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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Just finished putting the blower back together after installing a pulley. When I replaced the gaskets. I only replaced the passenger side intercooler gaskets. I left the driver side alone due to not touching the retaining bolts on that side.

Once everything was button up and the tune uploaded I tried to fire it up. It started turning over then stopped. Battery was around 11.8 which had my head scratching why it wasn't turning. Electrical light was on so I figured low battery. Jumped the car and it fired up. Sounded a little off(not as aggressive like a normal cold start). let it run as I was data logging, and notice smoke out of the rear. I replaced the coolant with distilled water so there was no distinguishing smell. I started seeing water coming out of the exhaust and notice the coolant tank was getting low. Figure it was the air in the system. Still having water come out of the exhaust. AFR was 12.9-13.3. But its a fresh tune. shut the car off and still had water coming out of a exhaust leak from my cats to x pipe(I have a small exhaust leak here after installing the driveshaft). Check codes and was getting a misfire condition. I had installed new plugs and injectors too so I know that wasn't the issue. Plus I had a rich mixture and no knock. There is definitely too much water coming out of the exhaust. I'm figuring that cylinder 7, and 8 are misfiring and very concerned of the health of those cylinders.

My questions are:
The service manual says pressurized the system. Would not doing this cause a leak around the tank o-rings?

How does one even pressurize the system? The manual says using a pressurized air operated vacuum generator. Is there a one way valve in the system to plug one up too besides the bleeder screw?
UPDATE: The bleeder valve appears to be the one way check valve(Initially I thought it was just a plug).
Is there a specific connector that is available or is going with a traditional brake caliper bleeder the best option?

I replaced the tank gaskets from inside of the s/c and did not remove the rear coolant crossover(coolant passageway). Could doing it this way be pinching the o-rings?
Should I pull off the coolant passageway off and install it with new gaskets and see if that's causing my issues?
UPDATE: I removed the coolant passageway from the back of the S/C. Replaced drivers side o-rings and inspected the new ones on the passenger side. Then reinstalled and torqued by hand(no specs in the manual). This appears to stop the internal leak. Still monitoring the vehicle. Having a little more than normal misfires in cylinder 7. Going to check plugs and do a compression check to be on the safe side. Coolant level appears to be holding at full after 2 cycles.

I took the tank out and filled it with water. Tilted it 90 degrees with the inlet and outlet on top filled to the brim. I did not see any leaking from the tank/fins. Is there a better way to test if the tank has a leak or does this test substantial enough?

Thanks for the help guys and gals. I spent hours looking for a answer.

I'm going to keep this as up to date as I can with my findings. As these cars get older, I'm sure more people will run into these issues as the cars start leaving warranty and more people build these cars up at home and not have shops do the work.
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