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Theft Prevention

19129 Views 50 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  mschultz443
Wanted to start a single thread for everyone to use (sticky and keep open for add on comments if ya want to Admin) to see options for theft prevention or deterrence. Here are a couple of what I know of and/or am installing on my Cat. Please keep this thread to actual options for people to use on their cars so that it can be a one stop thread to see what others use. Garages and great insurance are a give in but not everyone has a garage and some love their car enough that replacing it through insurance isn’t really what they want.

Is a OBD2 locking cover plate. This will prevent cloning of keys/reprogramming keys via the OBD2 port. Very simple to install and remove for track days. Owner is pretty helpful with answering questions if you call.


This is a multi pin plug that acts similar to a kill switch. The company is very well known. The car acts normal until someone tries to start it with out the plug installed. This is a bit more expensive, and will need to be installed by a pro. This will prevent use of a key fob repeater from being able to take your Cat


Adding a tilt sensor to the factory alarm is perfect for letting you know when someone is trying to tow your car away. We know they are putting them in neutral and hooking them up to a tow truck with out our knowledge, this will help alert you. It can be tied into the factory alarm.

GPS trackers:

There are a ton of options out there. Find one that you like and use it. May help with a faster recovery of a theft.

Aftermarket Alarm systems:

Our alarms are not the greatest, so an aftermarket alarm can boost the deterrence of your car and better alert you to theft.

Kill switch:

Easy to install and hide in a location you want. Can remove battery power, ignition power, or starter power.
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This was recommended by @HemiMetal and also seconded by @Chroode so I will add it here...


If you can, upgrade to the autolock X for two features it holds over the red version. The lock cylinder on the X is manufactured from hardened nickel making it tougher to defeat by drilling. The X also comes with laser cut keys making the lock mechanism harder to pick. The laser cut keys have a series of round indents as opposed to traditional keys with tooth cut edges.
Can be used on both the Clutch and Brake pedals depending on if you're manual or auto - prevents the pedal from being depressed

Also some additional good info in this thread as well: Durango Hellcat stolen
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If you are super worried about this then my suggestion would be to just go full out and go this route with one (or more) of your wheels. You're not driving away with these and will make it much harder to tow off too. TWL400 - TRIMAX Locks (this one is for smaller wheels but you get the idea at least).

But, not to be a butt head, but the #1 thing I think people can do is to just do everything possible to park your car in a garage over night. I know not everyone has this luxury but if you can afford a nearly $100K (or even $50K for a used 15) car I also make the assumption you have the means to a livable situation that would allow for this. Those options aren't always available and if such take the added precautions already stated above and make sure you have good insurance. For insurance I would also be pushing for deemed value in your policy so if it does get stolen you aren't fighting with the insurance company on value.
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This is a multi pin plug that acts similar to a kill switch. The company is very well known. The car acts normal until someone tries to start it with out the plug installed. This is a bit more expensive, and will need to be installed by a pro. This will prevent use of a key fob repeater from being able to take your Cat
Just one note on the Ravelco which is an excellent system from what I've read while researching it years ago. If you have an A8, installing the Ravelco will nullify the remote start option. Of course I would rather lose remote start than the Hellcat itself...
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But, not to be a butt head, but the #1 thing I think people can do is to just do everything possible to park your car in a garage over night. I know not everyone has this luxury but if you can afford a nearly $100K (or even $50K for a used 15) car I also make the assumption you have the means to a livable situation that would allow for this. Those options aren't always available and if such take the added precautions already stated above and make sure you have good insurance. For insurance I would also be pushing for deemed value in your policy so if it does get stolen you aren't fighting with the insurance company on value.
I don’t disagree with you, but when cars are stolen while you are out to eat, at the store, at a marriage retreat, or just when you wanna take it on a couple day road trip for a Track Day somewhere, a garage isn’t an option.
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I don’t disagree with you, but when cars are stolen while you are out to eat, at the store, at a marriage retreat, or just when you wanna take it on a couple day road trip for a Track Day somewhere, a garage isn’t an option.
Agree, but those are more rare situations. Most of these cars are taken from people at their home sitting in the driveway or apt parking lot. Professional car thieves don't take unnecessary risk and will generally target easy targets. The other most common places of auto theft is a someones place of business and hotel parking lots.

At the end of the day your best way to avoid theft is to not be any easy target. At home that means parking inside. When out (work, travel, etc) park in high traffic, well lit places and then take the added security of a mechanical lock. I prefer wheel boots as they are obvious (a deterrent). I personally think most electronic devices are more for piece of mind vs actual theft avoidance as they do absolutely nothing for tow and go situations and unless you know about the theft immediately, by the time you realize your car is gone it's already either parted out or in a condition you don't want it back in.

For me it goes:
  • Locked up at night indoors when possible
  • When you can't do this make it a hard target. Well lit, high traffic areas with a mechanical lock.
  • Good insurance
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I don’t disagree with you, but when cars are stolen while you are out to eat, at the store, at a marriage retreat, or just when you wanna take it on a couple day road trip for a Track Day somewhere, a garage isn’t an option.
That's the delineation I think Frosty is making between thefts of opportunity and planned thefts. A theft of opportunity defends better with securing your Hellcat with some of the OTC devices we have discussed here and on other threads. A theft of opportunity relies on chance, speed, and ease of theft. Make things even a little difficult for the thief and he or she likely moves on to an easier target.

A planned theft usually involves more sophisticated means such as hacking the OBD II port, or rolling in a flatbed or tow truck for a hook n' go theft. The thief or thieves have seen your car parked in the same location for days or weeks and know your pattern (when you leave, when you return). At that point, garaging your vehicle becomes the best deterrent against a planned theft. Outta sight, outta mind.
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My protection against theft is excellent insurance. If a thief really want's my car they can have it. Most of these theft prevention measures are too expensive, a pain in the ass, or both. I spent $12 on a couple of those signal blocker pouches and that's about as far as I'm willing to be bothered.
I bought the signal blocker case and the other keys are stored without the batteries in my house.

I never thought of the wheel lock/boot device shown above. Looks like the ones you see on "parking wars". 200.00 is cheap insurance I guess.
Don't forget about the neutral pull cover for A8's courtesy of @TailHappy
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Don't forget about the neutral pull cover for A8's courtesy of @TailHappy
yes sir bought one of those as well as a OBD2 lock out but as said above that wont stop a flat bed and even a wheel boot wont stop a set of dollies rolling it up onto aforementioned flat bed. But these things will deter them,

what we need to come up with is a Starr connector block making the ability to clone a key with a laptop impossible.
@HemiMetal What was that lock device you had that goes on the clutch pedal (for those that row their own gears) and goes to the steering wheel? That would be a good deterrent for those opportunity times.
@HemiMetal What was that lock device you had that goes on the clutch pedal (for those that row their own gears) and goes to the steering wheel? That would be a good deterrent for those opportunity times.
I posted it for him, 2nd post in the thread (y)
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@HemiMetal What was that lock device you had that goes on the clutch pedal (for those that row their own gears) and goes to the steering wheel? That would be a good deterrent for those opportunity times.
I posted it for him, 2nd post in the thread (y)
I've been using Autolocks for about 35 years and they're solid devices. The one I use on my cat is the same one I've been using for the last 15 years on other vehicles I've owned and they're really quick to lock and unlock. Takes only a few seconds or less. Notice that I have s small padded bathroom mat under the Autolock claw. This will protect your carpet or floor mat from flattening out over time. I later wrapped rescue tape over the metal arm of the clutch pedal to prevent the autolock from scraping the paint .
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If you've never used one before, it can create a moment of anxiety the first time you try to unlock it and the key won't turn. Just means you've overtightened the locking rod. Here's a FAQ from the AutoLock website and it's what I do when the lock barrel won't turn. I simply pull the handle and lift upwards slightly and usually that releases the locking pin. I don't find it necessary to use WD40 as suggested.

What should I do if my key won't turn or the Autolock becomes stuck on my vehicle?
  • In the unlikely event that your Autolock has been over tightened, and is now difficult to remove, Please spray the Autolock's moving parts and key hole thoroughly with a spray lubricant similar to WD-40. Then push down on the Autolock foot peg with your right foot, while lifting up on the Autolock’s handle with your left hand and turning the key with your right hand. This should release the pressure on the locking mechanism’s internal pin, and the Autolock should release freely! REMEMBER - DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE AUTOLOCK!!
Still have questions? Call 1-877-228-8656 and follow the prompts.

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Here's an image of the laser cut key. Supposedly impossible or at least extremely difficult to duplicate, or pick the lock.
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De pin the OBD2 plug and cap the wires and tie wrap up. I have a cat coming and will be doing this along with more then one kill switch.

If you need service just put the connector back on. Remember to disconnect the battery before doing this.

Robert
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yes sir bought one of those as well as a OBD2 lock out but as said above that wont stop a flat bed and even a wheel boot wont stop a set of dollies rolling it up onto aforementioned flat bed. But these things will deter them,

what we need to come up with is a Starr connector block making the ability to clone a key with a laptop impossible.
I've thought about this too. First thought would be potting the connector like is done with PCB boards, but then you wouldn't ever be able to use the connector. Second thought is some sort of lock box. Still working that one out.
De pin the OBD2 plug and cap the wires and tie wrap up. I have a cat coming and will be doing this along with more then one kill switch.

If you need service just put the connector back on. Remember to disconnect the battery before doing this.

Robert
Seems like pulling the fuel pump fuse would be much easier, just as effective and easier to put back together if the goal is to prevent drive away theft.
I'm taking my Redeye to a local garage and seeing if we can disconnect the neutral pull cable from the trans. Have no idea if this is possible, but it's worth a shot. I will take my chances that I never have to do a "no power" tow.. For the long term winter storage, I have a gutted fuel pump relay going in the fuse power distribution box.
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I have found that this is a 100% fix and deterrant.
Bicycle handlebar Bicycle frame Bicycle fork Trigger Bicycle tire

A Model 29 Smith & Wesson. Requires some vigilance but I have never met 1 person that won't do EXACTLY what you tell them, with a 29 in their face or mouth.
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You de pin to prevent someone not just a thief from creating a new key. As for kill switches and pulling relays they are good too. Each items is preventing a different scenario. There are a few simple sensors on all modern cars that if they are disconnected no one is driving off. Towing is a different matter.

Robert
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