[Trizzle]

Howdy folks, installing some new rear axles and having a bit of trouble getting the knucle on the bottom control arm. Is there a trick or is it just brute force?

 

[Trizzle]

 

[GreenMachine15]

Wish I could help, but I never took that apart when I did my axles. I also had the hub out for longer studs, so maybe that is why I had extra room.
If I remember correctly, I took the allen head bolt out on one side, but it was stuck together and not moving, so I just put it back in.

 

[Trizzle]

Wish I could help, but I never took that apart when I did my axles. I also had the hub out for longer studs, so maybe that is why I had extra room.
If I remember correctly, I took the allen head bolt out on one side, but it was stuck together and not moving, so I just put it back in.

Figured out there is a bushing that need to be tapped back in to get it back together.

 

[WizzaVTX]

I tried everything I could as a single person to get this done and was unsuccessful.

Having a second set of hands was the main item that helped me get it done.

Tapping the bushing did NOT help, grinding gave me a small amount of margin for space.

Holding the hub just right onto the lower arm was the key and could not be done one person in my experience.

Had a buddy helping me when I swapped DSS axles and it was so much easier with him holding the axle and me orienting the hub onto the splines and then feeding onto the bushing as shown above.

 

[DGatzby]

I am not sure if it is the same joint. But if that is the joint where the tension arm ties into the bottom of the wheel assembly, the way I align it is to place something under the wheel assembly to RAISE it (small jack), then at a magical place the bolt aligns and can be put in to tie it all together. Without removing that joint, I cannot change out the rear brake rotors.

 

[Unholy707]

I am not sure if it is the same joint. But if that is the joint where the tension arm ties into the bottom of the wheel assembly, the way I align it is to place something under the wheel assembly to RAISE it (small jack), then at a magical place the bolt aligns and can be put in to tie it all together. Without removing that joint, I cannot change out the rear brake rotors.

? I just took off my rear caliper and rotors and all I had to remove were 2 caliper bracket bolts didn’t touch knuckle suspension

 

[SickToo]

*

 

[Jonx96]

Take a bolt with a nut on each side to press it in. Do not grind it

 

[Jonx96]

Finding a bolt long enough with the threads to the head is the hardest part

 

[DGatzby]

? I just took off my rear caliper and rotors and all I had to remove were 2 caliper bracket bolts didn’t touch knuckle suspension

Kool. I am in for a lesson. Or you are a bullshitter. You show me how you put a socket on that lower rear caliper bolt please.

 

[SickToo]

*oh nvrm, I’m blind. Mine has stock arms

Those fit like garbage… I would clearance that

 

[DGatzby]

*oh nvrm, I’m blind. Mine has stock arms

Those fit like garbage… I would clearance that

That’s what I thought after I posted that. If I remember those are thin rods. Sorry.
I am not even sure if that is the bolt the OP was talking about. It is a bit of a PIA. I have just been not exchanging the rear rotors between the street and race pads. They seem to bed and work fine when they need to. Ha, for the next three weeks it is just going to wear the racing stuff. I am running around with the black wheels. That hurts.

What fits like garbage?

 

[OldMoparGuy]

That was the biggest pita when I swapped my axles out for Demon parts. I found it’s much easier with two sets of hands. It slides back together but the bushing keeps moving around making it almost impossible going solo.

 

[Unholy707]

With stock arms. Just ran back in garage and even put bolt back on to prove you wrong. Don’t know about with AAD arms, but no one said anything about that. I’m doing longer studs right now

 

[Unholy707]

It does get close but with the right tools for the job (special low profile sockets) they come right out.

 

[Unholy707]

Best socket set I ever bought. Can’t find them anywhere anymore. You’re welcome.

 

[Unholy707]

Kool. I am in for a lesson. Or you are a bullshitter. You show me how you put a socket on that lower rear caliper bolt please.

View attachment 603889

And take pic from a different angle, if you even did take this pic and this is your car. Probably can get it if you had the right tools. Also, as much as they claim AAD suspension products are great, seems like bad engineering to me if you have to take half your rear suspension apart to change brake pads

 

[16GoManGoHC]

Take a bolt with a nut on each side to press it in. Do not grind it

Yep, this is the only way to do it. I used to hammer the bushing back with a brass drift, M14x85 long, 2 nuts and 2 washers, 2 wrenches, and 2 minutes and the bushing is flush and the knuckle drops right on the arm and slide the big hex key bolt in and done. This was the PITA park of the job until @Jonx96 suggested the bolt and nut trick. Only way to do it.

 

[Unholy707]

Yep, this is the only way to do it. I used to hammer the bushing back with a brass drift, M14x85 long, 2 nuts and 2 washers, 2 wrenches, and 2 minutes and the bushing is flush and the knuckle drops right on the arm and slide the big hex key bolt in and done. This was the PITA park of the job until @Jonx96 suggested the bolt and nut trick. Only way to do it.

View attachment 603901 View attachment 603902 View attachment 603903 View attachment 603904

That’s an awesome trick, I’ll have to remember it if I ever pull everything apart. Mopar had a special threaded tool to remove and install the bushing btw,