My father has a '21 Hellcat NB and I bought him a set of Forgestar D5 17X10 wheels and M/T ET Street R's for the back. Friday night we took his cat to Cecil County Dragway for some grudge racing and since he hasn't raced in almost 40 years he decided to use the black key for his first few runs. On his first run he noticed some vibration coming from the rear about 3/4 of the way down the track all the way until he slowed the car way down. He did 4 more runs and ever run the vibration seemed to get worse to the point where he decided to call it quits for the night. On the 30 minute ride home we could feel a vibration coming from the back the whole time we were over 55mph. Our first thought was maybe a weight came off and a tire was unbalanced so when we got home we took the wheels off and all of the weights were still on. Next we put the factory wheels back on and took it for a drive to see if maybe something was wrong with the driveshaft or rear drivetrain, but the car drove nice and smooth. So now we are thinking that maybe the tire spun on the wheel and that is why he got a vibration because the wheels are out of balance. I wouldn't think the tire would slip on the wheel in 500hp mode, but we are going to take it back to the tire place on Monday and have them check to se if they are unbalanced. The Forgestar wheels have the Bead Knurling to keep the tires from slipping on the wheels so I don't know how they could have slipped. I wasn't there when the tire place mounted and balanced the wheels and tires, but maybe they put some of the lube on to help mount the tire. When we take the wheels and tires back could they clean off the lube and mount the tires dry to keep the tires from spinning? Is there any other way to keep the tires form slipping on the wheels because I really don't feel like buying him another set of wheels?
Possible tire slippage causing a bad vibration after doing a burnout
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Also make sure the drive shaft is still happy.
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At 430 whp there is zero chance the tires were slipping with beadlocks. 800-900 hp u MAYBE need beadlocks not 500 hp. 1300+ ull need double beads.
They wouldnt slip with stock wheels and DR's at that power level. Unless u had too little tire pressure that could cause them to slip but thats unlikely but possible and the tire can de-bead. U should always mark ur tire against the beadlock so u know if thats the case.
Could be ur driveshaft or wheel bearings (Highly unlikely on bearings being so new) or u simply messed up the Differential which is common but uncommon at those power levels but at the track its surely possible especially if u had really good sticking tires.
What happens when u let go of the wheel? Does it drive stright?
They wouldnt slip with stock wheels and DR's at that power level. Unless u had too little tire pressure that could cause them to slip but thats unlikely but possible and the tire can de-bead. U should always mark ur tire against the beadlock so u know if thats the case.
Could be ur driveshaft or wheel bearings (Highly unlikely on bearings being so new) or u simply messed up the Differential which is common but uncommon at those power levels but at the track its surely possible especially if u had really good sticking tires.
What happens when u let go of the wheel? Does it drive stright?
There is nothing wrong with the driveline because after we got home and put the factory wheels and tires on we took it for a drive on the highway and had now vibration at 85mph. It has to be the tires some how got unbalanced or slipped on the wheels. We had no vibration on the 30 minute drive to the track. When we got to the track he lowered the tires to 29 psi and during the first run is when the vibration started and got worse with each run. We also had the vibration the whole ride home when ever we were above 55mph and it would go away when we slowed down.
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Well then someone didnt TQ the beadlock bolts properly and they came lose and ur tire is now out of balance from slipping.
They are not the Forgestar D5 Beadlocks they are the Non Beadlocks. At the time when I bought the wheels Forgestar only made the beadlocks for the WB and non beadlocks for the NB. I would like to get these non beadlocks to work because I don't feel like buying another set.
If you shook just the one time then it is flat spots from sitting. That can happen in 20 minutes with warm ET Street R's. But 99% of the time it's not an issue UNLESS they happen to be "in sync" when you run. If it shook every time and got worse then the tires spun on the rim. If they were mounted resently then the lube is still wet and they will spin real easy.
I let mine spin and deal with it myself. I have a method.
The tires were mounted months ago and have just been sitting off to the side not mounted to the car. We mounted them 3 hours before leaving for the track andnlet me correct myself it was a shake at the track and a vibration while driving home. At the track when he hit the 3/4 mark all the way until he slowed way down the rear end would shake. On the way home while driving on 95 at 65mph we could feel a slight movement coming from the rear. It has to be the tires because the after putting the factory tires back on and going for an 85mph drive on 95 there was no shaking.
It could be that the wheels have a defect.
I'm thinking this also. If it isn't weights and they didn't slip and it's nothing else in the driveline, you're looking at some sort of mechanical failure in the suspension or a defect in the tire or wheel. There's not much else it can be.
If the issue doesn't present itself on the street tires/wheels, then it isn't the suspension either. So again, we're back at a problem with the DR tires or wheels. Do the tires rub anywhere on the inside? Could be that?
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Can you get the wheels checked for balance without the tires on them?
We got the wheels and tires back from the shop and they said both tires had spun on the wheels and that is why we had the bad shaking. They said when they broke the tires down there was still some mounting lube on the wheels/tires and that is what caused the tires to slip. So they broke them down wiped off all of the lube and reinstalled the tires dry with some bead sealant on both sides. Hopefully the next time we go to the track the tires wont spin, but if they do we will be upgrading to some beadlocks.
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Make sure to mark your tire and wheel to make it possible to see any relative rotation.
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