[Ross61]

With the pending delivery of my 2022 Charger Hellcat, the first two of three things planned is to install a Valentine 1 radar detector and a dash cam with front the rear cameras. So I do not fry any existing wires (electrical engineering was my first undergrad degree), I tend to lean heavily toward routing of dedicated/new power for both switched and un-switched power.

Does anyone, who have already gone this route, have any recommendations and/or suggestions where to tap in on the fuse box (I honestly do not know where in the cabin it might be located) and the route to tuck the wire(s) for the windshield and rear window (without impacting any side air bags)?

Any good locations online with pictures and procedures for dismantling the interior's plastic without snapping anything off?

Oh and the third mod: Street Scene Speed Mesh grill - especially for the lower - even if it's a custom one-off job (depending on the price that is).

TIA

Ross

 

[borden72]

You may have to look a little further, but I believe they make a connector tap the goes in the mirror pod that provides a power tap without having to run wires and tap into other wires. I don't have this info but I remember seeing it in a post somewhere.

 

[Ross61]

The idea might work if only one powered item was attached, not three. This is where my EE side kicks in.

 

[Spartacus]

The idea might work if only one powered item was attached, not three. This is where my EE side kicks in.

Those items are very low power draw though.

I have a dash cam wired into my overhead map lights (Taurus SHO, not my HC).

I wired on the Battery Saver side so the cam comes on when opening a door and
goes off about 8 minutes after car shutdown. The Battery Saver relay is for when you
forget to turn off one of the map lights. I'm sure you can do a similar setup.

Or as posted above, see if there is a mirror tap adapter made for your application.

 

[akras]

I did it (radar detector and front camera only). Mirror tap, buck converter to get 5V for the camera. The camera has built-in battery which keeps it running a short time after the car is shut down, or if someone bumps into the car. I would not expect any issues running radar plus 2 cameras from the mirror tap.

3D printed radar detector mount

I didn't like the available universal mirror radar detector mounts, so I printed a custom one. Very sturdy, fits perfectly well, and costs next to nothing to print... This is for my Uniden R3; I'm reusing the stock metal mounting bracket that came with the detector.

www.hellcat.org

 

[2ndAmend]

I didn’t use the mirror power, can’t remember the reason. With all the smart circuits I was afraid to tap into power, so I just plugged into the cigar lighter type power port and routed the wires under the trim. No warranty issues if something fries.

 

[Ross61]

I didn’t use the mirror power, can’t remember the reason. With all the smart circuits I was afraid to tap into power, so I just plugged into the cigar lighter type power port and routed the wires under the trim. No warranty issues if something fries.

View attachment 587657

That might work

also looked at the owner manual. Looks like the mirror’s circuit includes power to the sunroof, which I’m not getting, and a po-po option, again - not getting.

anybody know where to find/buy a copy of the vehicle’s schematics. Hard copy is preferred.

 

[Spartacus]

>anybody know where to find/buy a copy of the vehicle’s schematics. Hard copy is preferred.

Auto service shops usually have subscriptions to access vehicle schematics.

It's so common to want to wire things into the mirror power, that if you Google around
you may find the one you are looking for posted in a forum someplace.

Failing that, you can back probe the connector with a DVM and find the 12v/ground.

 

[borden72]

You could also use a fuse tap and run the cable from the rear fuse box. They make them so you can keep the fuse for the original circuit and has another fuse to protect the circuit for the device you are running it to.

Amazon.com: Electop 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder 3 Pack : Automotive

 

[Catless]

I just tucked the wires in the headliner, down the windshield post and under the trim on the floor all the way to the rear fusebox. Used fusetaps for both the constant and ignition power so everything is safely protected from any short circuits. Since all the trim pieces are just flimsy snap in plastic it only took a few minutes. I didn't even have to remove any or the trim. This was on a Challenger but I doubt the Charger build is any different.

 

[Ross61]

You could also use a fuse tap and run the cable from the rear fuse box. They make them so you can keep the fuse for the original circuit and has another fuse to protect the circuit for the device you are running it to.

Amazon.com: Electop 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder 3 Pack : Automotive

This is actually the route I would prefer - tapping off a spare switched and constant power spots on the fuse block.

This is similar to what I have done full stereo install/replacement on a 94 T-Bird, 96 Ram, 99 Durango, and 04 GTO as personally owned vehicles which included wiring in switched an constant fuse blocks and ground blocks. Need to ensure everything is electrically isolated from the vehicles system so when something obscure fails electrically, the dealer cannot claim some BS. (Like when somebody says you you can install four 4-ohm speakers - in parallel - into a 2-ohm speaker circuit and then expect the dealer to cover the costs of a fried 2-ohm amp )

 

[Ross61]

I just tucked the wires in the headliner, down the windshield post and under the trim on the floor all the way to the rear fusebox. Used fusetaps for both the constant and ignition power so everything is safely protected from any short circuits. Since all the trim pieces are just flimsy snap in plastic it only took a few minutes. I didn't even have to remove any or the trim. This was on a Challenger but I doubt the Charger build is any different.

How hard was it to get the wire(s) to the rear fuse block? (Forgive my ignorance, don't have the car in my hot little hands yet)

 

[borden72]

I'm researching this install for my Ram and want to install a cam for my Redeye as well but haven't gone into the details for the connections yet. I am sure there are ports in the rear fuse box to install the taps.

 

[audocat]

You may have to look a little further, but I believe they make a connector tap the goes in the mirror pod that provides a power tap without having to run wires and tap into other wires. I don't have this info but I remember seeing it in a post somewhere.

I did this for my radar detector two years ago and works great! Switches on and off with ignition (shuts off with radio and stuff when the car is shut off and door opens). Doesn't sound like op wants to go this route but if anybody does be sure to get the "mirror tap" brand, they are more expensive but you will need the smallest taps to fit. Comes with four sizes and the type of cord for your device in length you choose. Got mine on Amazon, I'd post a link but not sure how LOL. Couple youtube videos for how to install as well.

 

[audocat]

Figured it out! Just in case anybody is interested. Of course you will need correct cord for your application.https://www.amazon.com/MirrorTap-MT...03732&sprefix=mirror+tap+,aps,468&sr=8-4&th=1

 

[akras]

The idea might work if only one powered item was attached, not three. This is where my EE side kicks in.

,,,also looked at the owner manual. Looks like the mirror’s circuit includes power to the sunroof...

So you think that a circuit rated to move a sunroof might not be enough to power a radar detector and two cameras? Am I missing something?

 

[PJO]

If you decide against a mirror tap but want short power runs there is ignition on and always on power in the harness under the overhead console that can be tapped into. I did same to install a small monitor inside the sunglasses compartment for a splitter mounted bullet camera. There are many YouTube videos on removing the console. (Basically just pulling and working carefully).

 

[Ross61]

So you think that a circuit rated to move a sunroof might not be enough to power a radar detector and two cameras? Am I missing something?

No, you're missing anything.

75% of me sides with the position the installed circuit and wiring cancan handle the additional. The other 25% wonders if the manufacturer went from say 12ga wires to 20 gauge wire based on intended use.

 

[Vet Rider]

 

[akras]

75% of me sides with the position the installed circuit and wiring cancan handle the additional. The other 25% wonders if the manufacturer went from say 12ga wires to 20 gauge wire based on intended use.

A radar detector will draw less than 0.5 A (someone actually measured it for Uniden R3, I believe), dash cams are likely less than that. Even a 20 gauge wire (at 0.1 Ohm per 10 ft) will handle that kind of extra load with no issues. Get a camera first, measure its actual power consumption, and go from there. Mirror tap makes everything much easier.