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Who said our cars are 10.00 NHRA approved
Short answer: NHRA

Longer answer: according to the NHRA rulebook, cars that are 2008 or newer that are unaltered don't have to have a roll bar at 11.49, which is what it is for other cars, like muscle cars and pre-2008 cars. You would still of course have to have a driveshaft safety loop, too.

They made this rule because newer cars are MUCH safer than older cars, and because the new mustangs, camaros, and dodges are fast enough stock to go low 11s, high 10s, and they probably figured that if they made all these people put roll bars in their cars, they wouldn't come to the track.

So, it's at 9.99 and/or 135+ that you need to add a roll cage. Roll bars and roll cages are not the same thing. A roll cage has a loop for the roof and bars in the front, and just a whole more.

Caveat: now your particular track may or may not let you run tens in your no roll bar hellcat. Each track can be more restrictive if they decide to. It's their choice.

Also, "unaltered" doesn't mean "unmodified." Unaltered means it's the stock type metal, interior, the air bags, all that sort of stuff, and the engine in the stock location, etc. They don't want someone rolling in with a gutted 2015 challenger and saying, "Hey, I don't need a roll bar or cage or anything", even though it's a stripped down race car.

I think I've read that some track told someone that unaltered meant any modifications, but that's not what "unaltered" is intended to mean. Before even buying our hellcat, I talked to the head NHRA tech inspector at my track to make sure that they would allow me to run to 6.40 (1/8 mile cut off) cause I didn't want to put a roll bar or cage in the car. I race at 5500 DA, and I am hoping for 6.70s next year, on 93 or VP110 if necessary. At my track if you start flirting with 6.40 they will make you cage the car. And there are a bunch of other requirements at that point too.
 

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We’re are you racing that you don’t need roll bars running in the 10s
It doesn't matter where. It's in the rulebook, as I stated above. But, like I said, a particular NHRA track might still make you do it. My track is a stickler on the rules and we follow them.

rules amended

rules amended
 

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This year with a PCM and TCM tune, 93 octane, we ran a 7.24 at 101 mph in the 1/8 at 5500 DA. Ran the MT SS drag radial tire and had some traction problems. I think with traction it would have gone at least 7.10. Going to run the ET street R tires next year that everyone else uses, and also I am putting on a 2.85 pulley and spacer plates, ID1050X injectors, 180 t stat in March and another tune, as mentioned above. Other mods are in my sig. Pretty basic ride. Unfortunately my 2007 Mustang GT is old enough that I am putting a roll bar in that, and it should be in the 6's in the 1/8 too, when I get it done which will take a couple of years probably.
 

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Yes, it's like 5 hours or more to the closed 1/4 mile track and the 1/8 mile is 20 minutes from my house! Plus, during test and tune you can pretty much hot lap your car if you want to.

I have never had a roll bar in any of my cars. My chevelle, 427 BBC, 9.2:1, ran 7.60s at my track in 5500 DA. It would have had to go faster than 7.35 to be required to have a roll bar. At sea level, it would have needed a roll bar, I am sure. I have been racing for almost 35 years, back when 13s and 12s were fast! ha ha
 

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Meant to say closest 1/4 mile track
 

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It's unbelievable how fast cars are today.

You're car is so fast you can't run it at the track! That's just nuts, huh?

My uncle drag raced a 1969 Camaro SS, 4 speed, m22, 4.10 gear stock class car back in the late 60s, and he pulled the motor, blue printed it himself, and he said that around the circuit in my area, on a really good day he would dip into the high 12.90s!

I do think that NHRA has been pretty fair with allowing us to run to 10.00.
 

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Yea I’m willing to get a 6 point roll bars but I don’t wanna go 8point cause then there’s welding involved and I wasn’t looking to get involved with that
 

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Unless it's a full cage, it won't make a difference for tech anyway, if you are running sub 10s.

The roll bar I am putting in my mustang does have a couple of places where you have to weld it. The rear bars have to be welded to the main hoop for it to be NHRA legal. I can weld. If you want some trailer ramps made or the snow plow on your 4 wheeler fixed, I'm your guy. But something technical like this, my uncle, who is an expert welder and fabricator, will weld it up for me. It's got to be done right to meet tech and it's a safety thing.
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Car Vehicle Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Vehicle Motor vehicle Car Green Hood

Seat belt Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Car seat cover
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
The instructions for cutting the plastics did not line up..... So I had to cut in the car with a blade to make them fit. Finished off with trim plates for a clean look.
Hood Automotive design Terrestrial plant Rim Tints and shades

Vehicle Plant Automotive design Personal luxury car Vehicle door

Hood Leg Automotive tire Automotive design Sleeve

Automotive tire Hood Leg Automotive lighting Sleeve
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hard to get pics....
Car Vehicle Automotive design Fixture Automotive tire

Car Vehicle Fixture Automotive design Motor vehicle
 

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That looks freaken great man that’s exactly what I need in mine even the color looks great if u don’t mind me asken what did it cost out the door snd also what is it certified for with NHRA like 9:90s
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Thanks.
Chromoly 6pt
$2,345.00
They included the sublime powdercoat and delivery from OR to PA (2,577 miles freight).
Production took way longer than the quoted 6-8 weeks, it was over 16 weeks, but with end of season, it didn't matter.

It sounds costly, but I had a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD caged locally back in the early 2000s, it cost me $1,500 and I had to paint it myself...
 
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