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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello All, I have some questions about remote tuning and your experience. I'm leaning towards dusterhauff for tuning, possibly a flex fuel tune. I was under the impression I needed a dyo for tuning. Long story short where I live people want crazy money for a dyno rental. It wouldn't make sense at that point. After speaking with Frank (really nice guy) he said a dyno wasn't necessary and that most of their customers street/track tune. I've never tuned a car this way or have known anyone to do so. In general, anyone that has street/track tuned how did it go? Any issues, would you do it again? Could be with any tuner but specifically Dusterhauff. I've heard nothing but great things but just want to hear a first hand experience street tuning vs dyno.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Hello All, I have some questions about remote tuning and your experience. I'm leaning towards dusterhauff for tuning, possibly a flex fuel tune. I was under the impression I needed a dyo for tuning. Long story short where I live people want crazy money for a dyno rental. It wouldn't make sense at that point. After speaking with Frank (really nice guy) he said a dyno wasn't necessary and that most of their customers street tune. I've never tuned a car this way or have known anyone to do so. In general, anyone that has street tuned how did it go? Any issues, would you do it again? Could be with any tuner but specifically Dusterhauff. I've heard nothing but great things but just want to hear a first hand experience street tuning vs dyno.

Thanks in advance.
I’ve had great success with Curt. He’s remotely tuned my car in 3 different stages of modifications. Very easy process and Curt is great to work with. Though I don’t recommend doing this on the street, it’s definitely possible. Empty backroads that you are familiar with and relatively straight will be your best bet.
Test & tune on a track is definitely best, but I’m sure there are plenty that have done this on the street.
I shipped my ZR1 off to be modded/tuned and the first thing I did when I got it back was rip it down the interstate to test it out (no traffic of course)
If I had to compare the difference, I’d say you just have to be diligent when logging and be sure to cover every aspect of driving to make sure you dial the car in.
 

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I've done it in the past, but it isn't as precise, nor timely. Keep in mind that conditions (temp, weather, underhood temps) all affect how the tune works. So, let's say you street tune and run a pull in 70F temps, with your IAT at 136. 2 days later, they email a tune for you. You upload it and do another street tune. This time, it's 79F with an IAT of 161. You send that off, wait a couple days, repeat. This can sometimes cause fuel tuning issues.

It's expensive, but I prefer custom dyno tuning. That way, the tuner can tune in real time with relatively consistent environmental metrics. This is especially helpful when doing diagnostic work. Diagnosing a poorly performing tune over email can be a bit of a PITA. Most of the mail order tunes you get are typically hyper conservative, one-size-fits all types that will offer some performance, but designed to work in a broad range of conditions and fuel concentrations (E85).Thus, the street tune thing works fine, as they're only really using it to verify that the tune is working within acceptable parameters (they almost always do). In many cases, as it goes with ProCharger's tunes... they're so conservative that you don't even have to street tune. You just load it up and the car works, albeit not as well as it could be with a proper tune.

Too long of a story short, I recommend a dyno tune. If anything, you'll learn some neat stuff about your car, as most good tuners will often explain what they're doing and what they're changing so you have some knowledge as to what the car is doing and why.
 

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I'd do it on a track most likely.
You’ll be good then. I run an interchiller (IAT’s aren’t an issue) and on e85 with roughy 1000whp. You don’t need a dyno to fine tune a car. Not all shops have the best tuners, especially for these cars. If you do a lot of seat time and data logging on a track, Curt will get you dialed in for sure.
 

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I've done it in the past, but it isn't as precise, nor timely. Keep in mind that conditions (temp, weather, underhood temps) all affect how the tune works. So, let's say you street tune and run a pull in 70F temps, with your IAT at 136. 2 days later, they email a tune for you. You upload it and do another street tune. This time, it's 79F with an IAT of 161. You send that off, wait a couple days, repeat. This can sometimes cause fuel tuning issues.

It's expensive, but I prefer custom dyno tuning. That way, the tuner can tune in real time with relatively consistent environmental metrics. This is especially helpful when doing diagnostic work. Diagnosing a poorly performing tune over email can be a bit of a PITA. Most of the mail order tunes you get are typically hyper conservative, one-size-fits all types that will offer some performance, but designed to work in a broad range of conditions and fuel concentrations (E85).Thus, the street tune thing works fine, as they're only really using it to verify that the tune is working within acceptable parameters (they almost always do). In many cases, as it goes with ProCharger's tunes... they're so conservative that you don't even have to street tune. You just load it up and the car works, albeit not as well as it could be with a proper tune.

Too long of a story short, I recommend a dyno tune. If anything, you'll learn some neat stuff about your car, as most good tuners will often explain what they're doing and what they're changing so you have some knowledge as to what the car is doing and why.
I agree, dyno tuning is great and does have its benefits, but it definitely isn’t needed. If you have a good relationship with your tuner and let them know you’re going to the track on certain days for data logging and fine tuning, they won’t have an issue making you a priority.
There probably isn’t a better real world tuning option than at a track. These cars are pretty well figured out for what mods are out there for them. If you have an interchiller like I do, IAT’s aren’t a concern.
Either way the more seat time you put in the car and communicate with your tuner, the better the car is going to run. It’s more hands-on, but for me, it works. For others it may not. I just don’t think a dyno is necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You’ll be good then. I run an interchiller (IAT’s aren’t an issue) and on e85 with roughy 1000whp. You don’t need a dyno to fine tune a car. Not all shops have the best tuners, especially for these cars. If you do a lot of seat time and data logging on a track, Curt will get you dialed in for sure.
Did you install the interchiller on your own? If so was the install hard?
 

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Did you install the interchiller on your own? If so was the install hard?
Yeah, I did the install myself, but it definitely isn’t the easiest process. I have other vehicles to drive so I did it a little bit at a time. I did it while installing other parts so most the front end needed to come off anyways and I had the blower off too. Had a local shop discharge and recharge the system. Instructions aren’t the best, so if you don’t like turning wrenches or don’t have much experience, I’d just pay a shop to do. I spend a lot of time on computers for a living, so this is one of my many outlets, not to mention my kids like to “help” lol
 

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For my hellcat, I have had two remote tunes, one from hemifever tuning and one from HHP (I've also had two tunes for my mustang, one a canned tune and the other a remote one where the tuner has revised it a few times, and a dyno tune for our STI and a canned tune, too). Like someone mentioned, the combos on the hellcats are nailed down pretty good. Everyone who uses Dusterhoff has nothing but rave reviews. If it were me, I'd use HHP or Dusterhoff or someone with lots of experience with these cars. Dusterhoff uses HP Tuners, I think, and HHP uses Diablosport. I wasn't going to ever get into tuning the car myself, so I went with HHP. The first tune, with hemifever I told him what I had (I had no mods yet, so it was just a 93 octane PCM/TCM tune) and he sent me the tune, I drove around and logged it and sent it back to him just so he could verify everything was okay and that was it. It was pretty economical, a few hundred dollars if I recall correctly. The HHP tune they will give you two tunes ( the second one for race gas) and make some revisions to dial it in further, too, but it's twice as much money. Don't know what Dusterhoffs rates are.

Also, you will want to be on a track to log. These cars are crazy fast, and you're in for a wild ride on the street, and you don't want your traction control on when you log. Stomping on it with street tires and no traction control, man, that's something I wasn't going to do. I like my insurance rates where they currently are and prefer to keep the shiny side up, as they say.
 
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I've done a lot of "street" tuning with mustangs and only one dyno tune. I preferred the street tuning. The reason I preferred the street tune was getting the transmission tune dialed in. Having the shift points and firmness refined for your driving style is great for the street manners.
 

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I've done a lot of "street" tuning with mustangs and only one dyno tune. I preferred the street tuning. The reason I preferred the street tune was getting the transmission tune dialed in. Having the shift points and firmness refined for your driving style is great for the street manners.
I really enjoy tuning the drivability. When I tuned my fast efi in my foxbody I was able to get the drivability as good or better on my 1000hp 347 as the stock tune on the 5.0. Crazy fun. Same thing with my hellcat, Dusterhoff tune on e85 was spot on and with some little tweaking I had the short and long term trims less than 5%. Every car I've tuned on dyno needed more fuel when tuned on the street afterwards.
 
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