[Unholy707]

Get one of the Teslong articulated units from on Amazon, they’re GREAT!! I should have taken a few snap shots while I was looking in mine over the weekend, clearest low buck model I’ve ever used



A 3/8 wooden dowel 9” long dropped down the open spark plug hole. As soon as it stops moving stop rotation. With a Stick car just put it in 2nd, lock up E brake hard as possible, put chocks on both sides of tires. For a auto you have to get it bang on or it’s going to rotate, or get a helper to hold on tight to a ractchet-less breaker bar on the crank bolt to keep it from moving but watch the fingers as if it is let to drift off TDC it will take a finger off if sheared against the wrong thing in the engine bay, wear a heavy leather glove at the very least. (Another reason I HATE autos 😂)

As always thanks for all the good info Mike. I have one of those flexplate locking tools that stops the engine from turning over, it braces against the transmission case (gearhead fabrications). I’m assuming I can use that, people use them to pin cranks

 

[16GoManGoHC]

As always thanks for all the good info Mike. I have one of those flexplate locking tools that stops the engine from turning over, it braces against the transmission case (gearhead fabrications). I’m assuming I can use that, people use them to pin cranks

Yes, that is the perfect tool for such!!!

 

[khomes7]

So leakdown went ok at least for 6/8 I ran out of time for the last two. 1,2,3,4,5,7 were all the same except for 7 had 4 psi loss instead of 2/3 like the others. Doing solo is a pain finding TDC so I used the borescope to watch the cylinder from below. Statistically it’s unlikely 6/8 will be bad but I will check when I’m back. I am still awaiting oil analysis. I guess this is pointing to false knock or fuel? This forum has been so useful for this especially 16gomango. I have some octane booster here I’m gonna try on 93 to see what she does logging wise when it’s back together.
Im glad she’s not hurt and the likely 2/7 are fine but my questions aren’t answered and my issue not fixed.
Would installing colder plugs help at this point ward off knock? If so which would u recommend? What gap?

 

[16GoManGoHC]

NGK 2309 is what I have used for 4+ years now. Gapped at .028” is what I have used at your boost level (16-17 psi) and I use the same plug still at 23-25 psi but gapped a bit tighter at .023”.
Hint, use a long 1/2” drive flex head ratchet and rotate the crank from up top with one hand and keep the other hand on the dowel (I use a 8-9” long wooden dowel) and feel for it to stop at top of stroke.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

And go by the firing order next time, MUCH less engine rotation required. See it on the bottom of my record sheet? This is a built engine with much bigger cold ring gaps and piston to wall clearance then stock piston have, but your numbers so far, 3-4% on your stock engine nothing to fret about, run it.

 

[Spoolin]

So leakdown went ok at least for 6/8 I ran out of time for the last two. 1,2,3,4,5,7 were all the same except for 7 had 4 psi loss instead of 2/3 like the others. Doing solo is a pain finding TDC so I used the borescope to watch the cylinder from below. Statistically it’s unlikely 6/8 will be bad but I will check when I’m back. I am still awaiting oil analysis. I guess this is pointing to false knock or fuel? This forum has been so useful for this especially 16gomango. I have some octane booster here I’m gonna try on 93 to see what she does logging wise when it’s back together.
Im glad she’s not hurt and the likely 2/7 are fine but my questions aren’t answered and my issue not fixed.
Would installing colder plugs help at this point ward off knock? If so which would u recommend? What gap?

Be careful with octane boosters. They are known for fowling out the plugs pretty quickly.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Be careful with octane boosters. They are known for fowling out the plugs pretty quickly.

Agree this stuff leaves a residue that won’t go away and I shy away from this stuff like the plague (I’ve run cases and cases of the stuff I know what it does) but in the OP’s case it’s a quick test to help determine if knock is real or not. One Qt of Octanium Unleaded in 10 gallons of fuel will raise the octane a true 6/7 NUMBERS, not points like some octane boosters try and fool you with, real octane numbers. Like even take shitty 90 octane fuel and make it 96, 93 into a 100. If the car still produces STKR the same as before it was added it is most likely false knock and coming from something other then fuel induced detonation (true knock)

 

[Spoolin]

Agree this stuff leaves a residue that won’t go away and I shy away from this stuff like the plague (I’ve run cases and cases of the stuff I know what it does) but in the OP’s case it’s a quick test to help determine if knock is real or not. One Qt of Octanium Unleaded in 10 gallons of fuel will raise the octane a true 6/7 NUMBERS, not points like some octane boosters try and fool you with, real octane numbers. Like even take shitty 90 octane fuel and make it 96, 93 into a 100. If the car still produces STKR the same as before it was added it is most likely false knock and coming from something other then fuel induced detonation (true knock)

Very true if it's just for a knock test. I just wanted him to be aware of the possible issues with octane boosters in the case he may think he could run it long term.

 

[khomes7]

Blackstone report in. Some extra lead I’m assuming race fuel. Still waiting on these damn colder plugs usps is taking their time they shoulda been here w no shipping update. Once here I am gonna put back together, run fuel all out and put in octane booster and try again.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Blackstone report in. Some extra lead I’m assuming race fuel. Still waiting on these damn colder plugs usps is taking their time they shoulda been here w no shipping update. Once here I am gonna put back together, run fuel all out and put in octane booster and try again.

I can’t open the attachment, takes me to a site for center bearing supports. Can you post a picture of the report? Do it as a full image not an attachment.

 

[juanagofast]

I can’t open the attachment, takes me to a site for center bearing supports. Can you post a picture of the report? Do it as a full image not an attachment.

Worked for me, its a pdf file

 

[Unholy707]

Hopefully he’s not using leaded race fuel

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Ok, was able to view it on a computer not my phone. Between fuel in the oil, iron, copper, and lead I would think ring and bearing issue. I’ve used 0-40 PUP and an qt of octane booster per tank of fuel cases of it and never saw oil sample contents like that and I hammer on my engine. All cylinders show ok on leak down test?

 

[khomes7]

Yes all cylinders leaked down fine and I inspected all plugs and bores. I will have to look at the on car oil life , I feel like the oil was changed fairly recent like <500 miles and that’s what I put in the report. The fuel I used I’m not positive was leaded it was what I use for nitrous on my nova so the leaded part never mattered for me as it doesn’t use oxygen sensors. Figured a few gallons of leaded even if it was wouldn’t hurt them. The report says statistically my lead content percentage is from a higher mile oil change and they recommend changing and sending another sample to see if it continues. I visually inspected and didn’t see any fine metal in the sun or anything to suggest robust bearing failure . Every time I’ve had an internal problem in the past w other motors visually it showed up on the sun w oil test but that’s on older technology engines.

 

[khomes7]

Yes all cylinders leaked down fine and I inspected all plugs and bores. I will have to look at the on car oil life , I feel like the oil was changed fairly recent like <500 miles and that’s what I put in the report. The fuel I used I’m not positive was leaded it was what I use for nitrous on my nova so the leaded part never mattered for me as it doesn’t use oxygen sensors. Figured a few gallons of leaded even if it was wouldn’t hurt them. The report says statistically my lead content percentage is from a higher mile oil change and they recommend changing and sending another sample to see if it continues. I visually inspected and didn’t see any fine metal in the sun or anything to suggest robust bearing failure . Every time I’ve had an internal problem in the past w other motors visually it showed up on the sun w oil test but that’s on older technology engines.

Blackstone mentions modern engines have aluminum bimetal bearings and they thought the hellcat may use those. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Blackstone mentions modern engines have aluminum bimetal bearings and they thought the hellcat may use those. Can anyone confirm this?

The bearings I removed looked like aluminum based bearings, they looked like brand new upon removal

 

[khomes7]

I called the gas station that sells the fuel and it is 110 renegade. After looking it up it looks like it is in fact leaded fuel so to me would explain the high lead content. Unless they make a 110 that is unleaded. The gas station attendant did not know if it was or wasn’t.

RENEGADE PRO 110+ – Renegade Race Fuel

renegaderacefuel.com

 

[khomes7]

I do not know what to think about the iron content tho and cannot explain that.

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Here’s pics of them

 

[khomes7]

Logged the voltages and sensors today. They are both equally seeing 2V at 4K. I found an old thread where Speedy had the same exact issue and it sounds like he determined it to be false knock.

Desensitizing Hellcat Knock Sensors | Durango SRT Forum



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