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I ended up having my dealer remove the tires, balance the rims alone, then replace the DRs. No more shake and I've had them over 150mph. I can definitely confirm that dragrcr has a great idea.
I am going to bump this thread because I am finding out that not all tires can always be done this way. But with modern manufacturing process most can. Recently I have run into a Problem with Mickey Thompson ET STREET R 305/45R17 having a bad lot or bad batch in my opinion. I have had about 10 sets of the 305/45R18's which are a bigger tire and I was able to run 9 sets without any problems. The one Set was out of round as measured with a dial indicator and were immediately replaced. Now I just got 4 new 305/45R17's and 3 out of the 4 are taking excessive weight. Mounted the first set and took a test drive (with the rim nuetral balanced). Car was shaking at any speed above 65 and it was real bad at 100 mph. So I took them down and the one was asking for 8 OZ of weight on the nuetral balanced wheel. And, the other was asking for 1 OZ. So I brought the other 2 tires down and they removed the 8OZer and tried the next one. Needed 5.25 OZ and the next one wanted 4.75 OZ. It sucks. I can't see how I could go through 18, 305/45R18's and not have a problem and then this? And MT is now being pissy about replacing them.

The problem is exactly what you described. I will be out of town at a race and by the 6th run the tires will start to shake violently. If all their tires had needed 5-8 OZ of weight all along I would have knurled bead seats or beadlocks by now. But they don't. So now I am in a pickle. What sucks is I just ordered and recieved 4 new Weld RTS Wheels to convert my whole program over to 17" ET STREET R's. Without Bead Seat knurling.

Not long ago I had Two 305/45R18 Nitto NT 555R's mounted on nuetral balanced Wheels and then trim balanced after the tires were mounted. Guess how much weight they took? One took 1/2 OZ and they other took 1/4 OZ. And that is a big honking tire as well with a LOT of rubber etc.
 

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Hey guys,

Got some great info from the site, time to get off the sidelines and jump in the game for the big win and start contibuting....

Situation:
given
  1. 2015 Hellcat (build 3999, April 10, 2015), M6, Barton shifter, Powerstops, diff brace
  2. Everything else stock, CDV valve still installed to reduce drive train shock loading
Mission:
  1. 60' times <1.8sec
  2. 0-60mph <3.7sec
  3. 1/4 times consistent low 11's
  4. don't blow anything up (all eyes on the driveshaft)
Execution:

Installed 305 555R's on stock rims and dropped 0.5 sec (4.9 Pirelli Summers to 4.4 Nitto 555R's) off 0-60mph times on the street, with roads that have a heavy concentration of aggregate (stones, Fl heat kills the tar).
  1. Install 18X10 Bravado's wrapped with 305/45/18 MTs ET Street R's
  2. Head to track, turn up the juice and see what shakes loose
Anyway, that is the background. I just received the tire/wheel combo (no TPMS) from Summit mounted and balanced.
Their tech guys recommended mounting the tire with the tack (I didn't think to ask what they were using, but another phone call to them will answer that question) and doing a tire/wheel balance.

Since this is close to their billionth system they put together, I deferred to their judgment, with the caveat that I'll keep a close eye on tire slippage and balance.

It took a bunch of weight to balance the rotating assemblies. You can see the tack on the tire/rim interface. Pix below.

I'll update when I get these to the track, hopefully sooner rather than later...

R,

Earl

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