I was always told wait 1 month before waxing to let paint cure. I would think whatever you plan to do would be the same.
Come on and move south to the coast in South Carolina like everyone else had done from up north... Lots of transplants in my area...good place to live. Summer tires all year long!View attachment 27517 My first day. 2hr drive in this crap
Im from Rock Hill,SC ( 20 min south of you) but moved just a bit more tropical about 12 years ago. Thought you were from up north like all the folks talking about putting the cat to sleep for the winter... Your almost have all year summer tire weatherI live in Charlotte. That was our 1 day of snow for the year. Plus, its not a submarine.
No hibernating for me. Hellcats and Harleys all year longIm from Rock Hill,SC ( 20 min south of you) but moved just a bit more tropical about 12 years ago. Thought you were from up north like all the folks talking about putting the cat to sleep for the winter... Your almost have all year summer tire weather.
That advice is accurate for refinish materials... however factory OEM paint is thermocured (baked) at a much higher temperature than a body shop can do since there are no other materials on the body to be concerned about (e.g. wiring harnesses, rubber/plastic/vinyl parts, etc.).Wait a month before applying a clear bra or coating of any sort. The paint needs to release chemicals naturally. I run a body shop so I know a thing or two about this.
I did a quick Goggle search of some of those brands as see some clear coat specs say no wax till 120 days...Factory OEM paint is provided by paint manufacturers like Axalta (formerly Dupont), PPG, Spies Hecker etc... It is the paint manufacturers who set up these rules. It still takes times for the agents in the paint to release. The temperature at which the paint is cured is about the same at a body shop vs manufacturing plant. If you apply more heat than is suggested by the paint manufacturer you can have a solvent pop issue.
It really depends on exactly what brand of paint Dodge uses and the grade of paint they used. 7 weeks from the build date should be plenty of time though. Anything over 30 days and you are good.I did a quick Goggle search of some of those brands as see some clear coat specs say no wax till 120 days...
I 3M'd and waxed mine at exactly 7 weeks from build date.. Should have gone a bit longer I guess?
Are you storing your car for winter? If It is your 2nd car and you will not be driving it the winter I would do nothing but wash it as so much prep needs to be done just prior to a top coat or bra for that matter. IMO. anything you do now will need to be redone in the spring.This is good info. So for me it means waiting for spring unless I'm lucky enough not to have snow in the next 30 days. Won't drive it in salted roads. I will however be taking the car straight from the dealer to the detail shop. So what should I have them do just have them polish and finish with glaze and no sealer until spring? I plan on keeping it graged and with a cover on through winter.
Thanks soundman. Yes it will get stored for that very reason don't want stone chips of anykind. I have the mopar rock guards and that will get out on with different brake pads when I pick her up next week. As for the rest, It all depends on what the weather does it end of Nov if there is now snow then possible I will do the paint coating and clear bra. I just want to give it the 30 plus days just to be safe. Sorry to hear about the rim! Have to really know the shop doing it has the right machine and experience how to use it to not chip or mar the surface. There are a lot of wheel repair people these days that know how to fix them so you can't tell they have been repaired.Are you storing your car for winter? If It is your 2nd car and you will not be driving it the winter I would do nothing but wash it as so much prep needs to be done just prior to a top coat or bra for that matter. IMO. anything you do now will need to be redone in the spring.
Just don't get any rock chips and you will be fine...Don't forget about rock guards and or clear bra in that area behind the wheel as these cars require something in that area, It was blue tape for me behind the wheels and on the front prior to my clear bra and rock guards.
However after all of that a tire guy chips my rim!
Correct. However, the OEM supplied paint systems have a different chemistry than refinish materials; you cannot equate what is published about body shop paint and the facts surrounding factory applied paint.Factory OEM paint is provided by paint manufacturers like Axalta (formerly Dupont), PPG, Spies Hecker etc...
That is not what I have been told by folks who work with the OEM suppliers and are fully aware of the parameters for application and curing. In fact, a great many manufacturers apply paint protection film to key areas of their vehicles within hours of the paint having been thermo-cured and have zero problems as a result. Dealers and car care professionals routinely apply paint protection products to new vehicles prior to or immediately following delivery without incident.It is the paint manufacturers who set up these rules. It still takes times for the agents in the paint to release. The temperature at which the paint is cured is about the same at a body shop vs manufacturing plant. If you apply more heat than is suggested by the paint manufacturer you can have a solvent pop issue.
My 2014 Subaru WRX had lots of film protection from the factory on the sides / wheel area for rocks... I would think that was done right after paint? So who knows? I would play it safe and give it some time but looks like Subaru don't care...Correct. However, the OEM supplied paint systems have a different chemistry than refinish materials; you cannot equate what is published about body shop paint and the facts surrounding factory applied paint.
That is not what I have been told by folks who work with the OEM suppliers and are fully aware of the parameters for application and curing. In fact, a great many manufacturers apply paint protection film to key areas of their vehicles within hours of the paint having been thermo-cured and have zero problems as a result. Dealers and car care professionals routinely apply paint protection products to new vehicles prior to or immediately following delivery without incident.
I have no motivation to mislead anyone when it comes to this; as a professional protective coating installer I would be liable for repairing any damage resulting from the coating being applied to an uncured finish.