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Showing the alignment that had to be done for the front control arms.
What are they doing there?
Don't you do alignments with the car sitting on four plates that can freely move in all directions, so the tires take their natural stance without having to "roll?"
 

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How about 305's front like you say, and 315's on the rear with 11's? They may poke, but it could be real functional.
Considering that 11 inch wheels with 315's (if Nitto) can fit inside the rear envelope of a narrow-body car, surely you can get some wheels made that will allow substantially wider tires on the rear to fit on a wide body.
 

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What are they doing there?
Don't you do alignments with the car sitting on four plates that can freely move in all directions, so the tires take their natural stance without having to "roll?"
This is how they do it... I honestly would not know how it should be done but I trust the mechanic who works on my car. He is in pretty high demand for older muscle cars and the new stuff like ours. The only thing he doesn't do is tune PCM or TCM. He works with other vendors (tuners) to do that.
 

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want to ask this question.... is it possible to run 295s on the stock wheels? and will there be more tire sticking out? I'm thinking of just running 285s on the stock wheels cause I know from reading through the forums that 285s work... but would be curious on everyones thoughts are about doing 295s on stock wheels.
 

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want to ask this question.... is it possible to run 295s on the stock wheels? and will there be more tire sticking out? I'm thinking of just running 285s on the stock wheels cause I know from reading through the forums that 285s work... but would be curious on everyones thoughts are about doing 295s on stock wheels.
Nobody has a problem mounting 305/35’s drag radials with crap sidewalls on stock wheels. Those smaller “real” tires should work fine.
 

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so guys finally got all those suspension parts installed minus the front bushings. SuperPro said they wouldn't fit but BMRs site said they would. So I exchanged them for a rear sway bar from BMR. Showing the alignment that had to be done for the front control arms.

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It is good you did that right there! I see some of those front numbers from the camber change. I let the rear go and only changed the camber without a good check on the toe. Nearly disaster! I could not notice on some skinny tires, but the sticky big rollers exhibited a little death wobble at RA, but the worst death wobble ever kicked in last Monday at BIR. Could not get the car to within five seconds of the lap times it ran last year stock! When we put it on a rack last week I was horrified. Much better yesterday after some fundamental changes.

Question @sinister707 are you going to leave the front in that much negative camber on the street? I am becoming indifferent to the rear on the course. Seems like the upgraded suspension hold the rears in back so well static, edge and shoulder wear don’t happen, even at recommended OEM settings.
 

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It is good you did that right there! I see some of those front numbers from the camber change. I let the rear go and only changed the camber without a good check on the toe. Nearly disaster! I could not notice on some skinny tires, but the sticky big rollers exhibited a little death wobble at RA, but the worst death wobble ever kicked in last Monday at BIR. Could not get the car to within five seconds of the lap times it ran last year stock! When we put it on a rack last week I was horrified. Much better yesterday after some fundamental changes.

Question @sinister707 are you going to leave the front in that much negative camber on the street? I am becoming indifferent to the rear on the course. Seems like the upgraded suspension hold the rears in back so well static, edge and shoulder wear don’t happen, even at recommended OEM settings.
My mechanic tried to explain it to me about the camber... a bit over my head. I trust his judgement but he usually just asks me what I want and I tell him I would like to be able to run on the street without feeling like total race car but want it to perform well on a road course. I also tell him a little extra stiffness or different feel won't bother me so the long answer + my short answer = yes.

I still want to do this:

but the right way so that I can run 305s square.

I thought about the Lil Devil fender flares [still want them because I like the look] just want to save money and keep the car "stock" look.
 

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My mechanic tried to explain it to me about the camber... a bit over my head. I trust his judgement but he usually just asks me what I want and I tell him I would like to be able to run on the street without feeling like total race car but want it to perform well on a road course. I also tell him a little extra stiffness or different feel won't bother me so the long answer + my short answer = yes.

I still want to do this:

but the right way so that I can run 305s square.

I thought about the Lil Devil fender flares [still want them because I like the look] just want to save money and keep the car "stock" look.
Good luck. It does like 305/35 square tires on 11’s, it feels good with that combo. Basically that is what I run with the OEM Widebody wheels and tires.
 

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Goodluck at Thunder Hill and Laguna Seca with that front setup. Lots of off camber elevation changes. And they are high speed tracks. You might want to run 285s up front and get that front adjustable A arm because each track is different. Also..keep an eye out on the half shaft boots. You have the old style and they tend to tear when the rear is lowered and not in track mode. Keep us posted on your track day.
 

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Discussion Starter #371
My mechanic tried to explain it to me about the camber... a bit over my head. I trust his judgement but he usually just asks me what I want and I tell him I would like to be able to run on the street without feeling like total race car but want it to perform well on a road course. I also tell him a little extra stiffness or different feel won't bother me so the long answer + my short answer = yes.

I still want to do this:

but the right way so that I can run 305s square.

I thought about the Lil Devil fender flares [still want them because I like the look] just want to save money and keep the car "stock" look.
I run 305/35 on all 4s with 10.5/11in f/r wheels on my 16 Challenger. It fits. An 11in front wheel would poke out a fair bit.
I ran 295/35 Pirelli Corsa r compound tires on 10in wheels square for a couple of years as well. It worked well but you can fit bigger.
 

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Thank you guys for the help. I may just stick to the 285s on stock wheels for now. I am aware of the boot so if there are any suggestions on upgrades there will take those as well. I remember DGatzby has an issue with his boots on the RE (if I'm remembering that correctly).
 

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Thank you guys for the help. I may just stick to the 285s on stock wheels for now. I am aware of the boot so if there are any suggestions on upgrades there will take those as well. I remember DGatzby has an issue with his boots on the RE (if I'm remembering that correctly).
Not on the RE, I am all good in that department. Plus, with @TrackDay getting the Demon/Redeye axles on his ‘16, he has proven now those hold up at BIR despite his Mopar springs in play. So the new style axles seem to hold up fine.
 

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What year is your SP? Do you have 4 or 6 pot/piston calipers up front? Also...avoid spacers at the track. Some tires in 295 will fit on the stock wheel. But you don't want to tax the sidewalls. Track tires vary because most people use them on the street. Our cars are heavy.
 

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What year is your SP? Do you have 4 or 6 pot/piston calipers up front? Also...avoid spacers at the track. Some tires in 295 will fit on the stock wheel. But you don't want to tax the sidewalls. Track tires vary because most people use them on the street. Our cars are heavy.

I have a 2015 HC Challenger. I have 6 pistons up front.
 

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Discussion Starter #377
Thanks for this info... @TrackDay can you share the part number?
I don't have the part number off hand. There are separate numbers for the driver and passenger units. They should not be on restriction like some Demon and WB parts are.
 

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According to Mopar this part number fits all right/left side 2019 Hellcats, Widebodies, and Redeyes and 2015 and up SPs.
Just double check with Steve White Motors.
Mopar Replacement 53010749AA.
Mopar Replacement 53010748AA


or even Summit.


I know they are the same across the board for 2019s. I been under many NBs and WBs including REs doing diff oil changes and diff braces and seen the same PN on all of them.
 
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