I run BMR suspension parts and am very happy. BMR upper and lower trailing arms, Camber arms, and tie rods with bearings at the knuckle and greaseable Dellum bushings on the frame end. My subframe has the red urethane bushings as does my differential. Nothing on the back of the car moves in any direction other than where it is supposed to. It's all or nothing with the arms. The tie rods are as important as Camber and trailing arms so don't cheap out when doing this.
Lest start with the Lockout kit you want. DONT! I did that and it does nothing. Just do it the right way. Take that subframe out and put the bushings in. I did mine in my garage with floor jacks. I ended up doing this all twice because I tried that lockout deal and it does not work. Everything was still moving around. So I took it back apart and did the bushings. I used the red urethane bushings BMR sells for the subframe and diff. It all stays put now.
For anyone who thinks tightening up the rear subframe is going to wreck the ride or make noise, take a look under the front of your Challengers...Go on...Did you notice? Yep, NO bushings on that front subframe at all. It's metal to metal. This is where all the rotating parts are, engine, trans, converter, pulley systems, front suspension, steering linkage, and its metal to metal bolted solid to the unibody frame rails!? Ya, makes no sense at all. But I'm glad its solid. Now the rear half of my car better matches the front half of the car.
Next after building both race cars and street cars since 1974 I can tell you that any solid bushing that is not greaseable is high maintenance, and they can make noise as there is NO cushion there at all. I personally don't care about a bit of noise and run the bearings, but many people do care about the little bit of possible noise. By noise I mean noise transfer into the car. Not noise from the bearing itself.
You have road dirt, possible moisture, and the worst of all brake dirt getting on those bearings that can damage and wear them. Usually, they will seize up if they are not cared for. You won't know about it until its squeaking creaking and then eventually something will break. Cleaning and lubricating them often is a must. When there's a bearing on each end of an arm you should be able to rotate the entire arm back and forth a few degrees and easily work in some oil. Like a typical Drag race 4 link rod. But, as far as I know we can only buy these arms with bearings on one end for our cars. I may be wrong on that now though. Mine have the bearings (Heim joints) on the knuckle end and greaseable Dellum bushings in board at the sub frame and body area. I cannot rotate that style of arm to work in lube on the bearing end.
The Maintenace for me is as follows. I pull the tires, clean the Heim joints real good with brake clean, then once they are clean, I cover the rotor and soak them with a product designed to lubricate Heim joints. Any good spray lube or real thin oil will work. Takes about 20 minutes. Then I go drive it around trying to help that lube work itself into the bearings. I do it at every oil change which is 2000 to 2500 miles for me. So far no problems after over 25,000 miles on the street and alot of both road and drag racing. But I do not drive in the rain on purpose, and never winter. If this sounds like a bunch of work to you to maintain the bearings, then go with Dellum greaseable on both ends. Note there is special grease for those bushings. Some oils and grease will melt them!
End result for my Redeye was absolutely NO wheel hop ever on the street or track with street tires or drag radials.
My question to you is why the heck would you do all this work, not want to correct the major alignment issues these cars have? Almost all aftermarket arms come with adjustable options to fix the excessive negative camber issues. I think most people here will agree if you're going to do this, do it right and also fix the alignment issues when stiffening everything up in the rear.