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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been waiting for my engine to be built and the only thing holding it up getting it finished is the ARP main studs. They've been on back order for months now. The date of arrival has been pushed back about three times now. I understand the shortage of raw materials is the issue. This is an hhp forged bottom end. Are there any other companies that make main studs for our cars. Would you just throw in the stock main bolts just to get this thing finished. I'm more than patient to keep waiting but I just want to hear your guys's opinions. My plan is to throw a Whipple 3.0 on it but those are also on backorder. I just want to get this car done it's been down for 6 months because of part availability.
 

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I don't know your build but if you're going to make more HP, I would not go with anything inferior. ARP has a good reputation. If you have to speed it up, I would find something equivalent to ARP specs. Maybe someone can locate a set for you but I doubt OEM is equivalent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't know your build but if you're going to make more HP, I would not go with anything inferior. ARP has a good reputation. If you have to speed it up, I would find something equivalent to ARP specs. Maybe someone can locate a set for you but I doubt OEM is equivalent.
Yeah most likely going to wait. I was trying to see if there was any difference in the demon main bolts but they're all the same as the 392s. About to be winter time so no sense in rushing it anymore. Summit is saying December and hhp is saying beginning of November but that's been pushed back multiple times.
 

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Yeah most likely going to wait. I was trying to see if there was any difference in the demon main bolts but they're all the same as the 392s. About to be winter time so no sense in rushing it anymore. Summit is saying December and hhp is saying beginning of November but that's been pushed back multiple times.
Gotcha, shortages seem to be a big thing still. I would call all the speed shops. Maybe you find one with a set in stock.
 
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Something to watch out for when switching from factory bolts to studs that most likely many builders have not caught and adjusted for. The 12 point nuts all taller then the bolt head they are replacing and on the rear main the inside of the oil pan hits the nuts and does not allow for the pan to sit flush with the back of the block like it should. This will cause a miss alignment with the bell housing. This might slide with an automatic but with a manual it could cause shifting issues and will put bending stress on the trans input shaft, crank pilot bearing, and trans bearings. With either I’m sure the miss alignment it creates is not good. I don’t have any pictures of the inside of the oil pan as I had to clearance it in place with a dremel and ball end cutters, using the shank side to make the relief. But here’s a picture of what to look out for. See in red circles on stud nuts the aluminum rubbed off on them from the pan and in pan where the interference is. Material needs to be removed there so pan can move forward to be flush with back of the block.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Something to watch out for when switching from factory bolts to studs that most likely many builders have not caught and adjusted for. The 12 point nuts all taller then the bolt head they are replacing and on the rear main the inside of the oil pan hits the nuts and does not allow for the pan to sit flush with the back of the block like it should. This will cause a miss alignment with the bell housing. This might slide with an automatic but with a manual it could cause shifting issues and will put bending stress on the trans input shaft, crank pilot bearing, and trans bearings. With either I’m sure the miss alignment it creates is not good. I don’t have any pictures of the inside of the oil pan as I had to clearance it in place with a dremel and ball end cutters, using the shank side to make the relief. But here’s a picture of what to look out for. See in red circles on stud nuts the aluminum rubbed off on them from the pan and in pan where the interference is. Material needs to be removed there so pan can move forward to be flush with back of the block.


View attachment 581001 View attachment 581002 View attachment 581003 View attachment 581004
So what would you do just get the stock main bolts? I just got another email saying that it got pushed to the end of January now and that's not even a definite ETA
 

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I am on the same boat as you (no pun intended). There is such a shortage on parts, its insane. I have a 4.5L Whipple on mine and the only thing left is the ARP main. Its been over 8 months for me. I am going to wait until they are in stock. I am not going to risk it with an inferior part, just for it to potentially break.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I am on the same boat as you (no pun intended). There is such a shortage on parts, its insane. I have a 4.5L Whipple on mine and the only thing left is the ARP main. Its been over 8 months for me. I am going to wait until they are in stock. I am not going to risk it with an inferior part, just for it to potentially break.
Well honestly you're probably going to be waiting till about January is what I've been told on arp hardware. Luckily Bruce over at hhp was able to find me some tool steel main studs just as good if not better then arp.my motor should be finally done by next week after being down since July
 
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