[Kelly_AM]

Hi: I've scoured the Internet and know this topic is discussed. I am getting random pop-ups of this warning and I narrowed to the driver side, rear strut. When I jiggle the wire, I can make it throw the code. But it's intermittent so the car operates just fine and I can change the suspension. Diagnostic displays nothing and no CEL. Is there a fuse I can pull or something I can disconnect that will at least stop the annoying chime long enough for me to proceed for maintenance? I saw a post about f48, but I don't have an F48, I'm guessing because I'm not AWD...

I am an electronics tech by trade, I see that the harness connection between the strut harness and the artery back to the module (presumed) is weak but I can't prove if it's the actual harness on the shock side or the connector itself, or worse, the main cable headed back to the module. I just bought this car used and I got a service contract which I have little faith in (Guardian Global Protection) so I made an appointment for this weds to see if it works.

Thank you in advance.

 

[Kelly_AM]

Update: I discovered that by unplugging the correct strut, the chiming stops and it just locks in Sport mode which is perfectly fine. But I can't tell if the problem is with the harness or the wire going back to the controller.

I found the controller in the trunk but I see that all it's interfaces are intertwined to one harness. I can't find the pinout for the module and I can't see the colors of the wires to try to find them in the module's harness😑

 

[GreenMachine15]

Guaranteed the wire is rubbed through somewhere. Did you go to a larger rear tire?

 

[Kelly_AM]

Guaranteed the wire is rubbed through somewhere. Did you go to a larger rear tire?

I just bought the car used a few days ago. I crawled under and I can see pinch points on the shock side of the harness where the clips were at, although it would be a lot of wire to pull back to find it. I could just replace the harness from the valve to the main connector, J think it's like $135 and looks easy enough to replace. Of course if I'm wrong then there went $135 LOL! But there are no rubs whatsoever. In fact both wires are unremarkable. Tire size is 275/40 ZR20 106Y.

 

[Adrenaline Rush]

If it's random just like Green machine said look for a rub through. It will probably be a rub through from the tire or wheel. I know firsthand after putting 17 inch wheels on. Even with stock size tires and wheels the wire may not be properly located. Mine was actually grounding out to the wheel.

 

[Adrenaline Rush]

Just read the no rubs above so maybe not?

 

[Kelly_AM]

Just read the no rubs above so maybe not?

The wire is unremarkable. Not even that dirty. There are creases in it but I suspect the connector either needs to be repinned or the harness is jacked up. Hate to spent $136 on a perfectly good wire tho😑

 

[Kelly_AM]

Does anyone have access to the wiring diagram for the active damping system? I I knew which wires went into the module, I could pull a new run down to the strut.

 

[Robisoda]

Voila

 

[GreenMachine15]

I am shocked that you can buy that harness separate...... Must be connector to module.
I rubbed through the left rear 1st year with my 17" 315/50/17 conversion. I just fixed it.
If it is in the shock harness itself, that will need a repair, I doubt they service that separately from the shock.

 

[Kelly_AM]

Voila
View attachment 581254

Thank you so much!!! This is exactly what I was looking for!

 

[Kelly_AM]

I am shocked that you can buy that harness separate...... Must be connector to module.
I rubbed through the left rear 1st year with my 17" 315/50/17 conversion. I just fixed it.
If it is in the shock harness itself, that will need a repair, I doubt they service that separately from the shock.

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It costs $136 if memory serves me correctly.

 

[GreenMachine15]

Glad to know
👍🏻

 

[Kelly_AM]

Final update; but before I get to that, a little background... On Saturday, 2 days after I bought it, I took it in for an alignment and asked them to check the battery. Turns out the voltage was low and it wasn't charging, it barely had juice to start the car so they replaced the battery. Same day I unplugged the left rear shock to stop the random chines. I left it unplugged and just let it ride in Sport mode.

Today dealership took it in, plugged the shock back in, shook, tugged and jiggled and jiggled and drove on rough roads and did everything he could to duplicate the problem and not one single alarm for the whole two hours. All he did was plug it back in. He saw the codes the PCM dumped and did find something....

He saw the PCM threw numerous low voltage codes, followed by hits from the left rear strut and then an open circuit alarm from when I unplugged it. He thinks a combination of low voltage and maybe corrosion on the connector was the root cause. They said they'll take it back free of charge if it happens again but so far everything is fine🤔

 

[mossess]

I am shocked that you can buy that harness separate...... Must be connector to module.
I rubbed through the left rear 1st year with my 17" 315/50/17 conversion. I just fixed it.
If it is in the shock harness itself, that will need a repair, I doubt they service that separately from the shock.

How did you fix it? I cut through the wire with a larger size wheel and I cannot change the setting from Sport.

 

[Kelly_AM]

Took it to the dealer. They couldn't duplicate the problem, charged $180 for the diag and said they'll troubleshoot for free if it still happens. The problem magically disappeared after it visited the dealer.

My two cents, I think it was a loose wire on the OTHER side of the harness which would've been fixed when the tech unplugged and plugged it back in.

If you can't change the setting, you need to cut/resplice the wires or replace the harness between the strut and the connector as mentioned earlier. Also, you may have issues with two wheels, not just the one you know of. Good luck.

 

[Kelly_AM]

How did you fix it? I cut through the wire with a larger size wheel and I cannot change the setting from Sport.

Also, have someone sit up front, jiggle the wires for each of the wheels, if they get an alarm pop-up when you jiggle, that may help you resolve which wheel or wheels is giving you the issue.

 

[GreenMachine15]

How did you fix it? I cut through the wire with a larger size wheel and I cannot change the setting from Sport.

I used heat shrinking butt connectors, then wrapped everything with electrical tape, and covered it with loom. Zip tied everything nice and snug to the link.

 

[DodgeCares]

Took it to the dealer. They couldn't duplicate the problem, charged $180 for the diag and said they'll troubleshoot for free if it still happens. The problem magically disappeared after it visited the dealer.

My two cents, I think it was a loose wire on the OTHER side of the harness which would've been fixed when the tech unplugged and plugged it back in.

If you can't change the setting, you need to cut/resplice the wires or replace the harness between the strut and the connector as mentioned earlier. Also, you may have issues with two wheels, not just the one you know of. Good luck.

Thank you for this update. Please be sure to keep us posted as you continue to monitor this. If you find yourself having to work with your dealer again, we're more than happy to get you connected with case specialists who can work alongside your dealers to explore all potential solutions. Feel free to follow up with us via private message if this would be of interest.

Rob
Dodge Cares

 

[chawkins2001]

Does anyone have the wiring harness part number for $136?