good idea. I didn't think to measure the drain plug when I had it out but DrBuick did and he states the drain plug is 12 x 1.75 x 25 (12mm diameter, 1.75 thread pitch and 25mm thread length).

I was looking around and found a good site for EZDrain Welcome to OilDrainValve.net authorize online dealer of EZ Oil Drain Valve. I think I like the EZDrain better than Fumoto because EZDrain has a viton o-ring seal rather than a fiber washer (but either valve is excellent and pretty much the same. Difference is EZDrain has the o-ring and it is nickel plated over the brass housing).

Here is the parts list of what I'll probably get. Only the first item is required. The others are optional depending on what you want.

• EZ-107 (12mm x 1.75 drain valve)
• Small saftey clip (not required but I'd get this. It's a spring clamp that is a second protection against the valve opening. These valves will NEVER just open. You would have to hit them on something first. If you hit this you have bigger issues as you just wasted the front end of your car!)
• L-001 90 degree elbow (just to direct oil flow easier)
• 3/8" cap plug (only if you get L-001.. It's just a dust cover)
• 3/8" vinyl hose (It's a 3 foot piece. You can use any 3/8 hose. Just used to direct the oil flow. This will allow you to use one drain pan while draining both engine and cooler. You need the L-001 to attach the hose)

Here is what the EZDrain looks like. This type of valve has been around forever and they are used in many industrial applications. They are well made and don't leak/fail. The valve locks closed in the detent and a spring holds the lever there. The secondary clip also makes it so the valve can't be accidently pushed up but this really wouldn't happen in this application.

 

[B5 Blue]

Good stuff thanks!

 

[SRT_HC_707]

B5 Blue since we have confirmation from DrBuick on the measurements of the drain plug I created a WIKI entry for this item.

 

[281]

I checked them with mine out lol

 

[B5 Blue]

B5 Blue since we have confirmation from DrBuick on the measurements of the drain plug I created a WIKI entry for this item.

Super! One more thing I need for my car when it's built thanks!

 

[IA_Cat]

Great! I will order this. Wondering if I should do the same for the oil pan. I change my oil outside and the wind often blows the oil around. Which fittings would be used for the oil pan?

 

[SRT_HC_707]

DrBuick provided the following measurements

Oil cooler is 12x1.75 1 inch long
Oil pan is 14x1.5 3/4 inch long both from seal to end of plug

If you look here Size Chart - EZ Oil Drain Valve the EZ-106 is the right one for 14x1.5

 

[LForst]

Fr

When I changed my oil recently I wasn't crazy about the oil cooler drain setup. It's an aluminum line with a block of aluminium that is drilled and tapped for a drain plug. Nothing really supports the line.

You definitely need to support the boss where the plug screws in or you risk possibly twisting, damaging or breaking the line.

I was thinking a Fumoto valve or EZ Drain would be a good idea. I didn't think to measure the drain plug when I had it out but DrBuick did and he states the drain plug is 12 x 1.75 x 25 (12mm diameter, 1.75 thread pitch and 25mm thread length).

I was looking around and found a good site for EZDrain Welcome to OilDrainValve.net authorize online dealer of EZ Oil Drain Valve. I think I like the EZDrain better than Fumoto because EZDrain has a viton o-ring seal rather than a fiber washer (but either valve is excellent and pretty much the same. Difference is EZDrain has the o-ring and it is nickel plated over the brass housing).

Here is the parts list of what I'll probably get. Only the first item is required. The others are optional depending on what you want.

• EZ-107 (12mm x 1.75 drain valve)
• Small saftey clip (not required but I'd get this. It's a spring clamp that is a second protection against the valve opening. These valves will NEVER just open. You would have to hit them on something first. If you hit this you have bigger issues as you just wasted the front end of your car!)
• L-001 90 degree elbow (just to direct oil flow easier)
• 3/8" cap plug (only if you get L-001.. It's just a dust cover)
• 3/8" vinyl hose (It's a 3 foot piece. You can use any 3/8 hose. Just used to direct the oil flow. This will allow you to use one drain pan while draining both engine and cooler. You need the L-001 to attach the hose)

Here is what the EZDrain looks like. This type of valve has been around forever and they are used in many industrial applications. They are well made and don't leak/fail. The valve locks closed in the detent and a spring holds the lever there. The secondary clip also makes it so the valve can't be accidently pushed up but this really wouldn't happen in this application.

That's an awesome idea

 

[Deputydog]

Hmmmmm.. I happen to have an F-106 on the shelf (same size as my duramax) that I haven't yet installed. I was planning on doing my first oil change today on my Cat so I'll report back if the F-106 works on the oil cooler.

 

[SRT_HC_707]

Hmmmmm.. I happen to have an F-106 on the shelf (same size as my duramax) that I haven't yet installed. I was planning on doing my first oil change today on my Cat so I'll report back if the F-106 works on the oil cooler.

Deputydog Have you changed your oil? Curious if the F106 worked on size-wise for the oil cooler drain plug replacement.

I've got another change coming up in 350 miles but be nice to verify size with someone who has done it.

 

[SRT_HC_707]

Deputydog Have you changed your oil? Curious if the F106 worked on size-wise for the oil cooler drain plug replacement.

I've got another change coming up in 350 miles but be nice to verify size with someone who has done it.

Looking again though the cooler drain is the F or EZ 107. I think you might be doing the pan rather than the cooler?

 

[JonWrong]

Don't bother with the EZ-drains. I bought one or the oil pan and the cooler. Bother will not fit as the clearance for the top (switch) side will not allow you to tighten them down. You could get the EZ-drain on the cooler line if you removed the line from the cooler itself. The oil pan one would also go on if the pan was out of the car. But installing them in place will not work.

 

[JonWrong]

And FYI: the 107 model threads fit the oil cooler drain; the 106 threads fit the pan. You just cannot tighten them down due to clearance. I took a pic and can post later.

 

[IA_Cat]

I already ordered mine. I sure hope I can figure out a way to make them work. I'll be trying in a few weeks.

 

[JonWrong]

I already ordered mine. I sure hope I can figure out a way to make them work. I'll be trying in a few weeks.

Well, don't stick your head in the sand. I have been working on cars a long time, and I know what I am talking about. Here are pics of the two areas and where the top part of the EZ will hit before you can get them tight. The one for the oil cooler line hits almost immediately.

 

[IA_Cat]

Well, don't stick your head in the sand. I have been working on cars a long time, and I know what I am talking about. Here are pics of the two areas and where the top part of the EZ will hit before you can get them tight. The one for the oil cooler line hits almost immediately.

No head in sand here. However, I already own them so I plan to mess with it when I change the oil. I also purchased the A-106 and A-107. Do you think that's going to make a difference? BTW, thank you for the pics!

 

[SRT_HC_707]

And FYI: the 107 model threads fit the oil cooler drain; the 106 threads fit the pan. You just cannot tighten them down due to clearance. I took a pic and can post later.

JonWrong Good info. On the oil pan EZ Drain makes an adapter for the clearance issue you noted. Can't say for sure it will work without trying but the adapter is on this page PRODUCTS - EZ Oil Drain Valve

Bummer on the oil cooler line. I'll have to look at that closer next oil change since I have the valve but looking at the picture you posted there certainly looks to be an issue. Have you looked to see how the oil lines disconnect. I'm wondering if you can remove one or both from the engine to get some clearance to get the valve screwed in.

Thanks for the input.

 

[Deputydog]

I didn't install it, decided to keep the stock plug in it for now.. It did appear there would be a clearance issue as jonwrong mentioned.

 

[SRT_HC_707]

The adapter A106 short (there is also a long version) *might* solve the oil pan clearance issue.

 

[JonWrong]

I was concerned that pulling the oil cooler drain plug would cause problem over time, which is why I bought the EZ drain. Then, I thought (while in Rome) why not get one for the pan too. I can honestly say that the construction is good, and I am not concerned at all about longevity at the drain plug for the cooler now. As long as you hold the flat they made, it is very simple and not likely to cause problems. As for the extenders for the EZ drain, clearance is right (tighter than the pics really show). And an extender would not help on the oil cooler drain any way.

I would recommend just leaving it all alone. It was a nice idea (which is why I went for it), and the this thread let me find the right parts easily.