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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2016 charger hellcat. I recently threw on 315/50/17's. I did the required plastic cutting and hammering for them not to rub. I did a couple test drive an no rubbing. But on my drive to work, I got the "service active dampening". I've read that the wire probably got rubbed by the tires. I'll have to check when I get home. But my main question is, can I splice them back together and move them out of the way or do I have to soder them? I can't find the specific cable for under like $210. If I can repair it, I'd prefer that. Thanks in advance
 

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2016 charger hellcat. I recently threw on 315/50/17's. I did the required plastic cutting and hammering for them not to rub. I did a couple test drive an no rubbing. But on my drive to work, I got the "service active dampening". I've read that the wire probably got rubbed by the tires. I'll have to check when I get home. But my main question is, can I splice them back together and move them out of the way or do I have to soder them? I can't find the specific cable for under like $210. If I can repair it, I'd prefer that. Thanks in advance
I had this happen to me. Didn’t check the clearance of the electrical wire on one side when I put wide Mickey’s on and tire rubbed through the wire. I put it up on stands, spliced, soldered, then wrapped with quality electrical tape. That was 4 years ago and many miles - no issues since. Fixed the active dampening immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I had this happen to me. Didn’t check the clearance of the electrical wire on one side when I put wide Mickey’s on and tire rubbed through the wire. I put it up on stands, spliced, soldered, then wrapped with quality electrical tape. That was 4 years ago and many miles - no issues since. Fixed the active dampening immediately.
If it yanked it hard enough and it possibly came out on the shock absorber side. Is it a pain to replace?
 

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One trick to protect a splice in a bad location is to solder and tape, then put a rubber or plastic tube over the splice. Squirt silicone calking in both ends to seal.
 

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If it yanked it hard enough and it possibly came out on the shock absorber side. Is it a pain to replace?
I don’t know, luckily I was able to fix mine without having to replace the wire.
 

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Happened to me years ago with 315s.
The thick rubber casing will need to be cut open to expose the small wires.
Just use a heat shrinking butt connector, wrap with tape nicely, and put loom over it. Zip tie everything securely and it will not happen again.
 
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