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Rebuild the TR6060, start to finish, with guide and pics

6648 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  PurplePoweredNeon


Side note: replacing brake pads is easy! From this forum, two pins, one spring and one bolt, don't even have to remove the calipers!!!

Disclaimer: The following procedures should be performed at your own risk. I am not a certified TR6060 mechanic and only relied on common sense and a detail-oriented brain to perform this rebuild.

After 210 dragstrip passes and roughly 20k hard street miles, I finally had a catastrophic failure in my car as the 27 spline output shaft in my TR6060 let go, leaving me dead in the water and needing a tow. Up until this point I had done 100% of the wrenching on my car and frowned at the idea of having to rely on someone else to rebuild the transmission. After much deliberation, I chose to take on the project myself and ordered upgraded parts and a new 30 spline output shaft. I also ordered a set of carbon blocker rings and bronze shift fork pads to go along with my beefier mainshaft. The car only had 35k miles before the break and has 0 issues with the transmission. It shifted smoothly and perfectly so I did not expect to find any broken or otherwise damaged parts.

Tools: In addition to a regular mechanics toolset, you will need the following specialty tools:
  • Hydraulic press-I bought one from a local tool supply company
  • Snap-ring plier set-there are a few different snap ring sizes and styles that hold everything together so having a full set is a must
  • Bearing splitter(puller)-Also purchased at a local tool supply company
  • Punch set-the shift arm, shift fork, and some other misc pieces are held on with roll pins so you'll need a good punch set to hammer them out
  • T-40 torx
  • Gear puller with extended arms, depending on what is left of your output shaft
  • Portable band saw-came in very handy to trim down the broken output shaft and make a flat surface for the puller to pull against
  • Transmission jack
  • 5'(or larger) table to lay everything out and keep it organized
  • Rubber mallet
  • Feeler gauges

This guide assumes you have the knowledge and capability to put the car on jackstands, remove the rear cradle, the diff, and subsequently remove the transmission. SlickShoes has a great how-to thread located here which will guide you if you're unsure.



Take note of the orientation and location of each piece you remove. Many of the parts are installed one way and cannot be reversed so you'll want to make sure you remove and set them aside in the exact order and orientation in which they came out.

Here is your starting point. The transmission is out of the car and ready to be torn down.

1) Start by removing the shift rod. This is done by rolling the rubber insulation forward and taping the roll pin out with a punch.
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2) Remove the tailshaft housing. It will likely be glued to the main housing with silicone/gasket so a little tap with the rubber mallet should set it free. Once it is broken free, gently slide it off making sure not to scuff or scratch the bearings.

Here is the inside of the tailshaft housing. You can see the output shaft seal, reverse idler, and countershaft bearing.
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3) With the tailshaft housing removed, you'll have access to 5th, 6th, and reverse gears and also the accompanying shift forks. In this picture, you can see what's left of the output shaft after a quick cut with the band saw.
Light Wood Gas Motor vehicle Machine

4) Remove the snapring and begin sliding the gears, spacers, and misc pieces off the shaft one by one. Most of the parts slide off but you will need to use the gear puller to remove the pressed on 5th, 6th, and reverse gears. The shift fork is held in place with a retainer/stop that is attached to the shift rail with a roll pin.

In this picture, you can see the output shaft bearing, gears, blocker assembly, 5/6 shift fork, and 5th gear.
Below that, you see reverse gear and another blocker/gear combination. Reverse gear is pressed on and will need to be removed with the puller.
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5) Continue removing the Reverse shift fork and gears on the countershaft and set them aside in the correct order. Once you've removed all the pieces from the rear, you should be left with 2 bare shafts and nothing attached to them.

6) Remove the reverse lock-out solenoid from the top of the transmission. Be careful not to lose the spring and roller guide assembly as it will fall out once you take it off. It is held on with 2 torx and 2 13mm bolts.
With the solenoid and cover removed, you can see the shift pattern and gear selector attached to the main shift rail.
Remove the detent from the outside of the case.
Use a punch to tap the roll pin down and out of the shift rail being careful not to lose it.
In this picture, you can see the location where the roller guide is positioned on the shift rail.
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This is great! Thank you! I’ll be digging into mine this winter.
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