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Is the back tire even with the top of the fender ? I like your a lot but I swear others I have seen look lower in the front than yours and I dont want that
Equal spacing. I wish the front sat a touch higher. In Florida a lot of the driveways are steep angles from the road and the splitter is wanting to scrape. I usually can angle my way into the driveway to prevent scraping.
 

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The driveshaft or the axles?

The driveshaft shouldn't move a millimetre if there is a change in suspension height. It isn't a live axle car so the amount of differential movement is minor. The driveshaft is essentially fixed between the output, carrier bearing, and pinion flange.

The operating angles of the axles definitely come into play, especially with excessive lowering. But, even then on a road trip with a car full of adults and a trunk full of junk, you can expect the static ride height to come down pretty sufficiently. There is lots of compliance built in.

If you do lower the car significantly make sure to get all the parts needed to do the appropriate camber, caster, and toe adjustments.

ok!.. go ahead and be my guest.. I have only done several cars and found out with actual results..
 

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ok!.. go ahead and be my guest.. I have only done several cars and found out with actual results..
Then share your findings or at least stop acting like an egotistical child.
 

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you know, I didn't say one thing insulting to you--and yet you claim I'm an egotistical child... amazing..
Anecdotes aren't helping anyone here. If you say you know better and can disprove what I wrote I encourage you to do so. Since you have the "facts".

But, otherwise... it's cool, hoard your cookies.
 

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Anecdotes are helping anyone here. If you say you know better and can disprove what I wrote I encourage you to do so. Since you have the "facts".

But, otherwise... it's cool, hoard your cookies.
My experience is that lowering the car caused a drivetrain vibration on "3" different Redeyes--the lower you go, the greater the vibration on wide open acceleration. Raised back to factory spec heights on all 3 of the units and the vibration went away.. Real life, real world, no guessing--rack to street, back to rack, back to street and back to original height--I have raced everything from Drags to half mile circle track, sprint cars and up to Nascar units and I think I understand the issue better than the average bear...
Now if you want to lower your car, go ahead--when the driveshaft or axles go bad, remember you have been warned. I wish you all the best in your quest for speed!
 

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My experience is that lowering the car caused a drivetrain vibration on "3" different Redeyes--the lower you go, the greater the vibration on wide open acceleration. Raised back to factory spec heights on all 3 of the units and the vibration went away.. Real life, real world, no guessing--rack to street, back to rack, back to street and back to original height--I have raced everything from Drags to half mile circle track, sprint cars and up to Nascar units and I think I understand the issue better than the average bear...
Now if you want to lower your car, go ahead--when the driveshaft or axles go bad, remember you have been warned. I wish you all the best in your quest for speed!
That is still ridiculously anecdotal.

How much were the cars lowered? An inch or dumped in the weeds?
Were they realigned to within factory specs (using a camber correction kit (bolts, bushings, or both), adjustable arms (if so, who's)? Or did you just leave whatever "mad" camber was there at the time of installation? This applies to the front and rear.
Did you see a collapse at the driveshaft? If so that is pretty impressive considering the cradle, carrier bearing, and transmission shouldn't have moved being in a fixed position.
Axles, sure. That I get as a possibility if their operating angles were left all jacked up from excessive lowering and bound up internally.

I couldn't careless about your "racing resume". That doesn't qualify you as a subject matter expert. Empirically answering the questions above, might get you closer. Repeating the same mistake 3 times, is well off that path to expertise. Sounds like a case of slow learning.
 

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That is still ridiculously anecdotal.

How much were the cars lowered? An inch or dumped in the weeds?
Were they realigned to within factory specs (using a camber correction kit (bolts, bushings, or both), adjustable arms (if so, who's)? Or did you just leave whatever "mad" camber was there at the time of installation? This applies to the front and rear.
Did you see a collapse at the driveshaft? If so that is pretty impressive considering the cradle, carrier bearing, and transmission shouldn't have moved being in a fixed position.
Axles, sure. That I get as a possibility if their operating angles were left all jacked up from excessive lowering and bound up internally.

I couldn't careless about your "racing resume". That doesn't qualify you as a subject matter expert. Empirically answering the questions above, might get you closer. Repeating the same mistake 3 times, is well off that path to expertise. Sounds like a case of slow learning.
Now you're posing questions about alignments, nuts and bolts with spring jobs--Wow you have all the tough questions.. ok hammerhead--you want to keep sending messages with never ending qualifying questions and scenarios--keep on, the more you post, the more you show your lack of experience, you're a novice.
Now here's the truth about you--your questions are "internet search knowledge" not actual experience.. I have fabricated hundreds of race cars--you couldn't carry my jock strap mechanically or with racing experience. I was bolting pinion snubbers on differentials when you weren't an itch on your Daddy's leg yet. You better learn something about geometry before you come in here lecturing others about ride height and drivelines. What do you want Junior, a 4 hour youtube video with step by step help?? Want somebody to come over and hold your hand, or better yet fabricate a race car for you? Go ahead, lower your REDEYE if you actually have one, or keep selling your lowering kits to others! When your axles shoot craps don't come crying to Papa..
Go ahead and Lower it! There's nothing like real life experience and failures to learn by..
Have nice day.
 

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Now you're posing questions about alignments, nuts and bolts with spring jobs--Wow you have all the tough questions.. ok hammerhead--you want to keep sending messages with never ending qualifying questions and scenarios--keep on, the more you post, the more you show your lack of experience, you're a novice.
Now here's the truth about you--your questions are "internet search knowledge" not actual experience.. I have fabricated hundreds of race cars--you couldn't carry my jock strap mechanically or with racing experience. I was bolting pinion snubbers on differentials when you weren't an itch on your Daddy's leg yet. You better learn something about geometry before you come in here lecturing others about ride height and drivelines. What do you want Junior, a 4 hour youtube video with step by step help?? Want somebody to come over and hold your hand, or better yet fabricate a race car for you? Go ahead, lower your REDEYE if you actually have one, or keep selling your lowering kits to others! When your axles shoot craps don't come crying to Papa..
Go ahead and Lower it! There's nothing like real life experience and failures to learn by..
Have nice day.
Yes, that's exactly what I want. The facts. Which you are unwilling or incapable of providing.

Why is that?

Again, if you have this HUGE body of knowledge why would you lower a car like that (slap some springs in it) and not address the other deficiencies and knock-on effects in the first place? And then do it again... and again?

If you did address the deficiencies: why not reveal the remediation efforts and why they were ineffective?

It still doesn't explain three failed attempts... maybe you tried it three different ways with the same result? But, only your hairdresser knows for sure.
 

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Yes, that's exactly what I want. The facts. Which you are unwilling or incapable of providing.

Why is that?

Again, if you have this HUGE body of knowledge why would lower a car like that (slap some springs in it) and not address the other deficiencies and knock-on effects in the first place? And then do it again... and again?

If you did address the deficiencies: why not reveal the remediation efforts and why they were ineffective?

It still doesn't explain three failed attempts... maybe you tried it three different ways with the same result? But, only your hairdresser knows for sure.
you're a little crazy Pal
 

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Here's my take on lowering the car. First off, yes it looks cool. The photos in this thread all show Hellcat Challengers with a great stance. Before my current Challenger Redeye WB, I had Corvettes. I'd lower them and loved the look. But lowering can cause problems. Steep driveway ramps have to be taken at an angle. You can literally "high-side" the car on a tall, steep driveway ramp, where the car is literally resting on the frame at the high point of the ramp. I've done it. I've scooped up carcasses of dead animals that I saw too late due to following another car that just drives over it. Dude, 2 day old dead skunks really stink up the car.

Speed bumps have to be approached slowly, and definitely off the brakes immediately before the ramp or the spoiler will contact the speed bump due to the nose dropping when braking. Suspension travel will be reduced unless the lowering is a homogenous process, meaning all things must be considered: control arms, attachment points, driveline angles, tire clearances, and alignment changes. My bet is that the car will corner and stop better with the stock ride height anyway. I don't know about drag race launching, but my educated guess would be that wider and stickier rear tires would benefit the car the most, not lowering it.

So lower if you must, but there will definitely be a downside to it. The Dodge engineers know that customers love cars that sit low, but street performance requires enough height to: corner effectively: enough height to get a tad bit of weight transfer onto the back tires during launching; enough height to not bang the nose during hard braking; enough to clear driveway ramps and speed bumps; and enough to enable wide tires to clear fender wells on bumpy roads. Good luck.
 

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100% correctomundo! The gap keeps the driveshaft from binding on hard accel..
It's mainly to allow for the car to squat during acceleration, which increases grip. This is why lowered cars* are substantially slower than unlowered cars.

* - When lowered with springs. Coilovers still allow for proper suspension travel/rebound. Springs leave the suspension in a charged state which not only inhibits the car's ability to transfer power towards the rear, but it adds additional wheel hop. And don't try and link me what Eibach says you can do with their springs. I don't listen to marketing. You can't cheat physics.
 

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:geek:
I thought I was going to get some answers to questions I have about lowering spring but instead got two folks fighting over whose is longer.

I plan to set my Redeye up for road course fun and maybe competition at some point when I can finally catch up to the capabilities of the car. I reached out to a professional driver who recommended a few things such as wider/stickier tires, track specific brake pads and brake fluid. Also on the list is replacing the factory Brembo's with Viper ACR-E brake caliper's and also lowering the car a bit with an emphasis on a softer front and stiffer rear springs. He did not recommend a manufacturer of lowering springs so I've been on a search. I've got a full AAD suspension kit ready to bolt on but want to get springs so I can do the work at the same time. The AAD kit will allow me to adjust/correct the camber and toe to street and/or track depending on what is needed.

In my search for springs I've been trying to find the 2019 Redeye factory spring rates so I can make sure the replacement set is an improvement in my desired direction. I've heard the OEM Scat Pack springs might be close to what I'm looking for in spring rate but won't lower the car. The Mopar Perf lowering springs might lower the car but if I'm not mistaken won't do what I need in spring rate.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I've got a pretty short one so I won't be fun to fight with.
 

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Pretty funny read so far.

it really depends what you are trying to accomplish with the car. Do you wanna look cool and scrape a little? Drop it 1.5-2 inches. Will your axles fail right away? Not unless you’ve got 100,000 miles on em. Lowering a car whos axles have high mileage and have already bedded in at stock ride height is asking for axle failure. Ask me how I know. Lowering a new car or even one with 50,000 miles you’ll probably be fine.

like the better fighter said, lowering a car with drop springs or coilovers will change the suspension geometry not to mention pinion angle, even if just slightly. This is not good for performance as the SRT guys knew what they were doing when they designed the vehicle from the ground up.

The weaker fighter in this thread doesn’t seem to understand why drop knuckles exist. And seems to think he can do it better than the SRT guys. If he is so right why doesn’t he work for SRT as a lead engineer in the suspension department and why don’t these cars come from the factory slammed?

I’ve got plenty of lowered other cars and therefore do not feel the need to drop mycat at all. Personally I like the stock ride height and the heritage it stands for. It represents exactly what it is and I do not want to detract from that one bit. Look at the 66-74 mopar products with jacked up rear ends. No shocks in the front, or one small hole drilled into da ca them so there’s no oil in em so the front floats optimizing weight transfer to the rear and one extra air shock in the right rear so when the rear end torques down on launch and the right rear end drops farther down than left, that extra right air shock levels the rear end for the perfectly aligned launch, THATS where it’s at. For the quarter mile you want it like that for as another mindful member stated for grip and squat, and what he didn’t mention which is OPTIMIZED WEIGHT TRANSFER. It is optimized transfer of weight onto the back tires and a perfectly aligned rear end under a full throttle launch which is necessary to effectively lay down the power in a straight line on the strip. Just look at the mopar lowering springs, esp the rear height- the lowering amount reflects this as well.

funny cause the Redeye is more “track” oriented so lowering a bit might be okay but I got this car for its straight line performance, who are we kidding. 800 horse can’t really be laid down wide open in a hard corner. The track style brakes and wheels help me handle on the street safer overall which I appreciate, but it ain’t no ‘ring machine.

Thecar Will never be as nice as it is from the factory and going in to lower and mess with stuff invasively like that is asking for more unwanted rattles and problems. It’s just not worth it IMO on this car, although I love how the guys blue lowered cat on silver wheels looks (see hereispappagrays cat on page 1) that thing is SICK and if you are gonna lower it that is the template to match anything higher is a waste of time and you might as well leave it stock.

imo if you’re gonna drop it, do it like he (see hereispappagrays cat on page 1) did don’t play around with the mopar lowering springs. You want a half finger to one finger wheel gap or don’t even waste your time.

Just my 2 cents
 
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