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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Some may have read my last post about my poor 60’ times and me struggling to get my car to hook. I went to the track last night and the track was prepped really well. First run I did a 2500rpm launch and the car bogged bad before hooking up amazingly throughout first and second and so on. Next run I launched at 4K RPM and BOOM! Initially I thought it was the clutch, pushed the car off the track and did some looking around, letting out the clutch and looking under the car the driveshaft was spinning but the car wasn’t going anywhere, I could hear some grinding in the rear diff. The car does have a per4mance development diff brace and the actual diff housing and brace were all intact and didn’t appear cracked. I’m guessing either both axle shafts snapped or the ring and pinion in the diff exploded, car is getting pulled apart today, I will keep people posted. Curious as to people’s thoughts?
I’m secretly hoping it’s the diff so I can upgrade to the 3.90 lol
 

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Upgrade to a 3.09? You have a 3.70 in the M6...

What tires and rims were you running? And which P4D brace?
 

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Im having the same problem (M6) bogging but I was on 20" 555RIIs, just got a Forgestar drag pack 17" with same MT ET Street R's also (skinnies too). I have a CCI DS and the P4D DIRS. Well, now I know NOT to try leaving at 4K! Sorry for your mishap.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Im having the same problem (M6) bogging but I was on 20" 555RIIs, just got a Forgestar drag pack 17" with same MT ET Street R's also (skinnies too). I have a CCI DS and the P4D DIRS. Well, now I know NOT to try leaving at 4K! Sorry fo your mishap.
Wait until you launch on that drag pack, night and day difference from the 555’s, you’re going to love being able to put the power to the ground. It’s all good, any car making this much power is bound to break at some point, fun part will be building it better and stronger now.
 

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What psi have you found to be optimal on the MTs?

Yeah I bought all the supporting mods to prevent a breakage lol. I figure my next "needed" purchase will either be a new clutch and/or axles. Honestly I would do those before any further power adders.
Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
What psi have you found to be optimal on the MTs?

Yeah I bought all the supporting mods to prevent a breakage lol. I figure my next "needed" purchase will either be a new clutch and/or axles. Honestly I would do those before any further power adders.
Fingers crossed.
I have played around a bit with PSI, 18 seems to work the best for me. I thought I had all the supporting mods as well 😂. I’m still on a stock clutch as well, car only has 3400 miles on it. I’m sure I’ll be installing a McLeod RXT 1200 in no time.
 

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I have played around a bit with PSI, 18 seems to work the best for me. I thought I had all the supporting mods as well 😂. I’m still on a stock clutch as well, car only has 3400 miles on it. I’m sure I’ll be installing a McLeod RXT 1200 in no time.
Ok thanks. LOL. Im at 7700. (y)
 

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@Mack0092 How cold was it while you were racing?


Linda :)
 

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I was just reviewing my logs yesterday and my best 60s (1.9s) came with a launch RPM over 3500. The issue is that you have to slip the clutch. Otherwise it will find the weakest link - which we hope is the clutch.
 

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Last night it was around 45°, it got cooler when the sun went down but I didn’t pay much attention as to how cold it got exactly.
I had a feeling you were going to say that!

I had the 1st half shaft break in 2015.
But in reality it was the diff that broke 1st because of the cold weather and when the Dif breaks it then can also take out the Driveshaft.

For my A8 I have had the P4D original brace and have not broken another Diff.

But I do not race if the track isnt 50 degrees.
That mean the track not the air.
Our night was also 45 but not many cars were there keeping the track heated.

Also that night my husband's @ Top Cat
Challengers diff broke and the carbon fiber DS spewed out the back like spaghetti!

Other cars broke too
It was one clean up after another

Oh I got the honorable mention of making it past the 300 ft lolol

Your DSS driveshaft is strong enough.

Linda :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a feeling you were going to say that!

I had the 1st half shaft break in 2015.
But in reality it was the diff that broke 1st because of the cold weather and when the Dif breaks it then can also take out the Driveshaft.

For my A8 I have had the P4D original brace and have not broken another Diff.

But I do not race if the track isnt 50 degrees.
That mean the track not the air.
Our night was also 45 but not many cars were there keeping the track heated.

Also that night my husband's @ Top Cat
Challengers diff broke and the carbon fiber DS spewed out the back like spaghetti!

Other cars broke too
It was one clean up after another

Oh I got the honorable mention of making it past the 300 ft lolol

Your DSS driveshaft is strong enough.

Linda :)
Jesus, rough night lol I guess the cars don’t like the cold! Hopefully I’ll find out later today what actually broke so I can start the fun of ordering new parts.
 

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2020 SRT SUPER STOCK HELLRAISIN
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Jesus, rough night lol I guess the cars don’t like the cold! Hopefully I’ll find out later today what actually broke so I can start the fun of ordering new parts.
If I were you guys I would be running the ET STREET R Bias ply. It is designed for the Manual Trans. Well, I would at least try it. I think it is designed to slip and give you some wheel speed on the launch protecting all the driveline parts. If this is true then yes you could dump the clutch at 4000 rpm.

One way to make the stock clutch last is to be sure and cool down some after each pass. I have read if you hot lap it will not hold and you will smoke the clutch. Only passing along what I have read and makes sense to me.
 

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The best way to avoid driveline shock Is a 15” rear drag brake package like the Mopar drag pack cars. There’s some really nice kit options out there. Keep your factory front big brakes with some Skinnies. Really works out well.
 

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These are the two tires I am currently looking at switching to:


 
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