I was waiting till I got this squared away. It has taken months . It is my next project (January) but my faith in flex is not the best at the moment.OP
It looks like you have your hands full at the moment, but I’m curious if you ever got around to converting your TRX to E85 flex?
I get it, I would want to wait until I knew it was safe as well. I hope you get your current build all squared away. Good luck, Sir! Any updates?I was waiting till I got this squared away. It has taken months . It is my next project (January) but my faith in flex is not the best at the moment.
I ultimately found help from one of our very helpful forum members 16gomango that solved the issue. My tuner was not really willing to offer much in the realm of trouble shooting. After ruling out mechanical issues I had to tweak the knock sensor values around that range and the big timing pull went away. Drives great now and I have had no issues with around 500 miles. I never see more than 1.5 V from the knock sensors on the logs and only at that one spot so I do believe it to be false.I get it, I would want to wait until I knew it was safe as well. I hope you get your current build all squared away. Good luck, Sir! Any updates?
What tuner so I know who not to call...I ultimately found help from one of our very helpful forum members 16gomango that solved the issue. My tuner was not really willing to offer much in the realm of trouble shooting. After ruling out mechanical issues I had to tweak the knock sensor values around that range and the big timing pull went away. Drives great now and I have had no issues with around 500 miles. I never see more than 1.5 V from the knock sensors on the logs and only at that one spot so I do believe it to be false.
Not if you can safely determine it is a false knock area, and only set it low enough to not pull timing in that area. That's my understanding anyway.Wait so you lowered the sensitivity of the knock sensors??? Yeah NO thats a bad bandaid.
No. You need to correct the false knock. Those knock sensors are not for show. You need those working correctly to pick up the real knock that you might not see in crap DA, but you get a negative DA day at the track and might bend a rod when you otherwise didnt know you were on the edge.Not if you can determine it is a false knock area, and only set it low enough to not pull timing. That's my understanding anyway.
Im glad you got that squared away! Are you planning on running a similar tune for your TRX?I ultimately found help from one of our very helpful forum members 16gomango that solved the issue. My tuner was not really willing to offer much in the realm of trouble shooting. After ruling out mechanical issues I had to tweak the knock sensor values around that range and the big timing pull went away. Drives great now and I have had no issues with around 500 miles. I never see more than 1.5 V from the knock sensors on the logs and only at that one spot so I do believe it to be false.
You also grenaded your stock motor, so no I dont think I will be taking tuning advice from you.Or you simply swapped pulleys like OP and now the factory tuning of the knock sensors no longer matches the base harmonics of the supercharger. Adjusting the knock thresholds to account for this is a well accepted and safe practice. Go back and read this very thread. I posted logs from my personal car that I personally tune.
You spout off in a lot of threads like a know it all. You need to do more research before posting. Just makes you look like like a dumb ass.You also grenaded your stock motor, so no I dont think I will be taking tuning advice from you.
That was from spinning it too high of rpm wasn't it, before we knew the powder forged rod weaknesses? Not necessarily tune related?You also grenaded your stock motor, so no I dont think I will be taking tuning advice from you.
Yeah and you still grenaded your stock motor "speedy". So yeah take my dumbass spout off advice to not lower the knock sensors, or take your "I blew up my own motor" advice and lower the knock sensors... Yeah Im the dumbass...LOLOLYou spout off in a lot of threads like a know it all. You need to do more research before posting. Just makes you look like like a dumb ass.
Ahahah WAT?? You cant overspin a motor without a tune. And if speedy is tuning his own car, I'd expect it was tune related...LOLThat was from spinning it too high of rpm wasn't it, before we knew the powder forged rod weaknesses? Not necessarily tune related?
Who knows really. I actually had dealerships reach out to me that had bone stock cars break the cyl 7 rod and several other owners as well with the same cyl 7 failure. Seems it is (or was) a weak point for some reason. Car was at 800rwhp at the time.That was from spinning it too high of rpm wasn't it, before we knew the powder forged rod weaknesses? Not necessarily tune related?
Yeah, I thought I remembered reading a while back that it was suspected a weak rod. It's my understanding that those powder forged rods don't like to go much faster than 6700 rpm and the downstroke at those speeds seems to find their weakness.Who knows really. I actually had dealerships reach out to me that had bone stock cars break the cyl 7 rod and several other owners as well with the same cyl 7 failure. Seems it is (or was) a weak point for some reason. Car was at 800rwhp at the time.
Well, mine's a 2016 and the tunes were pretty hot from the factory for the first couple of model years. I have logs from my car bone stock on 93 octane getting consistent 4° of STKR at WOT. I was shocked to see that but like everyone else at the time thought "well must be fine or they wouldn't have tuned it like this". Some would say must be false knock but I'd put in 109 octane race fuel and it would go away. Definitely wasn't false. That could have weakened something for sure.Yeah, I thought I remembered reading a while back that it was suspected a weak rod. It's my understanding that those powder forged rods don't like to go much fast than 6700 rpm and the downstroke at those speeds seems to find their weakness.