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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yeah, probably… That’s why I asked specifically what he did. This forum has been incredibly useful for me as a means of learning this platform and planning my build. The power level he claims to have achieved has been my goal since I sold my last hot rod, LONG before I decided to do it with a HC. Hell, when I sold my last car the HC didn’t even exist yet. My goal all along has been 4-digit streetable power from a dependable and comfortable car. I have been patiently waiting 8 months for my Gen 5 to ship and have been living vicariously through others who are already there.
I did a Magnuson 2650 and 1700 injectors E 85 differential brace cold air intake and I making it 998 hp to the wheel I’m also going to do a ADD drag pack and control arms with a 15 inch conversion coming up have no traction on 18s have to go to 15 tried 17s did not work that’s why I’m doing the suspension work and I bought a driveshaft shop aluminum one piece but may take it out because of the vibration do not recommend one piece aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft shop all my work was done but now since I’m doing the conversion I think I want more horsepower but they say the engine could only handle 1000 hp safely and I don’t wanna mess with nitrous And because my car is a 2020 superstock they only made 190 of these vehicles and I’m one of five of my configuration so everyone’s telling me to leave the engine alone that’s why I’m axing so again add more horsepower or leave it alone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
As posted it's your car... The prevailing opinion is these cars will live a long happy life and can be drag raced reguarly at 850rwhp(mid to high 9sec. car depending on race weight, DA), preferably on E85 for safety. Once you exceed this common threshoold the failure rate of parts seems to multiply in frequency many, many times over. If you want to run 1000rwhp and race a lot, you will need to start at the rear of the car modifying forward - rear end, axles & suspension, fuel system, transmission, engine... at this point does it make since to try and turn this platform into a 1000+rwhp that can handle track use. if you just want to go to cruise ins and put your dyno slip in the window then you will be fine 1000rwhp, but if you actually want to race the car it's going to take a lot of additional mods to make it reliable at 1000+.

My advice would be turn the power down a bit from where your at currently and go run mid 9 second passes all day every day - that's the sweet spot on the upper end of the platform's capability without spending a whole bunch of money.
I’m doing Add drag pack and control arms already she’s been sitting very happy at a thousand horsepower the transmission handles it perfectly traction however has been next to impossible tried four different sets of tires and sizes for Mickey Thompson To Nitto 18 to 17 345 to 305 none of them have work for traction except at the track on the 17 305 45 Mickey Thompson’s a 9.450 but I Mark the tires and the rim and seen the tire was spinning on the rim that’s what made me do the conversion but my end goal is to make a drivable and nine second car that has traction when I use the throttle no matter the surface
 

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I did a Magnuson 2650 and 1700 injectors E 85 differential brace cold air intake and I making it 998 hp to the wheel I’m also going to do a ADD drag pack and control arms with a 15 inch conversion coming up have no traction on 18s have to go to 15 tried 17s did not work that’s why I’m doing the suspension work and I bought a driveshaft shop aluminum one piece but may take it out because of the vibration do not recommend one piece aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft shop all my work was done but now since I’m doing the conversion I think I want more horsepower but they say the engine could only handle 1000 hp safely and I don’t wanna mess with nitrous And because my car is a 2020 superstock they only made 190 of these vehicles and I’m one of five of my configuration so everyone’s telling me to leave the engine alone that’s why I’m axing so again add more horsepower or leave it alone?
I see no reason to go any further without knowing what your goals are. Also just because they didn't make many 2020 Superstock's won't mean much because they made plenty more in 2021 and will in 2022. Being a 2020 isn't adding any more value, it's just a Superstock. Any potential profitable resale value you had in the car was thrown away when you modified it anyway.
 

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I did a Magnuson 2650 and 1700 injectors E 85 differential brace cold air intake and I making it 998 hp to the wheel I’m also going to do a ADD drag pack and control arms with a 15 inch conversion coming up have no traction on 18s have to go to 15 tried 17s did not work that’s why I’m doing the suspension work and I bought a driveshaft shop aluminum one piece but may take it out because of the vibration do not recommend one piece aluminum driveshaft from driveshaft shop all my work was done but now since I’m doing the conversion I think I want more horsepower but they say the engine could only handle 1000 hp safely and I don’t wanna mess with nitrous And because my car is a 2020 superstock they only made 190 of these vehicles and I’m one of five of my configuration so everyone’s telling me to leave the engine alone that’s why I’m axing so again add more horsepower or leave it alone?
Thanks! Very similar to my build, except I am going with the new Whipple and 1300’s. I’m also going to have a CF driveshaft and full AAD done at the same time. I already have a set of 315 MT ET R’s, but no wheels yet as I am working with a vendor to have custom 17” SS wheels made. Sounds like I should sell the tires and go straight to 15’s?

The way I understand it these bottom ends are good for 1100-1200 hp, and if your putting 998 to the wheel you are getting pretty close to that at the crank. What would you do next? Headers, heads, cam?

i guess my question back to you is, are you prepared to do a full-on 426 build if your motor lets go? If you are, try pushing your motor a little further. If you place value on the originality of your limited production 2020, I wouldn’t go any further and I’d focus more on improving traction.
 

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Challenger SRT Hellcat
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Yeah, probably… That’s why I asked specifically what he did. This forum has been incredibly useful for me as a means of learning this platform and planning my build. The power level he claims to have achieved has been my goal since I sold my last hot rod, LONG before I decided to do it with a HC. Hell, when I sold my last car the HC didn’t even exist yet. My goal all along has been 4-digit streetable power from a dependable and comfortable car. I have been patiently waiting 8 months for my Gen 5 to ship and have been living vicariously through others who are already there.
You can make 4 digit hp with stock blower. 2.75 upper, 9% lower, ported supercharger with 100mm throttle body, CAI, catless longtubes + supporting mods and I make 1019 whp.
 

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Damn, that’s impressive. On 93 or E85? What is the best you’ve run with it?
It would have to be E85 or race fuel unless the engine is a stroker.
 

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Thanks! Very similar to my build, except I am going with the new Whipple and 1300’s. I’m also going to have a CF driveshaft and full AAD done at the same time. I already have a set of 315 MT ET R’s, but no wheels yet as I am working with a vendor to have custom 17” SS wheels made. Sounds like I should sell the tires and go straight to 15’s?

The way I understand it these bottom ends are good for 1100-1200 hp, and if your putting 998 to the wheel you are getting pretty close to that at the crank. What would you do next? Headers, heads, cam?

i guess my question back to you is, are you prepared to do a full-on 426 build if your motor lets go? If you are, try pushing your motor a little further. If you place value on the originality of your limited production 2020, I wouldn’t go any further and I’d focus more on improving traction.
Someone DOES have a complete, bolt-in rear solid axle suspension setup for these, if you want more reliable rear end behavior with mainly bolt-off and bolt-ons. Not advisable for rough roads and/or cornering.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks! Very similar to my build, except I am going with the new Whipple and 1300’s. I’m also going to have a CF driveshaft and full AAD done at the same time. I already have a set of 315 MT ET R’s, but no wheels yet as I am working with a vendor to have custom 17” SS wheels made. Sounds like I should sell the tires and go straight to 15’s?

The way I understand it these bottom ends are good for 1100-1200 hp, and if your putting 998 to the wheel you are getting pretty close to that at the crank. What would you do next? Headers, heads, cam?

i guess my question back to you is, are you prepared to do a full-on 426 build if your motor lets go? If you are, try pushing your motor a little further. If you place value on the originality of your limited production 2020, I wouldn’t go any further and I’d focus more on improving traction.
I want to do headers in a cam but my shop tells me that will put my engine to the max the reason I went with the 2650 is because it runs much cooler than the Whipple and I do not need the ice tank but I think I am just going to focus on traction for now
 

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‘16 Challenger w a shaker scoop where the blower should be : )
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Yeah that’s prolly what it is. I saw it on YouTube and liked the stance. Dude claims 2500 hp : )

For the op car to run 9.4 @ only 140 wouldn’t ya say he is already pulling off some phenomenal 60’ numbers???

Love to see some time slips n vids
 

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2021 widebody Redeye Pitch Black.
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That looks like a Hot Rod Magazine Pro Touring car, affordable by snot-nosed celebrities who have never in their lives turned a single wrench, aka Hot Rod's target demographic.
This is exactly why I quit reading that magazine. It's gotten beyond the reach of a regular car guy.
 

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‘16 Challenger w a shaker scoop where the blower should be : )
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The universe is under no obligation whatsoever to make any sort of sense to me

And it doesn’t…

And today that’s ok : )
 
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